[Folsom]

Stereo subwoofers is totally the way to go. I think it might even be wise to have a setup like this with low playing speakers. Frankly I think some speakers that go fairly low but do it poorly. They lack impact, they suffer at the low end. I refer mostly to speakers that either are not line arrays or a serious 8 inch (some kind of decent Xmax) driver incorperated, and the such.

Fun fun! I am excited for when they break in, and the amps they are on brake in . Later I will mod the amps some, new capacitors, resistors in signal area, power cord, and maybe some fast diodes.

[warnerwh]

Looking good What is your design for the subs and speakers?

[Folsom]

The speakers are B20s in two cubic foot boxes with Piezos on the back. I cut the whizzer cones off the B20s. I also coated the B20s and Piezos with damar (if you leave this out you will never understand why some people are impressed with B20s). The Piezos have a cap on them to high pass and a resistor across the terminals to tune them down a little. There is also some dampening material inside of the boxes.

The subwoofers are roughly 144L or like 5ish cubic feet inside, I would have to open winISD. They are just some fairly inexpensive Dayton DVC 12 inches... Although they sound good already! The fact the little MCM amps only put out 150wRMS makes their 120wRMS perfect. It is more than enough for music. I plan to upgrade the amps later with capacitors, resistors, and stuff like that. Tuning is about 28hz I believe. (winISD have to go through it again). The amp has a small bass boost at 35hz which sort of annoys me but whatever I guess I do not hear it.

I would never recommend only 7mm Xmax for home theatre. I would also not recommend subwoofers ment to do some stereo image, facing you (mostly towards you). Home theatre requires massive Xmax, huge rubber surround, and 200+wRMS to even get serious (not that stereo would be bad, but they would probably be in the corner and not ear level. These however to integrate into my stereo will never even come to 120wRMS with the gain setting. That is ok though because it gets silly loud anyhow, more than I could need. 94db sensitive subwoofers with 90-93db speakers (not idea what they are with Piezo ontop of the 90db from Pioner) = loud enough for me!

The Sharp is heavily modified. If you want yours done shoot me a PM, I can assure you they bring it to life are what the rave was about. There is relatively low image quality before modifications etc...

I might try putting the subwoofers inside of the speakers, I hear good things. I also liked it when I used a small subwoofer. The problem is I need to make a rack so I can use my turntable haha... Plus it needs some isolation now for sure!

I need to vauum too.

[Folsom]

I moved them to the inside and the soundstage seems to be ok... They are slightly farther back than the other speakers. I suspect though that because of the very length waves they produce that phase is not an issue with a matter of inches, when the waves are measured in feet. In order to change that situation I am not sure what to do, to keep the main speakers being able to "see" eachother.

Sound test not performed yet...

[Folsom]

Sounds better

[warnerwh]

The Dayton DVC subs aren't bad especially considering the cost. The RS series happen to be excellent subs but do cost more. 

Here's a home theater sub I did for a friend. It will be receiving two SS RL-P15d4s:


He's going to put granite on top and finish the outside himself. I just designed and built it. The box is built from 13 ply baltic birch to save weight. It's still pretty heavy though. Baffle is triple thick or the equivalent of at least 4" of mdf. The 8" port is 29" long and tuned to 16.3hz or so. When I go up there I will measure it.

For music though the DVC subs you're using are fine. With two I'm sure they're alot better for HT than alot of commercial subs are. That doesn't include the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

[Folsom]

No picture showing .

The DVC's are actually really musical! I am pretty happy about them. I was not sure if they would be good or not. Well I can say they sure are pretty nice, but just for music.

If I were to make a home theatre subwoofer it would be more like what you describe.

[warnerwh]

Are you saying you can't see the picture I posted? I can see it. That's weird. Maybe if you go here:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php4?attachmentid=8810

The Dayton drivers test as good as drivers that are much more expensive, sometimes many multiples of more cost. I'm sure your bass must be very good and plenty adequate power wise.  For what you have invested, not including your time, they're a super bargain. 

Alot of people have used the Dayton DVC drivers for subs and all have been quite happy with them.  At my house one of your subs would be adequate for our home theater. I live with two females and they're hearing is much better than mine. That and they don't like the sound too loud for them. It can be a bummer on some movies.  That's why some movies I know they wouldn't like I just watch by myself after they go to bed.

[Folsom]

Yeah that link works.

I will watch a movie some time on these, probably minus a reciever, just via computer. I am not so sure about home theatre because of things like Fight Club with the airplane type intense scenes (not sure if it is bass heavy, but there is stuff out there that intense and bass heavy).