[engelz]

I just picked up a very nice set of Paradox 3s, and I'd like some suggestions on taming the tweeter a bit, which sounds a bit too sharp to me.  I'm using a Benchmark DAC, fed by a DVD player, and Sophia Baby amp. I'm set up in a large attic space, with high ceilings and bare walls. Speakers are about 4 feet from rear wall.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (especially since I know that you guys are more focussed right now on new and upcoming designs).

[diy]

Hi D it's E (guy who sold you them).  I had the same problem you did.  The good news is that you are using a tube amp which is a good place to start with these.  The P3s can also sound too warm just by changing something simple like interconnects or tubes (ie go to copper from silver).  I used the Art/Dio Dac before the Lite 60 and had this problem.  By simply using a warmer cable like Acoustic Zen Wow or the cheepie Belden 89259 the problem can go away.  You don't need to go overboard by buying new components etc.  BTW I have some raw 89259 that I can sell you if you (cheap test) if want try that (no RCA's though).  Contact me directly if you're interested or need more suggestions.  You can also
call Danny at GR-Research.  He is very nice and willing to help.

[Adamay]

I had exceptionally good luck with this by upgrading the caps & resistors in the P-3 crossover.  The stock ones are fine but upgrades help considerably.  I confess that I don't recall the makes of the upgraded parts, but I got them from the speaker designer / parts source guy who Danny was in business partnership with before Danny went independent.  And I can't recall the guy's name, either.  Danny maybe can help.  He recommended & sold to me exceptionally good caps & resistors.  The effect was to enhance upper-end detail while at the same time removing a hard edge & tizziness up there.  I recall spending a bit under $100 -- and feeling it was well worth it.  Another piece of advice:  if those P-3's are on a suspended wood floor (it sounds like they are) decouple them from the floor using some Herbie's speaker feet or (what I used) cork & rubber footers used under major appliances.  The improvement was equally dramatic (deeper bass extension, punchier bass, smoother through mids & highs).  I'm still a happy P-3 (modded) owner.

[Danny Richie]

I'm set up in a large attic space, with high ceilings and bare walls.

There is the problem right there, bare walls.

I had a love hate relationship with those tweeters. They throw a really wide image, which can be a good thing and it can be a bad thing too.

In a well treated room and good electronics especially tubes, they can be incredible.

But put them in a real lively room and they can burn a hole in your head if your not carful.

I have had good systems on these that sounded great and set the same system up in a lively room and not be able to stand it.

Fix the room first, then I'll help you tame the tweeter further if needed.

They may already have Axon film and foil caps on them. These are not a bad match.

[engelz]

Thank you, Danny and others, for your suggestions.  I thought the room could be (at least partially) to blame, but I'm afraid it might be hard to  fix. I like the bare, modern look. I don't want to put up drapes, etc.

There is carpeting in 1/2 the room, where the speakers are. Should I or should I not put them up on their spikes -- which I haven't yet tried. -- or is that irrelevant to the issue?

[eric the red]

Try some generic copper speaker wire from Radio Shack or Home Depot. I'm not a wire believer by any stretch, but I swear the tweeters in my P3s are much smoother sounding with plain old clean copper wire at about 10 cents a foot. If that works, I've also had excellent results with Analysis Plus Oval 9 wire.  An eight foot pair of Oval 9 runs about 200 bucks on Agone. It may not make a difference sonically, but my brain thinks it does

[jon_010101]

My Paradox 1's were evil-bright when paired with the wrong gear.  With the right amps and such, they were simply fantastic.

Danny is right about the room... biggest factor, and most easily fixed.  I think the cable suggestion is a good one, as it can make a big difference.

The other consideration is your Benchmark DAC, which is a bright and forward-sounding piece of gear (but quite good under the right circumstances).  Maybe try running directly from the DVD Player to see how it sounds?

[laserman]

Danny is correct on making sure the room is a little less lively.

Also, as an owner of P3's, I decoupled the speakers using a my own homemade method.  I am using Zu Cable speaker cable and ICs.   If you dial them in correctly you will get amazing sound stage and bass.

What is your source for playback?

The P3's are amazing speakers and I almost purchased the pair you bought  as a spare.  Currently waiting on the "Open Baffle" ones Danny is almost ready to release.

Good luck.  
L

[PSP]

I have P3s of the same vintage that you have.  I have not done a lot of room treatments (wanting to stay married, etc.) and I have noticed brightness on some recordings.  

I noticed a significant improvement with Sonicaps vs. the stock AXON (Or Solen?) in the P3 XO.  I also got my 963SA player modded (a very big step forward).  My preamp (Aspen GK-1) is tubbed, but I got a very nice improvement with a Sonicap input cap.

Now, I have a very, very nice speaker that I intend to keep for life.

Good Luck,
Peter

[laserman]

PSP, thanks for reminding me that my P'3 also have the Sonicaps in them.  I forgot to mention this very important point.  I purchased them second hand and forgot the original owner had made that change.  He stated they made a noticeable difference...not huge, but worthwhile.  Danny may be able to help you with this little mod to the XO.

Peace and later,
L