Can I use a D27TG35-06 in the SE-2?

Swede · « **on:** 27 Jun 2003, 08:53 pm »

I have an existing speaker pair using the same woofer as the SE-2 and a similar tweeter (D27TG35-06). It's the same except for a non-bulged faceplate. Can I substitute this?

Also, my P17WJ is an 8 ohm version. I was hoping to simply buy another one and create an MTM. Does the design use 4 or 8 ohm?

Aaand... one more ? - What quality of inductors are used (wire gauge)? What is an approximate cost for the xover parts?

Thanks!
Ian

rwalton · « **Reply #1 on:** 28 Jun 2003, 04:17 am »

Hello Swede,

I have built the SE-2's, so I can answer at least some of your questions. Mike will probably chime in on the rest of them.

Mike's design uses the 8 ohm version. This is documented in the plans, but I assume you don't have them yet.... correct? With paralleled mid woofs, they need to be 8 ohms, otherwise the impedance would be really low once they are connected in parallel.

The quality of the inductors (gauge) is specified in the plans. I believe they are all 14 ga, and one of them is 16 ga. - all air core type. Mike does recommend sticking to these gauges so that your inductors have the same DCR as his design. Of course, it's your speaker, so you can do whatever you want, but the outcome may not necessarily be better if you use different gauge inductors.

The cost will be largely a function of the choice of components you choose. The capacitors will affect the overall price the most. I used Solen caps and coils from Madisound. I think they are in line with the quality of the drivers and a good middle of the road choice. You might consider bypassing some of the caps if you are really adventurous. This was my first DIY speaker, so I didn't do that.

If you build them, I think you will be very pleased with the sound for the investment. To me, they do have one drawback. They are quite deep (17 inches IIRC). If your room is small and you want/need to keep them away from the front wall, they will be pretty far into your listening space.

Mike's support is awesome and as long as the cabinet depth isn't an issue, I think you'll be really pleased.

Good Luck!

Rick

Swede · « **Reply #2 on:** 29 Jun 2003, 11:47 pm »

Rick,

Thanks for the info. What did it cost you for the crossover parts?

rwalton · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 Jun 2003, 01:52 am »

Hi Swede,

Crossover parts (just caps, inductors and resistors) for a stereo pair cost me about $85US. I didn't go overboard on the parts quality, but I didn't buy cheap stuff either. Of course this doesn't include a huge list of miscellaneous parts: wire, connectors, binding posts, heat shrink, screws, glue, wood, sandpaper, Dacron stuffing, solder, wire ties, tools, paint etc. Since I built them from scratch, I spent just under $500US. However, this includes purchase of a few tools and number of things that weren't completely consumed in the process (solder, connectors, sandpaper, paint, glue etc.). I hope this helps.

Rick

Shamrock Audio · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 Jun 2003, 05:41 pm »

Hi guys,

You may have to change the cut-out dimensions, but you should be able to use the tweeter. I haven't done a direct comparison, but I don't see a big difference that would cause huge problems.

Rick did a good job of answering your other questions so I won't comment. He's also right about the depth of the cabinet being a potential problem.

I didn't get your cabinet shipped last week, Rick. It's done and ready to go whenever I get the thing shipped. It may be worthwhile offering it as an option for those who intend to use the SE-2 with subs.