Not another GK1M thread!!

soitstarts · « **on:** 24 Mar 2006, 03:49 am »

Hi all. Hope everything is ticking along nicely..
I am awaiting a Rod Elliot volume remote Kit and have a couple of questions.
I qoute the website in regards to power supply..

Quote

Finally, the power supply is shown in Figure 3. A very standard 5V regulator, and the applied power may be anything from around 10V up to 25V. At higher voltages a heatsink may be needed. Although the circuit is typically only used for brief periods at any one time, anything is possible in life, and a heatsink is cheap insurance.

Could someone tell me where I should tap in for a power supply? I'm guessing the 17V supply to the tubes as Rabbitz mentioned in another thread.

Also, I already have the supplied manual Alps Pot but have ordered a motorised Alps pot. from what I understand

the supplied pot is 20k and the motorised pot is 50k. does this matter and does anyone know if I can swap them over onto the drive?

Can I run some wires for the IR detector instead of soldering directly to the PCB or will that affect the signals??

And now the "too much time on my hands" question...
Since I'm not using the phono option, would it be possible to use the unused selector position as the HT bypass switch? I have had a look at the board (gotta find the schematic) and wonder if it is worth trying to figure out some wire links to replace the long twisted pair?

Thanks for your time,

Martin

AKSA · « **Reply #1 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 05:57 am »

Martin,

How much current does the RE remote volume control draw, both at idle and at full spin?

These are crucial questions as the supply of the two AKSA trafos is limited to about 50mA max apiece.

Cheers,

Hugh

rabbitz · « **Reply #2 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 11:51 am »

Quote from: soitstarts

Could someone tell me where I should tap in for a power supply? I'm guessing the 17V supply to the tubes as Rabbitz mentioned in another thread.

No... it was from the 6VAC filament supply as the 17V doesn't have enough current capabilities. After rectification and a 1000uF cap, it gave me 8V to feed the 5V reg. Another option is to feed it from a wall wart (9-12VDC).

You can run wires from the IR receiver and place your PCB elsewhere. With the ESP remote, make sure you don't have a Sony TV as it uses Sony codes instead of the more normal Philips codes.

soitstarts · « **Reply #3 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 01:09 pm »

Whoops, thanks for that.. I had to go the ESP option as altronics were out of stock for a couple of months. Kind of happy as I was able to get the transmitter kit as well.
The only Sony components I HAD was a VCR which just spat the dummy not long after my Sony DVD stopped working.. $1200 bucks between them and not even 2 years old and they're junk. Meanwhile the $75 Centrix DVD in the kids room is still ticking along.... The VHS I can live without as it was just a clock, anyway.

AKSA · « **Reply #4 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 09:54 pm »

Ah,

I get it now!!

Yes, for a 5V supply, use the filament winding. Either of them will tolerate at least another 150mA of draw.

Thanks Peter, you got it in one!

Cheers,

Hugh

rabbitz · « **Reply #5 on:** 25 Mar 2006, 01:41 am »

I wasn't clever Hugh as you told me that info on the filament wiring to get my remote working.... I even understood it.

soitstarts · « **Reply #6 on:** 31 Mar 2006, 12:10 pm »

Hi again. I have some copper braid I want to slide some signal wires through to try get rid of some buzzing. From what I've read, I think I need to ground the braid. Is this correct? Will any ground on the board do, or do I need to ground independently?

Thanks,
Martin

AKSA · « **Reply #7 on:** 31 Mar 2006, 08:55 pm »

Yes, Martin,

Star earth, at the pot, is best for the braid.

How much hum?

I trust the hurricane gave Newman a wide berth..... Karratha was bruised, but not too bad; Onslow was not so lucky, it seems.

Cheers,

Hugh

andyr · « **Reply #8 on:** 31 Mar 2006, 11:01 pm »

Quote from: AKSA

Yes, Martin,

Star earth, at the pot, is best for the braid.

Cheers,

Hugh

Hi Hugh,

R U shure?

As you know, I've done this "earthed-braid-over-signal-wire" trick extensively in my GK-1 and my philosphy was:
* the braid needs to be grounded to make it an effective shield.
* however, this "ground" is nothing to do with either "signal" ground or "power" ground ... so shouldn't connect to either.
* thus the best place to ground this braid is back to chassis (which is "grounded" to the IEC earth pin).

Martin, you do this by using an extra long piece of braid, feeding the signal wires out the side at the appropriate place and then taking the extra length of braid back to a convenient chassis bolt.

Regards,

Andy

soitstarts · « **Reply #9 on:** 1 Apr 2006, 02:00 am »

Thanks Hugh and Andy..

It was a buzz but I had a "bad" signal ground to switching PCB connection.
Once resoldered it came good. I still await the remote PCB so I can see the need for this braiding as room is becomming a bit rare, now.

Cyclone gave us a wide berth but we did get the benefit of lots of rain.