sweet $3 tweak

texendo · « **on:** 19 Mar 2006, 11:01 pm »

I did this on my old Dynaudio's a while back, and just got around to performing the same tweak on my Super 3's v.2. Simply place some self-stick felt pads over each of the Fostex mounting screws (the ones you would put under say a lamp to keep it from scratching your table surface). You may have to search around for a decent color; my local grocery store only had green ones on hand today, but I've seen black and brown.

I learned this tweak from famed tweaker Ric Schultz from EVS. The idea is that the mounting screws, if not perfectly flush (especially the case with Dynaudio tweaters) interefere with the sound dispersion from the cones. Just did it to my Omega's to a very nice effect. Overall the sound is cleaned up, more musical, and you'll be able to turn things up a little more without the concomitant listener fatigue; like removing a layer of noise from the sound you may not have realized was there.

If you don't like it, just peel off the pads and you're out less than $3. Love it!

I would love to hear others' experience...

SET Man · « **Reply #1 on:** 20 Mar 2006, 12:36 am »

Hi tex,

Hey! thanks for the tip!

I have a pair 167E in my DIY TQWT.

Anyway, I have piece of felt left that I use to cover the egde of Fostex FT-17H horn tweeter that I use as helper/supertweeter. I cut a small rectangular pieces to cover the screws and surrounding metal plate.

You know what... I don't know if it is my imagination or what but I think it smooth out the upper-mid/lower-treble a bit!

Well, so far the result is positive but need more investigation before I could say the is work for sure. Oh! I'm thinking since you've mention flush mouthing... I will get some more felt and cut them in to stripes and stick them around the driver and on to the baffle this would make it like the driver is flush-mouthed.

Hey! thanks for the idea.

Take care,
Buddy

texendo · « **Reply #2 on:** 20 Mar 2006, 12:44 am »

When I played around with this tweak on my Dynaudio Audience 82's (2 woofers, 1 mid, 1 tweater) I actually got better results when I covered even the screws around the mid and woofers. Don't know how to explain the effects, but it undoubtedly sounded better with all screws covered (as opposed to just the ones around the tweeter).

In my own experiments, you can have too much of a good thing... I would only cover the screws themselves without implementing large areas (strips, rectangles, etc) of excessive felt... seemed to overly "dampen" the sound after a while.

SET Man · « **Reply #3 on:** 20 Mar 2006, 01:00 am »

Quote from: texendo

In my own experiments, you can have too much of a good thing... I would only cover the screws themselves without implementing large areas (strips, rectangles, etc) of excessive felt... seemed to overly "dampen" the sound after a while.

Hey!

Ture.

But it won't hurt to try since is cheap and if it too much all I have to do is just peel them off.

Take care,
Buddy

roymail · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 Mar 2006, 02:35 am »

I'd like to hear from Louis C. on this since he's probably tried every tweak to better his already great Super 3s. I guess it's an easy try, but room interaction could effect the outcome.

-- Roy

JLM · « **Reply #5 on:** 20 Mar 2006, 11:10 am »

I've read that this idea can be successfully extended to the entire baffle. In that case there is an added benefit (especially for large baffle speakers): reflections of the sound waves from the other speaker are reduced (at least within a limited frequency range).

So perhaps the ideal open baffle design would have a 4 inch deep high density fiberglass acoustical treatment panel mounted to the baffle and the drive offset to be flush with the front of the panel.

Louis O · « **Reply #6 on:** 23 Mar 2006, 01:16 am »

Hi texendo,

Thanks for the great tweak and I will try it out for sure. I haven't tried this out yet. I have installed stainless screws and was told this makes a difference, but really didn't. I'm also working on a pretty fancy trim ring for the 127e. This should be very nice.

Thanks again,
Louis

masi76gc · « **Reply #7 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 12:51 am »

I am not sure how much difference treating just the screws around the driver makes, but I have tried treating the entire baffle with sound absorbing materials like acoustic foam or wool felt and can definitely tell you that it makes a hugh difference. The difference is both audible and measurable. Baffle treatment nearly completely removes that "honky" tonality in the midrange and improves the imaging. I have done this with a kit speaker I built and I am extrememly tempted to do the same on my Super 3Rs. The only problem, I just can't bare the thought of covering up that beautiful Cherry finish with dark wool felt.

So, Louis, if you figure out a way to fight baffle loading for the wide-baffle Super 3/3Rs in a way that does not severely compromise the aesthetics of the speakers, please share with us!

texendo · « **Reply #8 on:** 24 Mar 2006, 05:33 am »

Quote from: masi76gc

I am not sure how much difference treating just the screws around the driver makes, but I have tried treating the entire baffle with sound absorbing materials like acoustic foam or wool felt and can definitely tell you that it makes a hugh difference. The difference is both audible and measurable. Baffle treatment nearly completely removes that "honky" tonality in the midrange and improves the imaging. I have done this with a kit speaker I built and I am extrememly tempted to do the same on my Super 3Rs. ...

You may very well be pleasantly surprised at how much difference just covering the screws makes... and it's not so esthetically displeasing.