[anal.log]

I have an original sub the one with the 12" active and 15" passive.
I've recently notice when I push in on the passive radiator say 1/2 " or so with my hand that the active speaker
pushes out as I would expect with a sealed enclosure, while holding that position on the passive I notice that the active speaker
eventually returns to it's normal position indicating I have an air leak somewhere.

My question to is how tightly sealed should my cabinet be. Is this anything to worry about? Should I take everything out and
seal everything with caulking?
 
Thanks

[warnerwh]

Brian could answer that best. I also have a New Original sub and mine does that also. I suspect music signals are so fast that our subs are fine. I know my bass is very articulate and would bet that's what would be lost if they're leaking too much air. Mine is in excellent shape and my screws are all tight.

It may be that the magnet and spider pull it back too. When we push in the passive it's very quick. Anyway I don't know for sure but I suspect all is well.

[woodsyi]

Welcome to AC anal.log.  You are not trying to live up to the name your have chosen for yourself now. Are you?  I have not tried that with my larger subs but what Warner says makes sense.  Even vitrified, I don't think the passives are supposed to be air tight.  Passive radiator is "semi" ported, right?

[J]

You might have an "air leak" around one of the drivers.  This could cause sluggish response and doubling as well as a host of other problems.

To check, simply press one of the drivers in and watch the Passive Radiator.  When one is pressed in, the other should move out, and vice versa.

The key, however is that if one is pressed in and held in, the other should also stay out, until you release.  If it slowly moves back in, then you likely have a leak and the drivers should be resealed.

[John Casler]

Actually all the VMPS Subs and woofer systems, on Main Speaker Systems, are sealed except the 626R and LRC which are ported.

It is important that the seals around the drivers and PR's be air tight.

With all the precision of pinching fingernails and sesame seeds of putty, to let the air seep between cycles would have a detrimental effect, of additional and non-adjustable damping.

It would make the PR respond more slowly in both the active and refractive cycles. but while adjusting the mass has a predictable response, an air leak (depending on how large it was) would have a variable effect on the sound.

All the woofers and PR's are easy to seal, with gasket material from Parts Express.

The tighter the "seal" the tighter the bass.

[Brian Cheney]

Actually you would have to create a vacuum inside the cabinet for the drivers not to return to rest position.  A vacuum would not allow cone motion or transmit sound, so that's out.

Air is highly compressible.  Compliance of suspension will return the cone to the centered position as pressure inside the cabinet equalizes.

In other words, no worries.