[jsalk]

I have been using some large brass spikes on HT3's since their introduction.  But my supplier keeps running out on me.

So I recently started working with a friend who owns a machine shop to develop a new line of our own spikes.

We came up with what we feel is a very attractive new design.  The first run will be going into production within the next week or so.

The current plan is to anodize them in clear aluminum (silver), black and gold (brass color).  So we will have a variety of spike finishes to complement the look of various speakers.

I'll post some pics as soon as we have them in hand.

- Jim

[zybar]

Jim,

Will these spikes fit the HT3's already in the field?  If so, would you have an exchange policy or would somebody just need to buy them?

Is this purely cosmetic or did it also improve the sound?

George

[Nick B]

Jim    I wanted to ask about pointed spikes vs cones. With my current speakers (that weigh over 100 lbs each), I had to use sharp spikes rather than the supplied cones because of the thickness of the carpet and the padding. The floor was concrete. By going to sharp spikes (which I could not locate and had to grind my own), I was able to penetrate the carpet and pad and make solid contact with the floor. With the cones, the speakers would rock back and forth a bit when I would touch them. Also, with the cones/spikes that you supply, would that not cause some indentation due to weight if put directly onto in a wooden floor?                 Nick

[jsalk]

George -

Jim,

Will these spikes fit the HT3's already in the field?  If so, would you have an exchange policy or would somebody just need to buy them?

Is this purely cosmetic or did it also improve the sound?

George

Yes, we will be using the same size set screw to mount them, so they will be interchangeable.  As for the effect on sound, it is purely cosmetic (but I think they will look very sharp).

- Jim

[jsalk]

Nick -

Jim    I wanted to ask about pointed spikes vs cones. With my current speakers (that weigh over 100 lbs each), I had to use sharp spikes rather than the supplied cones because of the thickness of the carpet and the padding. The floor was concrete. By going to sharp spikes (which I could not locate and had to grind my own), I was able to penetrate the carpet and pad and make solid contact with the floor. With the cones, the speakers would rock back and forth a bit when I would touch them.

Sounds like a radiused tip did not work for you.  That is normally the type of spike I supply.  But I have made substitutions for cases like yours.

Also, with the cones/spikes that you supply, would that not cause some indentation due to weight if put directly onto in a wooden floor? Nick

Well, that depends on the type of wood.  For softer woods, it probably is an issue. In such cases, owners either skip the spikes altogether and use some sort of pad beneath the speaker, or they provide some sort of protection under the spikes.  There are spike sets available with metal "landing" pads that sit on the floor and are designed to accept spike tips.

- Jim

[Christof]

I'm still waiting for someone to mill copper spikes to go with those pretty Seas phase plugs

[zybar]

Nick -

Well, that depends on the type of wood.  For softer woods, it probably is an issue. In such cases, owners either skip the spikes altogether and use some sort of pad beneath the speaker, or they provide some sort of protection under the spikes.  There are spike sets available with metal "landing" pads that sit on the floor and are designed to accept spike tips.

- Jim

Guys,

In my new house the system is in a space with wood floors so I went with coupling discs from Audipoints to avoid damaging the floor.  Here is a picture:



You can read more about them at the audio points website:

http://www.audiopoints.com/apcd2.html

To make things even better, I have added felt to the underside of the disc so I can easily slide the speakers around.  This is especially necessary for me until I figure out the exact location for the speakers in the new room.

George

[jsalk]

Christof -

I'm still waiting for someone to mill copper spikes to go with those pretty Seas phase plugs

I actually checked this out.  The problem is, copper is getting outrageously expensive.  Spikes fashioned from copper would probably run about $50 each or more.  But if you want them...

- Jim

[Watson]

I actually checked this out.  The problem is, copper is getting outrageously expensive.  Spikes fashioned from copper would probably run about $50 each or more.  But if you want them...

Huh?  The price of copper has increased, but it's nowhere even close to those kinds of prices.  One inch thick copper rod, as an example, is selling for about $25/foot in small quantities.  (Even if you buy a single foot at a time, you'd be hard pressed to pay more than $35/foot.)  Brass is about half the price of copper, currently.  The time to machine both metals is roughly the same.  It shouldn't cost more than about $2 per spike more to produce copper spikes.

[jsalk]

Huh?  The price of copper has increased, but it's nowhere even close to those kinds of prices.  One inch thick copper rod, as an example, is selling for about $25/foot in small quantities.  (Even if you buy a single foot at a time, you'd be hard pressed to pay more than $35/foot.)  Brass is about half the price of copper, currently.  The time to machine both metals is roughly the same.  It shouldn't cost more than about $2 per spike more to produce copper spikes.

Watson -

You could very well be right.  But I need 2" rods and the machining ($16 -$20 each) is also expensive.  I may be off a little on the price, but it seemed too high the last time I checked it out.

- Jim

[brj]

I'd think that you'd need a copper alloy to make this work, as I suspect that any reasonably pure copper would be too soft to support the weight of the HT3s without deforming the points.  If you could get a sufficiently dense alloy that still had the same color as the phase plugs, however, it would be a really nice touch.

