[analog97]

Started on my Ripper.  Couldn't help but notice those pre-installed parts!!  I counted something like 25+ traces coming off that small chip!!  How in the heck is that thing installed?  I would have made a MESS of that!!  Please don't say "very carefully".  Humor me.  Thanks, I'm just most curious.

[hagtech]

I have some trained fleas that get in there to do it.  Really, it's far easier than you think, but takes a little practice before you get the hang of it.  And the RIPPER shouldn't be your first attempt! 

The idea is not to solder each lead, but to solder them all.  At the same time.  Using a tweezer and a god of solder on the iron I tack the chip into place.  Then add a solder ball to the other side.  Ok, now it's stuck in place.  Now drag a ball of solder across the entire side of the chip, like maybe 100x too much solder.  All pins are covered and shorted together.  Do the same on the other side.  Using a solder sucker, heat up portions of the solder blobs and suck them away.  It takes me typically 3 melts and vacuums per side.  This removes almost all of the solder.  What is left is a perfect joint between the lead and pad.  This tiny film of solder is what you can't suck out.  Then I do a finishing touch on each lead to remelt and clean up the residuals.

No kidding.  By hand, and using a big tip on the iron, I get near perfect soldering of these parts.  Oh yeah, you also need magnifying glasses.

jh

[analog97]

On behalf of all Ripper buyers, let me extend my thanks to either you or the trained fleas.  That looks pretty difficult, but now makes sense.  Thanks.

[analog97]

Finishing my RIPPER.  Problem with installing the headphone jack.  It doesn't seem to fit into the PCB.  The jack has 4 prongs. Front edge has 1 in the middle hole.  Back edge is the problem.  It has 3 prongs, 1 in the left rear looks fine.  The 2 prongs on the rear right are the problem.  The middle one is not centered.  It's about 3/4 of the distance to the right.  I would have to bend it and force it in the middle rear hole.  That doesn't look right to me.  Just not consistent with an easy Hag-build.  Anyone run into this?  Lemme try a little diagram of dots:

                                            .      . .  (rear prongs)
                                                .        (front prong)

[hagtech]

Oh yeah, you have to cut off the one unused prong.  Same as in HAGUSB.  The correct part is never in stock at DigiKey, so I have to specify this one.  This was supposed to be covered in the instructions.

jh

[analog97]

Thanks!!  Now what about those RIPPER diodes (the LED's).  I am assuming the long lead is + and goes in the square hole, just like the instructions say for the UFO?  Maybe that sentence could be added to the RIPPER instructions as well??

[hagtech]

Yeah, long lead is "+", square hole.

jh

[romario]

I haven't built a kit in a long time.  Looking forward to completing The Ripper.  Unfortunately, some parts are still on back order. 

Reviewing the kit instructions, I have a few questions.  My apologies if some of these are trivial, I just want to make sure that I do this right.

- For the 10uF 25V component (P11211) the manual shows 17 parts but lists only 16 designators.  Should one also be inserted into C20?

- The Switch (EG1942) shows as going into S1.  I assume that this is a typo and should be the S2 location on the PCB.

- The Pot Volume (P2T3503) lists location R35x.  I think that this should be R35, yes?

- A couple of questions about the RCA jack assembly (CP-1436).  My part looks a bit different than the one in the photo.  The #4x7/8" screw would sit too deeply into the part. There is nothing to stop it.  I will need to add several washers to the screw to keep the top of the O-terminal lined up with the grounding hole.  Also, to get the O-terminal to line up with the grounding hole, I will need to notch out the plastic case to line up with the adjacent pin.  (I understand the part about trimming the bottom to fit into the grounding hole.)  Am I missing something?

- Also the RCA jack inputs are color coded Red - Black - Red - Black (reading left to right, top to bottom.)  The case shows IN for the left pair and OUT for the right pair.  No left and right identification on the case.  The color coding doesn't match the typical Red = Right; White = Left configuration.  Am I missing something?  Are the top pair RIGHT and the bottom pair LEFT?  Is there a way to better identify them?  I may add lettering myself.

Overall, The Ripper looks like a wonderful design.  The PCB has a great layout and is well constructed.  Excellent compact case.  Sorry for all the questions. 

Thanks so much.

Romario

[hagtech]

Good review.  Yes, C20 too, should be S2, and R35 is ok.  I also noticed the latest version of manual does not have a plot of the layout.

I'll have to take a look at the quad RCA jack from digikey.  Maybe the construction is slightly different from the ones I use (gold-plated version from allelectronics).  I think digikey might have more than one version with identification colors done differently.  Maybe I can find a better part number.  Or maybe I should just include the jacks as part of the kit hardware. 

Are you having to modify the outer case?  Or just the plastic on the connector housing?

jh

[romario]

Jim ---

Thank you for the prompt reply. 

It doesn't appear that I will need to make any modifications to the Ripper's outer case to accommodate the RCA jack.  The only changes will be to the connector housing.  I will need to label RIGHT and LEFT on the case to avoid confusion.

Romario