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All, I have a seriously crap room (3m x 3m x 4.5m) with carpet which I wanted to treat, a friend of mine recommended getting 4" foams from this website: http://www.foamandupholstery.com/Noise_Control_Products%20.htm I am absolutely new to the topic of room acoustic. I wonder if someone can advice me whether the more foams I place in the room (covering side walls and ceiling) the better? I am also thinking of getting rolls of fiberglass insulation from Homedepot and stack them up at 4 corne ...
Thanks for all your suggestions...I bump into this on ebay.. I probably won't buy them since I want to stick with fiberglass, but just wondering if these type of material is as good as they claimed?http://cgi.ebay.com/Acoustic-Acoustical-Panel-for-Recording-Studio-No-Foam_W0QQitemZ7385023169QQcategoryZ3278QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Here is the problem I have with these panels.. They have a 1/4" wood backing on them.. The back of the panel needs to be open for it to work right...
Quote from: Glenn KHere is the problem I have with these panels.. They have a 1/4" wood backing on them.. The back of the panel needs to be open for it to work right... Why does the back have to be open for it to "work right"? It's going to be mounted against to a solid wall.
Actually for the panels to work effectively - they need to be mounted off the wall so that sound travels through the back and sides...this is by far more effective..in most cases, if not all cased, HUGELY ..so you can not cover the back with something dense- this defeats the purpose..If the panel is 2" thick then it should be mounted 2" off the wall...I will let the PROS here better explain..for what its worth it is not a huge investment...it might be worth it for you.
Mounting the panel on the wall with an air space behind it greatly improves it's performance below 250Hz. The longer wavelengths travel through the panel and are reflected from the wall behind and have to travel back through the panel to get back into the room. In the process sound wave has to make a transition through the boundary from the fiberglass to air and back into the fiberglass which aids in dissipating the acoustical energy present. Owens Corning 703 semi-rigid fiberglass is the gold standard for sound absortion efficiency. Scotty
Thank you all. I have one last question, according to this excellent acoustic panel DIY website:http://www.angelfire.com/sports/RCcars/acoustic_panels.htmThe author clearly said that a panel won't fix frequency below 80Hz. To do that we need a bass trap.Now, I have read from various website that a quick and dirty DIY bass trap can be made by stacking up rolls of fiberglass bought from homedepot, keep them in their plastic bags, wrap one layer of poly batting around them and then covered with burla ...
Reasons the roll will work better....- It's thicker so more and longer waves can exist inside it at one time.- it's leading edge is farther from a boundary- it's more dense since in the packaging it's compressed more- it has no back so waves can use the space behind to enter.Other than that, they're about the same