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Folks,This is a very good thread. I think differences between exorbitantly priced digital cables comes only from the varying impedence of the cables. If it so happens that the cable's impedence matches your output/input impendences, then that is your high-end cable. I have tried various digital cables with my Philips 963sa and Panasonic XR55 digital amp receiver. Right now, the $30 glass toslink sounds the best to me.
I'll bet the opto link sounds best because there is no ground connection between the two units. Given the near total lack of any grounding standard in consumer audio your observation does not surprise me. d.b.
RandyFor a cable, measure L and C and calculate Z. it will be =sqr(L/C).Measure L with the far end shorted. Measure C with the far end open.For an output or an input, put a 1K resistor in series with a sine gen into the output. Push 1.075 volts in, to force 1 milliamp current. (close enough). As far as I am aware, no equipment should be damaged by forcing one milliamp into an input or an output. (anyone out there differ on that?)The voltage measured at the output or input will be the d ...
Randy:You are right, I don't come here often. When I do, it usually is because something on one forum spills over onto another one, and we would like to know in advance who is being a PITA.OK, where was I........?Cable:I have found that lower loss ones tend to sound better. There is no hard and fast rule, because as you have discovered, it is a system. You have to take the whole system into account. And even then.......there still are no hard rules.I once tried a $1000 microwave Gore-Tex ...
Hi John, The part for measuring an cable, and a input makes sense, but I was not sure on the output. You said it should be live, which I presume to mean turned on. If you do that, won't the output "fight" with the signal gen, and mess up the readings? Randy