[Q]

I'd think that you'd need a copper alloy to make this work, as I suspect that any reasonably pure copper would be too soft to support the weight of the HT3s without deforming the points.  If you could get a sufficiently dense alloy that still had the same color as the phase plugs, however, it would be a really nice touch.

How about some nice Beryllium copper points...that should be nice and expensive...plus with the extremely good thermally conductive characteristics of that material, they can be used to pull heat off the voice coils!  

Seriously...I may be way off here, but wouldnt brass and/or copper have much more density and mass, thereby coupling (transmittitting) the vibration much better....which is the whole point (pun intended) here.  And, although the anodizing itself makes for a very hard thin layer (of less than .0005"), the underlying aluminum will be very soft, (depending on the aluminum alloy used) so material selection here may be important!????
Suggest listening tests with each material!!!

[MaxCast]

Densities would range from .285 to .312 pounds/sq. in.  so, not much to be found there, IMO.

I wouldn't even want to guess the price of the Beryllium Copper alloys.

If used as a point I wouldn't use aluminum as that will deform.  But a rounded blunt end would do just fine.

Jim, are your feet used to level or do they screw in to the plinth all the way?

[brj]

I admit that "density" was probably not the most appropriate term, but I was in no way suggesting the use of a more expensive material just for the heck of it.  Discussions of Rockwell number might be more appropriate.

My point was simply that if you are supporting 115+ lbs on three fine points into a (worst case) concrete floor, there are going to be some material related issues to consider if you want to use materials other than what Jim has already tested.

[toobluvr]

Guys,

In my new house the system is in a space with wood floors so I went with coupling discs from Audipoints to avoid damaging the floor.  Here is a picture:



You can read more about them at the audio points website:

http://www.audiopoints.com/apcd2.html

To make things even better, I have added felt to the underside of the disc so I can easily slide the ...

I used another method to protect my wood floors.  I simply screwed some hex head tap bolts right into where the spikes go.  

Just like the full threaded ones here:

http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/departments.asp?dept=61

You can also get partially threaded ones, but the full thread gives you more flexibility for levelling the speaker.  They come in different lengths and thread sizes.  To make sure you get the right one, just bring your spike into any Home Depot, Lowes, or local hardware store.  They cost pennies, and still allow for levelling.  I found the threads to be just a bit rough and "sticky", but spray them with WD-40 and they will screw in very smoothly.

Once the desired spike height is achieved, I tighten a nut down onto bottom surface of speaker to snug things up and prevent height "drift".
To allow for easy sliding and positioning of the speaker, I glued some heavy duty felt pads to the bolt head.  I found that the self stick stuff did not hold up, so I used contact cement.  It works like a charm.  Levelling is simple.....speakers are very easy to slide around and position...... and floors are protected.

The Zybar method is a good one, and I tried it initially.   But in my case, the disks would get hung up on some of the board joints, making sliding around difficult.  And if I wasn't careful, or pushed too hard/fast, sometimes the spike would de-couple from the disk.  The hex bolts plow over floor rough spots more effectively.  If it does get hung up you can slightly tip the speaker to decouple a bolt from the floor and then easily slide right over it, without losing the disk, and the floor protection.

When my friend listens critically he needs to have his speakers blocking the doorway between LR and kitchen.  Rest of time, to keep the doorway open, he pushes them out of way against the wall.  He initially used the Zybar method to protect his wood floor and slide his speakers around, and always struggled with the disks catching, and spike/disk de-coupling.  He now uses my method without any problems.  If your floors are glassy smooth, and you slide carefully, I suppose the spike + AP disk will work fine.

In terms of sound......I  can't say that I heard any difference at all between the two methods.

[jsalk]

Jim, are your feet used to level or do they screw in to the plinth all the way?

I suppose you could use them to level, but they are normally screwed in all the way.  I use three spikes (rather than four) so they are always going to be stable.

- Jim

[zybar]

The Zybar method is a good one, and I tried it initially. But in my case, the disks would get hung up on some of the board joints, making sliding around difficult. And if I wasn't careful, or pushed too hard/fast, sometimes the spike would de-couple from the disk. The hex bolts plow over floor rough spots more effectively. If it does get hung up you can slightly tip the speaker to decouple a bolt from the floor and then easily slide right over it, without losing the disk, and the floor protection.

When my friend listens critically he needs to have his speakers blocking the doorway between LR and kitchen. Rest of time, to keep the doorway open, he pushes them out of way against the wall. He initially used the Zybar method to protect his wood floor and slide his speakers around, and always struggled with the disks catching, and spike/disk de-coupling. He now uses my method without any problems. If your floors are glassy smooth, and you slide carefully, I suppose the spike + AP disk will work fine.

John, I couldn't agree more with your statement.  Until I added the felt under each disc I could only move the speakers very slowly.  I also did have th espikes pop off after hitting a bump in the floor.  Once the felt was in place, no more issues and I can easily slide the speakers around.

Didn't do an A/B with felt and non-felt in terms of sound.  

George

[RIKMEISTER]

you can actually melt down pennies.  they actually cost more to make than they are worth in money.

[MaxCast]

you can actually melt down pennies.  they actually cost more to make than they are worth in money.

I think pennies are only copper alloy coated now days.

[HChi]

Zybar,
Could you share what is this "felt" that is added? Could you also share where I get some of it?

Thanks.