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BTW the D stands for discrete (a no chip design). Confusing, hey?
Hi Michael,QuoteDIY-1013HS2x windowed cutouts per side measure 4" (101.6mm) long by 2" (50.8mm) tall with .5" 12.7mm) radiused corners.This would be a 'snug' fit for my GB150D 150Watt amp modules, one for each window. Great for a 4 channel Class AB ( e.g. Orion) However, for Class A operation, the GB150D needs all the heatsinking on one side for the continuous 112W of dissipation. To enable that we would need to cut out the rib and screw a pair of MOSFETs to each heatsink on that side with the join down the middle. however, this is not good thermally, unless the two heatsinks have intimate thermal contact to eliminate edge rise. Perhaps the inner fin of both heatsinks mate effectively over their surface area to ensure even temperature under these conditions? greg
DIY-1013HS2x windowed cutouts per side measure 4" (101.6mm) long by 2" (50.8mm) tall with .5" 12.7mm) radiused corners.
Quote from: amplifierguru on 12 Jan 2007, 08:49 pmHi Michael,QuoteDIY-1013HS2x windowed cutouts per side measure 4" (101.6mm) long by 2" (50.8mm) tall with .5" 12.7mm) radiused corners.This would be a 'snug' fit for my GB150D 150Watt amp modules, one for each window. Great for a 4 channel Class AB ( e.g. Orion) However, for Class A operation, the GB150D needs all the heatsinking on one side for the continuous 112W of dissipation. To enable that we would need to cut out the rib and screw a pair of MOSFETs to each heatsink on that side with the join down the middle. however, this is not good thermally, unless the two heatsinks have intimate thermal contact to eliminate edge rise. Perhaps the inner fin of both heatsinks mate effectively over their surface area to ensure even temperature under these conditions? gregGreg,Unfortunately the fins don't mate end-to-end like this. The base of the heatsinks can butt up against eachother, but that's it.
Hi Mike,I too am looking in to building Greg's 300D amp. Here's the rub.Right now, I'm attempting to source a heatsink for the 300D with the HS lying on its side: almost 12 long, by 3.5 high, by 3 deep. So here are my four questions.:1. If I ccan only get the HS at 12 inches long, can the case be made 12.25 deep?2. Can the left and right panels of the case be left out so the HS can be mounted there?3. If it's 3.5 inches inside, does that mean then the HS will have to be 3-7/16th or 3.5 to fit under the top plate?4. Your cutout for the IEC connector, can it be anywhere on the back panel, or do you stick it in 1 particular spot?Regards,Ray
Ray,1. All of the chassis parts are pre-fabricated, so I'm unable to move the locations of any of the hardware. 2. I could give you only a small ($5) discount if the side panels were not included in your order. The front face plate overlaps each side of the chassis by 1/4", which hides some of the heatsink. I'm not sure how well this would work though, considering the side panels are installed with PEM nuts which are used to secure the rear panel also.3. The inside dimensions of the chassis are a hair over 3.5 inches, so that means a 3.5 heatsink would just be able to fit.4. The IEC connector is located on the upper left of the back panels, or you can order a rear panel without a cutout.
