EFE speakers, tweeter resistors, and the Pioneer Elite 47TX

Larkston Zinaspic · « **on:** 25 Jun 2003, 02:30 am »

This is my first post, so I'll try to be succinct.

I recently purchased the T-36 made by Ed Frias, and the Pioneer Elite 47TX, based largely on Ed's recommendation for compatibility. The problem is, I am getting very loud, almost shrill trebles from this combination, and I'm not completely sure what is the culprit. I am suspicious that it is the 47TX, because I A/B'd it with a Kenwood receiver, and while the latter unit is approximately 10x cheaper, it seemed to have a more filled out sound and had more relaxed trebles than the 47TX.

As a possible solution, Ed has been kind enough to send me some additional resistors (on their way now) to alter the tone of my speakers. I feel a little odd about this, because Ed tunes his speakers to have a flat response before they leave his shop--won't I be changing the response of the speakers?

I'm on the verge of saying screw it to all the detective work and just ordering some Odyssey monoblocks to iron out my sound. Ed advised that I should be patient, since that may be an expensive way to find out that this is not my problem. What do you all think? Any and all comments are welcome.

Pez · « **Reply #1 on:** 25 Jun 2003, 02:56 am »

let the speakers break in. Most speakers sound terrible at first. Also try other amps before you buy one.

randytsuch · « **Reply #2 on:** 25 Jun 2003, 03:30 am »

I agree with Jason. (I hate it when that happens

) I would give the speakers at least 100 hours, 200 would be better to break in before making any final judgements. And if the Pioneer is brand new, it needs to break in too.

Also, remember Ed turns his speakers at his place, the speakers frequency response will be different in a different room. So, tuning the speakers to your room might be necessary, especially if its a bright room.

What's your source? The Kenwood could just be hiding source problems, and the Pioneer is letting them through.

Randy

bubba966 · « **Reply #3 on:** 25 Jun 2003, 05:42 am »

I'd guess Randy & Jason are probably right. Give TX & T-36 a good 200-250+ hours to run in.

I've had a good deal of first hand experience with the Elite receivers of the past few years. I've owned a 26TX, and now use a 39TX. And I've used a 36TX quite a bit as well. And they've not been shrill or bright. But when I've used brand new speakers on them they've sounded a bit bright. But once the speakers had a few hundred hours on them they've sounded fine.

Have you tried running it with the THX post-processing on?

I've got one CD around here that I can't listen to without running it in THX mode because it's just too shrill. It's not the speaks, or the 39TX. It's just the recording that's harsh sounding.

And if it's still shrill after 250 hours of use, Randy might've figured it out a bit. It might be that the TX & the T-36's aren't hiding anything. And that it's the recording or that the source should be changed.

TheeeChosenOne · « **Reply #4 on:** 25 Jun 2003, 05:48 am »

I'd wait and see after a good couple hundred hour break-in.

Put the speakers facing each other with some heavy blankets on them. Leave them at high volume when with some bass heavy music you go to work (as long as the neighbors won't mind of course). This will speed things up a bit.

BTW, so how's the bottom end on those babies? Spill the beans Jefe....

jackman · « **Reply #5 on:** 25 Jun 2003, 12:14 pm »

Lark,

I kind've agree with Jason on break-in (that's becoming a pattern...) but if those tweets are metal (I think they may be), don't expect the Odysseys to tame them into sweet lushness. I'm not a big fan of metal tweeters as a rule (there are certainly exceptions and this may be one) and have met a lot of people who have spent a ton of time and $$$ trying to "tame" their metal domes. They mess with wires, room treatments, positioning, etc., and find it to be more difficult than anticipated. You may want to think about a tube amp or a SS amp that is tubey sounding.

After a couple years in this hobby, I have come to the realization that I can live with some things, but overly bright speakers ain't one of 'em. Good luck and keep us posted on your results.

Jack

Larkston Zinaspic · « **Reply #6 on:** 26 Jun 2003, 02:08 am »

I've got a better idea: I think I'll let the system break in for a little while before I make a judgement. Why didn't anyone else think of that?

Thanks to everyone who replied. TCO: the bottom end is indeed quite sufficient. When a film soundtrack rolls out the bass, these babies deliver. A subwoofer at this point would just be overkill, and I think I'm already pushing my luck with the neighbors!

Randy: I'm using a Toshiba SD5700. Is that reeelly bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

randytsuch · « **Reply #7 on:** 26 Jun 2003, 04:46 am »

Hi,
I am not sure about that Toshiba, although AFAIK, Toshiba is not really known for their audio playback capabilities. The exception is some of their DVD-A stuff is supposed to be good.

It's the problem with this hobby, you upgrade one piece of equipment (or two

), and it just points to other weaknesses. After you upgrade your source, then you will have to start worrying about cables.

Seriously, I consider it important to have a good source, garbage in garbage out. But, I would also give your new toys a couple hundred hours to break in before buying anything else.

After that, if you want to spend more money, there are always people here that will help you spend it.

Randy

Larkston Zinaspic · « **Reply #8 on:** 28 Jun 2003, 01:02 pm »

Randy,

I'm sure there's a thread already up for this but, is there really a considerable difference between a $500 player and a $2000 or $4000 player, or are you just paying more for a Top-end roll off? I'd like to find a used Sony CDP-X707ES that I've been hearing so much about, but no luck there. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

8thnerve · « **Reply #9 on:** 28 Jun 2003, 05:25 pm »

Quote from: Larkston Zinaspic

Randy,

I'm sure there's a thread already up for this but, is there really a considerable difference between a $500 player and a $2000 or $4000 player, or are you just paying more for a Top-end roll off?

Randy. YES. Listen to any sub $1000 player, then go listen to an Ayre CX-7 ($3000) and a Resolution Audio Opus 21 ($3500). Don't get me wrong, sub-$1000 players have gotten very good, and a decent player with a good DAC (Scott Nixon, 47 Labs, DIO, etc.) can be great. But either of these two players may be the best Digital you've ever heard, even at their low price. I will disclaim so I don't get flamed that we sell them, but we sell them BECAUSE of how they sound!!! I chose both Res Audio and Ayre after auditioning these two players!

randytsuch · « **Reply #10 on:** 1 Jul 2003, 04:57 am »

Quote from: Larkston Zinaspic

Randy,

I'm sure there's a thread already up for this but, is there really a considerable difference between a $500 player and a $2000 or $4000 player, or are you just paying more for a Top-end roll off? I'd like to find a used Sony CDP-X707ES that I've been hearing so much about, but no luck there. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

Hi Lark,
Depends on the players

I am sure there get to be diminishing returns as you spend more money, so it depends on how much you want to spend, and how good you want your system to sound. Not much of an answer I know, but this is a very subjective hobby.

But, if you really want a good reasonably priced CDP, I would think about the lower end Sony SACD players. They are supposed to sound good for the money. I would also consider the Philips 963, which is also supposed to sound very good for the money. I have had some problems with my 1000, but I have not heard of reliability problems with the 963.

If you can, find something where you can do an in home audition, or where they have a 30 day return policy, so you can try it in your house, with your stuff, and see if you like it where it counts.

Good luck with your quest, maybe yours will end, mine never seems to.

Randy