[randytsuch]

CJR,
I eliminated the binding posts in my system, pretty much as you described, on both the amp and speaker ends, and I think I heard a difference.  Since I did not feel like A/Bing the two configurations, it is a little hard to tell, because you listen, spend 30 minutes modding it, then listen again.
Maybe it's because I did the work, so I wanted to hear it,  but I have made other changes where I did not really hear a diff, and I expected too.
Was worth it to me, if you don't mind drilling some holes in your stuff.  The speaker end is easy, amp was harder because you have to drill through metal.

As for speaker cables, ETR, go visit Stan some time and see if he will let you borrow some of his speaker cables.  I use Stan's recipe, and am happy with them.

Randy

[Tonto Yoder]

Reading the latest Stereophile (June 2003), specifically Sam Tellig's review of the big Triangle Magellan speakers, one aspect reminded me of this thread.  The manufacturer SUPPLIED suggested speaker wire!!

"Renaud prefers a simple, single-wire connection [though bi-wire or tri-wire is available].  He delivered a single run of Triangle Silver Ghost, the same silver-clad, copper-stranded cable with which the Magellan is internally wired."

[ABEX]

I just had my speakers built and I had the designer leave the XO's outboard and also had him bypass the binding post by running the wires straight out the back of the enclsures.

The internal wires were Cryo'd 47 Labs OTA on the Tweeters\Midrange units and untreated OTA for the woofers. Ithink that solidcore wire should be used for the internals of speakers.

I read one poster that used Canare which I really do not like as an Audiphile grade wire. Just did not work well in my system,but I did not use the speakers cable. Just to add wires do  make a difference in my system!

[Tonto Yoder]

Ric Schulz of Electronic Visionary Systems has been advocating bypassing binding posts for some time in his free tweaks section. He suggested bringing the end of the internal wire outside the cabinet and clamping it against the bare wire of the speaker cable inside the binding post.  In other words, you KEEP the binding post (to clamp the wires together) but the signal doesn't actually go THROUGH the posts.  This would probably help resale if one decided to sell the speakers later.

[Carlman]

I read one poster that used Canare which I really do not like as an Audiphile grade wire. Just did not work well in my system,but I did not use the speakers cable. Just to add wires do  make a difference in my system!

That would be me, and I really don't like the interconnect and the speaker cable isn't terrible but, nothing I'd recommend.  The only reason I'm using it was to sell all my 'good stuff' to buy a whole new package of 'better stuff'...  So, it's a temporary thing.  

I've heard a lot of talk about the effects of binding posts.  I'm using all copper, uncoated Cardas posts on my amp and the stock posts on my speakers are gold plated.  I don't know what difference I'd hear by removing them all but, one day I will find out.  I can't imagine it will be very dramatic, though.

[ABEX]

Carlman
I do not know the diff either,but I like as little as possible coloring the signal. I guess I am a purist at heart  and  there is nothing wrong with that.

I have OTA cable and it is revealing and sensitive. It is working well as internal speaker wire ,but takes forever to breakin.

Copper cable I would have cryo'd. Gives more presence,but all other types I would not chance it

Canare did not work well in my system and I do not know why strereophile still recommends it. Belden is probably better. I use a run of Belden Digital Cryo'd and that works well.

Canare did work between the Passive Pre-Amp and the amp though and I might use it for my surround channels.

There are other less expensive cable that worked for me like KnuKonceptz.com .For the $$ you won't beat it!

Later!