[JeffB]

I am interested in securing the B200 driver to the baffle in such a manner that I can remove it and reinstall it.
Currently I simply used wood screws to secure it to the baffle.  I am assuming that I won't be able to unsrew the driver and then replace it in this baffle.
I suppose I could rotate the driver a bit and then screw it back in.  However, this limits the number of times I can do this.

I am using 3/4" birch plywood.  Is there anything that I can sink into the wood and then screw into that.

[Grumpy_Git]

Jeff

What you need is insert nuts such as those in the link below.

http://www.madaboutsound.com/prod_det.asp?product_id=16

Nick.

[Berndt]

I am working on this conundrum as well for the securing of spikes to a plinth.
Blind hole and all.
I ordered these from msc,

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=8217929&PMT4NO=12227114

They thread into the wood and have an internal thread to support your fastener.

[JohninCR]

Robbery!  A hardware store or specialty screw and bolt place is the place
to go.  You're looking for what is typically called T-nuts and bolts to match.
They usually have black bolts to match.  Drill the hole.  Tap the T nut in
place on the backside with a little glue (not in the hole, just under the head
of the Tnut, so it doesn't fall off with repeated removal of the bolt.).  Don't
forget the proper size drill bit and alan wrench while you're out, if you don't
already have them (extra bits for those small sizes come in handy as they tend
to break often even drilling wood). 

Also, don't worry about sealing the driver on since there's no pressure trying
to escape, and padding behind the rim of the basket to decouple it from the
baffle makes no sense since you are bolting to it.

[onemug]

JeffB,  I have the Omega A8's with the B200 driver. I have removed the driver from the cabinet a couple of times to try more/less stuffing. The wood screws still go in the same holes and fasten tight. Always start the screw by hand and you can feel it thread in properly. Don't over tighten.

[morayjames]

check out linkwits site for more information than you can probably absorb. In particular is this link to the topic of driver mounting. Regards Moray James. Scroll down about 3/4 of the page.

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers_2.htm

[oldtimer]

Have you thought about NOT seciring the driver to the baffle. I mounted mine with a magnet mount system that isolates the driver from the baffle. It gives real gains in detail, focus, and soundstage. aa

Happy Listening
Nigel

[JeffB]

A magnet mounting system sounds interesting.
Could you provide some more details?

[hurdy_gurdyman]

I'm giving serious consideration to magnet mounting my big SI coaxials on my new baffles I'm building. Because of the huge bass these are capable of, I suspect the gains from lack of baffle vibrations would be substantial. Still working out the details, but shouldn't be that difficult. I'm buying my wood next week to get started. Can hardly wait...

Dave

[oldtimer]

A magnet mounting system sounds interesting.
Could you provide some more details?

This is how I did mine. And yes it does make a difference.

Nigel

[Bob in St. Louis]

Nice idea Nigel, I saw that a few months ago. Wanted to build one myself.
A fellow would have to be pretty creative and ingenious to get that wood around the magnet on an SI Coaxial. It's made quite a bit different that your average magnet.
Dave/anybody, is the tweet made of plastic on an SI? Hard to tell from the picture. I've got several "builds" in my head for my 'soon to come' coaxials. Not sure which way I want to go, but Nigels idea has been bouncing around my head for quite awhile. I've seen so many good ideas, I've thought about building them all, one by one and switching baffles periodically. Like "changing the cloths" on my drivers.

Here's the Coaxials, and what you'd have to attach the wood to.....
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/drivers.htm

Bob

[hurdy_gurdyman]

Bob,

The back side of the tweeter has a plastic cover on it. I think the way to do a magnet mount would be to devise a clamp to go around the woofer's magnet. A wooden clamp would work.

Dave

[oldtimer]

Dave I am sure the SI would benifit more from magnet mount than the B200, due to the light steel frame thats used on the SI. The mass difference between the frame and magnet is much bigger than with the B200. The high end B&W speakers have now gone to magnet mount. They have been looking 

Nigel

[oldtimer]

Nice idea Nigel, I saw that a few months ago. Wanted to build one myself.
A fellow would have to be pretty creative and ingenious to get that wood around the magnet on an SI Coaxial. It's made quite a bit different that your average magnet.
Dave/anybody, is the tweet made of plastic on an SI? Hard to tell from the picture. I've got several "builds" in my head for my 'soon to come' coaxials. Not sure which way I want to go, but Nigels idea has been bouncing around my head for quite awhile. I've seen so many good ideas, I've thought about building them all, one by one and switching baffles periodically. Like "changing the cloths" on my drivers.

Here's the Coaxials, and what you'd have to attach the wood to.....
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/drivers.htm



Bob

Thats easy to get a magnet mount onto that. If someone would like to give the measurement of the magnet Dia. and depth, I will do a few trials for mounts. 

Nigel

[Bob in St. Louis]

Thats easy to get a magnet mount onto that. If someone would like to give the measurement of the magnet Dia. and depth, I will do a few trials for mounts. 

LOVE TO, but don't have my drivers yet....
I'd have to find a metric measuring device Nigel! 
You folks down there use a system that divides by 10. Mine's different. 
Just kidding. Dave or someone else may be able to get you those numbers. I've just got pictures at this point to look at.

Bob

[oldtimer]

Bob just give to me in imperial, and I will convert it, no probs. It looks a pretty easy job, I would just need a few more pics to get the job. when you get the drivers, take a few pics on the back, and email them to me. No waorries.

Nigel

[hurdy_gurdyman]

BTW, the pressed steel frame on these aren't as lightly built as many vintage speakers I've seen. The steel is quite thick.
I'd get the dimensions, but I'm just getting ready to leave for the day (going on a group motorcycle ride, maybe the last one of the year). If nobdy's posted them by morning, I'll go ahead and measure them.

Dave