[Guilhermejs]

Hello,


        I asked Dave by mail about the Binding posts that comes in the 1801b kit, and he recommended me to open a topic here for discussion. Here is what I ask:

" Did you ever perform an A/B test with your binding posts against something
like the Vampires, or another made of
solid cooper?  They are made of brass right?"

         Do a solid cooper post sounds better? What post did you use in your 1801b?


Guilherme

[David Ellis]

Guilherme,

Thanks for posting this query in a public forum.

I sincerely hope that someone has actually performed an a/b comparison between "generic" binding post and the better boutique stuff.  My words and thoughts on the matter are certainly not pervasively authoritative.  I will, however, offer my thoughts.

The binding posts I use in the 1801 kit are the Long Posts from Madisound.  I then clean the threads with a snap-on die so that a brass 10-32 nut will fit on the post.  There is no ferrous hardware on my posts.  There is a reason for this.

Several years ago I assembled a few testing crossovers using ring-loops and ferrous nuts.  The details are here http://www.ellisaudio.com/Brassscrews.htm .  Following this, I vowed to avoid ferrous material in the signal path.  I continue to believe that using a ferrous nut on a binding post is bad, bad, bad.

I have spent @ 20 hours in the past 3-4 years seeking a "normal priced" binding post assembly/plate from China with no ferrous hardware.  I am willing to purchase 500-1000 pieces as necessary, but 5-7 companies queried in China become "frightened" when I ask for a non ferrous nut on a binding post assembly.  Candidly, this is quite frustrating  .  I really don't understand the dynamics herein.  Can anyone help.  Is brass illegal in China?

Regarding the sound quality... someone I trust (who sells Cardas Posts), conveyed 2-3 years ago that there would be no immediate difference in sound quality if I used his Cardas Posts in my speaker.  However, he did mention the significant advantage to the Cardas binding post is the Cardas alloy is very strong, and allows significantly more clamping pressure on the cable spade.  The result in damp environments would be less oxidation depositing in the joint between the binding post and the cable spade.   This seemed very reasonable and practical.  In the subjective nature of things, he said that my puttering with my speaker terminals every +/- 6 months in my midwest air conditioned home would result in nil impact from the better Cardas posts.  However, for a guy in a damp indoor climate that plans to leave his system idle for 1yr or more... a better post might be a good idea.

The solid copper post is... a slightly different animal.  They are softer than the alloy posts, and will be very prone to oxidation between the nut and post.  If you don't mind puttering with terminal cleaner occasionally... go for it.  However, I... really don't think that replacing 1" of brass with 1" of copper in the signal path will be audible/significant.

So, my comments are based on social input, and very little testing.  My opinion is:

Sans the ferrous nut, a cheap Chinese binding post from Madisound or Parts Express will sound on-par with the boutique stuff when fresh.  I am open to disagreement.  Any takers?

Dave

[Guilhermejs]

Hello Dave,


         I use these posts on my amplifier:




    They are made from solid cooper. Yes, they tend to oxydate during some time, but the make a VERY strong clamping to my "spade" connectors! So strong that the contact area don't oxydate. I say "spade" because my speaker cables are DIY, made from a Goertz 12awg film foil inductor and the spade connector is molded on the foil. I'll add a good gold or silver plated spade to the connections to avoid oxydation on the cable, but in my cooper posts, they keep the contact area clean with the strong clamping.

     I agree with your friend that the madisound posts don't make a strong connection, I have they on two DIY speakers. But i'm curious about this Madisound post against a solid cooper post like mine. A friend of mine in Brasil have excelent DIY solid cooper posts, i'll take 2 pairs to make the test and the i'll post here.

Guilherme

[jackthecat]

Those look like Edison Price copper binding posts. $40 at Music Direct.

[David Ellis]

Yes, they tend to oxydate during some time, but the make a VERY strong clamping to my "spade" connectors! So strong that the contact area don't oxydate.

This is good to know information!  Thanks.

I doesn't appear that anyone has accomplished a solid a/b comparison with binding posts viewing this forum - yet.  Perhaps someone will eventually contribute in this regard.

Until then, I look forward to your comments about the a/b binding post test between the botique stuff and the brass madisound posts.  Thanks for taking the time to accomplish this test.

[David Ellis]

I have another thought. 

$40 is a fairly significant quantity of $$ to spend on binding posts.  I believe that $40 would be better spent on some good bypass capactors behind the tweeter.  I really need to test this again.  This time I'll use some "better" bypass capacitors. 

My last test with a Sonicap primary and a Sonicap bypass yielded no impact to my ears when in the tweeter circuit.

I should probably try some of that fancy Mundorf stuff or a Sonicap Platinum.

Dave

[Guilhermejs]

I got the posts today:



I'll use the ones from madisound first for a few days, and then i'll install these.

Guilherme

[bluesky]

Dear Dave et al

Mark Audio make some really nice looking gold plated copper based binding posts and at $20 a pair appear to be quite a bargain.  Here is the link:

http://www.markaudio.com/comp_binding_posts.php

let me know what you think.

Best regards

Bluesky