[Eugene2]

Just purchased new RM30Ms with TRT cap upgrade and larger sub.  I assembled the system and fired it up to begin the burn-in process.  The process included burning in new Virtual Dynamics Master bi-wire speaker and RCA cable, specially made Odyssey Extreme Mono-blocs and a new Edge G CD player all other equipment has already been burned in.  So I put it on a moderate level to not disturb the spouse, hit repeat to let her play.  After a few minutes heard distortion from the mid panel (clicking and volume going slightly up and down, then mid panel began cutting off and on).  Emailed Brian (who is very accomodating) after determining it was the top panel and he immediately mailed a new one.  I installed the new panel cut the system on and hit repeat again, I then rushed off to the airport to see a sick friend.  I arrived back home to discover the mid panel was not working, so I took the speaker cable from the rear of the speaker and tapped the front screws of the bottom panel and all three mid panels worked.  I also checked the wiring to determine if any bad connections between the panels.  All connections seem to be fine.  So with all three panels functional and the wiring between panels seems to be good, they seem to only work when bypassing the crossover.  Anyone have any additional suggestions?

[CornellAlum]

Sounds like a short to me...is it cutting in and out?  It is possible that the crossover got jostled during shipping and has caused the short.  Have you opened them up and checked with a multimeter?

[Eugene2]

Not cutting in and out panels are dead through binding post, active through front screws.  B is trying to help me diagnose problem.  Not sure how to use multimeter or locate xover (assume through woofers) but sounds like a good suggestion.

[CornellAlum]

The crossover is directly behing the bbttom woofer. All you will need the multimeter for is to check for continuity.  It should be a lot easier than shipping them back to be fixed...ugh.

[James Romeyn]

What's up w/ the tweeter?  May help diagose.  The tweeter inputs on the same binding posts as the mids.

Must eliminate one by one, on the midrange circuit:

1. Open(s) between the binding posts & the drivers.
2. Short(s) between BP & xo components (between xo components & mids = no sound at mid panel terminals).
3. Short(s) anywhere combined w/ open(s) between the short(s) & the mids (one confirmed fire in the building doesn't mean there's not two!  Highly unlikely but possible.)

Be careful only low to low moderate volumes: Bypassed xo may hurt mids, short may damage SS amp.  It's a bit complicated inside, bandpass mid xo, dual pole high-pass.  My guess is an open right at the bp.

If you must go in remove all bass drivers & passives (4 if C version, 5 if M version) for visiblity & access. 

[Eugene2]

Tweeter is operating, only mid panel trouble.

[James Romeyn]

Eugene
Are you up to removing drivers & diagnosing?  Any friends into soldering?  If you are not, & no friend is, probably just pack them up & send back to B.  Call B for pickup authority.

You must be careful not to damage the bass drivers (read put a screwdriver through the surround) when re-installing.  I bet you can find the problem but it's not the most fun you'll have that day I gaurantee.  U super sensitive to fiberglass insulation?

What's B say?

There is a small cap bank added to the large one.  Maybe one wire came off & is shorting.  My best guess is still one open lead right at the bp.

[Eugene2]

B is still helping me diagnose.  You may be right open wire at bp

[Jose R.]

Eugene

Perhaps you can try to gently tighten the nuts on the panels - I had intermittent cutting out of the panels - this seemed to do the trick.

Regards

Jose

[Hipper]

What do those nuts at the bottom of the mid panels do?

[warnerwh]

Those nuts at the bottom are connections to that driver. I wouldn't mess with those. The film in the planar is very fragile to which those nuts are connected. If one of your drivers are not working then talk to Brian. If you decide to tighten them I'd be very wary as you can tear that film with the aluminum traces and ruin the driver.  It's very very thin. They shouldn't need to be tight, just snug.

[Eugene2]

Thanks Jim R (ribbonspeaker) found the problem.  Just as you said, I removed woofers and located a short to the xover and mid pots.  Now I just need to either send them to B to repair or someone good with a soldering iron (I'm not).  They are working for now.

[Eugene2]

Last post on this subject.  After we finished diagnosing the problem and I did my half a__ fix, I emailed B to let him know the problem.  Instead of screwing around any further he is replacing the speaker.  That's what I call service!
Well thanks to all that chipped in to help with my diagnostics.  I was pretty proud that I was able to isolate the problem and at least get them working.  I learned from Michael Farnsworth from Talon Audio when he upgraded my Firebirds that the woofers need to be tight to the cabinet and the insulation properly packed or you will not get optimum base performance.  I was worried that I did not repack the speakers properly, well B solved my dilemma.  By the way the Firebirds are 10 times more expensive and I do not miss them!

[john1970]

Mike,

As a fellow VMPS owner (RM40s) I've been following your story for the last few days.  Glad to hear that Brian is letting you return the speakers.  I also had some initial issues with my RM40s (no where as bad as yours) and Brian's customer service is absolutely first rate. 

Sorry to hear about the short, but things like that occur when large speakers are shipped.  Actually that was one of my major concerns when my RM40s were shipped since they had to go from CA to MA! 

After many months of listening I firmly believe that the VMPS speakers are an excellent value and provide one of the most "live" sound as any speaker.  IMO the RM40s can compete with speakers selling at twice the price and 9 time out of 10 sound better 

Good luck,

John

P.S. You are in good hands with Brian and VMPS!

[James Romeyn]

Eugene
I promise you it will be worth the wait getting a properly functioning pair.  They are my favorite, probably even preferred overall vs. Infinity IRS III's heard in the late '80s-early '90s ($65k then, unknown conversion to '06 dollars).  The  recent upgrades (BH5, MLS cabinets, CDW w/ passive tweeter EQ) are great value; the CDW w/ EQ being the best of the lot.  The speakers are worthy of the best soundroom & equipment. 

[OTL]

,,,,,, The  recent upgrades (BH5, MLS cabinets, CDW w/ passive tweeter EQ) are great value; the CDW w/ EQ being the best of the lot.  The speakers are worthy of the best soundroom & equipment. 

No doubt the above is true.  Work this through with "Big-B".  The sound in my home is magnificent.  My old school, Italian neighbors appreciate the truth my RM30's launch into space when playing original Sinatra LP's on a sultry Sunday afternoon.  They dance in the driveway!