Agree with Don, treat the room first. BTW highly directional speakers would help. Most designers go for wide dispersion to increase soundstage, but they interact more with the room. By directional speakers I'm thinking of front loaded horns, larger (8-inch) extended range drivers, and dipole designs (like the AMT tweeter above, planars, or open baffles).
Agree with the Squeeze Box route, if you're halfway computer savy. I'm not, and am part of a local network I can't control, so I had to give it up. But ripped music is the future, it provides high quality and convenience for cheap. You can start out with just a SB ($300 for the wireless version), power amp, and speakers (like I had, the SB has it's own volume control plus it connects to internet audio streaming). Then add a pre-amp and DAC down the road, or have the SB modded, to enhance the sound. If networking and being tied to a PC doesn't work for you, for 3 times the price Olive sells basically the same thing, but it includes a CDP and hard disk to replace the PC (except you still need a PC for the internet radio it offers).
Mapletree seems like a no brainer in your case. When selecting amps and speakers I start with two considerations, amp damping and combined output. Tube amps typically exhibit poor damping characteristics, in other words bass (especially deep bass) gets flabby (exagerated and uncontrolled). This is where limited bass response of the speakers and use of a powered subwoofer can be most beneficial. My rule of thumb for combined power is to keep the rated speaker efficiency plus amp gain at 105 dB or higher. Amp gain goes like this: 1 watt = 0 dB; 2 watts = 3 dB; 4 watts = 6 dB; 10 watts = 10 dB; 20 watts = 13 dB; 40 watts = 16 dB; 100 watts = 20 dB (see the pattern?). So an 89 dB/w/m speaker would need 40 wpc while a 95 dB/w/m speaker only needs 10 wpc.
Regarding speakers:
I've never liked Dynaudio speakers, but perhaps I've never heard them properly fed. IMO they're hard to drive (need lots of power and exhibit low impedance, really bad for most tube amps), are not dynamic (to be expected of inefficient designs using small woofers), have constipated bass (typical of many European designs), and are tipped way into the analytical (great for picking nits in the recording studio) versus musical (emotional enjoyment) scale. Most published reviews indicate the best results with Dynaudio speakers are acheived with 150 wpc or more of solid state power.
OTOH Fostex extended/full range drivers are tube friendly, relatively efficient, musical, and affordable. The Omega Super 3 (see vendor circle below) is a standmount from a wonderful guy, has great workmanship, and does amazing things with just a (secretly modded) $37 4-inch Fostex driver. For a couple hundreds bucks more you can extend the bass and go with the Super 3 XRS small floorstanders. By all means talk to Louis first before buying Omega.
Bob Brines offers very affordable plans, panelized kits, unfinshed assembled cabinets, or fully completed versions of a couple of different designs that use larger Fostex drivers. His transmission line based speakers provide strong bass response and his website can give you headaches as he tries to explain the math behind the Martin King transmission line MathCad design.
The Cain and Cain Abby is a tall, narrow design of impecable workmanship that uses a choice of two nice Fostex drivers. This speaker is wonderful for small ensemble musical forms and human voice.
If you're open to DIY Fostex has recommended enclosures for many of their drivers that are deceptively simple looking (perform beyond expectations).
But there are many possibilities. For example the DeCapo i (see A/C circle below) is distributed in Canada and has no crossover between the woofer and amp (and the tweeter has only a capacitor to protect it). It is about 92 dB/w/m efficient and well liked.
Good hunting and have fun.