Hi again,ok, no problem for Numbers 1 and 2.What are Pem Nuts?Now does each side panel have a lip on the back and front so each back and front panels attach to the side panel that way. What I'm asking is is there no lips on either front or back panel. I plan to just slide the heatsinks in to place, and drill and tap a hole in to the HS using the existing holes in both front and back panels. I will also then drill and using self tapping screws secure the HS to the bottom and tops of the case accordingly.On number 4, no way that hole could be move to the center of the back panel?Ray
Quote from: Ray Bronk on 20 Jan 2007, 05:13 amRay,On the first page of this thread there are pictures of the rear, front and side panels. Take particular note of the picture with the caption. "Closeup detail of the side panel and face panel joint." This shows how the front and side panels integrate and there is also a front panel bracket. I think you can manage integrating the heatsinks as side panels to the top, bottom and front panels, but the rear panel is blank and it has flanges that overlap from the side panels. You can still mate your heatsink to this rear panel without much trouble though. Simply countersink and tap for #8-32 machine screw. Use a longer screw and it would go through the PEM nut and into the heatsink. PEM nuts are self-clinching nuts which are used on thin material thicknesses.Hi Mike,Sorry to do this to you, but I am a person who is totally blind. That is the reason I asked the questions. So I can't see the pictures.Isn't the back panel also secured from the bottom too? If the HS is 12 long, and the inside of the case is 12 deep, with a flange on the back panel to secure the side panel, there could be a problem?Ray
Ray,On the first page of this thread there are pictures of the rear, front and side panels. Take particular note of the picture with the caption. "Closeup detail of the side panel and face panel joint." This shows how the front and side panels integrate and there is also a front panel bracket. I think you can manage integrating the heatsinks as side panels to the top, bottom and front panels, but the rear panel is blank and it has flanges that overlap from the side panels. You can still mate your heatsink to this rear panel without much trouble though. Simply countersink and tap for #8-32 machine screw. Use a longer screw and it would go through the PEM nut and into the heatsink. PEM nuts are self-clinching nuts which are used on thin material thicknesses.
Quote from: mwoods on 20 Jan 2007, 04:20 pmQuote from: Ray Bronk on 20 Jan 2007, 05:13 amRay,On the first page of this thread there are pictures of the rear, front and side panels. Take particular note of the picture with the caption. "Closeup detail of the side panel and face panel joint." This shows how the front and side panels integrate and there is also a front panel bracket. I think you can manage integrating the heatsinks as side panels to the top, bottom and front panels, but the rear panel is blank and it has flanges that overlap from the side panels. You can still mate your heatsink to this rear panel without much trouble though. Simply countersink and tap for #8-32 machine screw. Use a longer screw and it would go through the PEM nut and into the heatsink. PEM nuts are self-clinching nuts which are used on thin material thicknesses.Hi Mike,Sorry to do this to you, but I am a person who is totally blind. That is the reason I asked the questions. So I can't see the pictures.Isn't the back panel also secured from the bottom too? If the HS is 12 long, and the inside of the case is 12 deep, with a flange on the back panel to secure the side panel, there could be a problem?Ray Ray,That's no problem.. Yes the top and bottom panels are also flanged and are used to secure the rear panel. The inside dimension here is two material thicknesses under 12" which would mean you'd have to shave off about 4mm of material from the heatsinks.-Michael Woods
Michael,I just received the 1712-HS enclosure after a short wait for the mailing. I've used other high quality aluminum enclosures in the past and this one surpasses them all. The parts are flawless and the anodizing in beautiful. Its quality is equal to the best that Lansing offers, but the design is better. Also, Lansing doesn't offer heatsinks or thick front panels. The front panel is perfectly brushed and substantial. The heatsink quality is first rate as well. All in all, well worth the asking price. For quite some time we could build audio half kits that had amazing sound quality, but most of us were a little limited regarding the quality of the box. Michael's enclosures will give your first-rate electronics a first-rate home.A note: The solid base sides of the two side-mounted heat sinks will fit flush against each other. Although the end fins won't have contact, the bases will provide some continuity for heat dissipation for center mounting devices. I plan to enhance that base interface with a little thermal paste. It looks like it should be adequate, I guess I'll find out soon...
Hi,I just wanted to let everyone know that I have sold out of the heatsink versions. I won't have them available again until I can re-order parts to replenish my entire stock. They also need a redesign so that they can be more efficient and easier to use. I don't think that the design should change much. The future design will include the drill and taps for mounting, so that you are no longer required to make that operation yourself. I am pretty sure that milling the heatsink such that it becomes an integrated side panel, would be too expensive to implement. I think the best profile is going to be more efficient than the last, but it should still be as universal as possible.Besides the heatsink versions, how interested would everyone be in a HD "heavy duty" version? Where all the panels would be at least 2mm thick. I first went with the thinner panels, because I know that a lot of you out there have methods for damping the panels if necessary, and would rather have a less expensive and great looking chassis, than having an expensive tank of a chassis.
