At some point in years past, I was led to believe the properties inherent to Baltic birch mitigate (all-but eliminate?) the problem of expansion and contraction. Was I misled?
I had the been led to believe the same thing based on what I'd scoured from various websites and newsgroups, and thus requested my speakers be built using 3/4" Baltic Birch for that exact reason. Unfortunately, there was still enough movement of the wood over time to cause significant finish issues.

Edit (clarification of my above comment after reading Christof's post submitted): The wood in my speakers expanded or contracted in the lateral direction, meaning in the width-wise direction of the lumber.
I do like the look of the new speakers, although I preferred the original, curved-side profile. I understand that integrating a stand in a stable and visually appealing manner would have been more difficult with that version, but I thought they looked very clean. I'll be curious to hear them if I ever get the chance.
DU, I have to say that - in terms of
power requirements - 2 150W RMS amps per side would almost certainly be massive overkill in a 2-way speaker using an active, electronic crossover. The active crossover approach effectively doubles the power of each amp. The tweeter, driven directly, will take very little power to drive (and needs to be carefully protected from any start-up "pops" as a result). If the mid-range drivers are paralleled and driven directly, they won't take much power either. I've always liked the concept of active crossovers, and ordered my speakers with outboard crossovers specifically so I could experiment with them someday. Check out
this link for some more background on active vs. passive crossovers.