Removal of the tweeter horn for CDWG

BrunoB · « **on:** 13 Jan 2006, 04:08 pm »

I received a message asking about the procedure describing how to remove the horn of the FST tweeter in order to compensate for the >10K roll off.

Be aware that this procedure is risky: it very easy to damage the 10 microns thick ribbon.

1) remove the 2 foam pads (messy!)
2) remove outer screws that attach the tweeter to the enclosure
3) remove the tweeter from enclosure, place it somewhere close such that you don't have to disconnect it (unsolder). A 2nd pair of hands might be helpful.
4) With an hexagonal screwdriver, remove the four screws that hold the frontplate
5) Remove frontplate. ATTENTION: At this stage, there is no more screen to protect the ribbon! DON'T DAMAGE THE RIBBON, any magnetisable metallic tool will be attracted by the very strong neodynium magnets. I would recommend to hot glue a new protection screen ASAP.
6) Glue the tweeter to the enclosure or find a better way to attach it. I covered the body of the tweeter with some dynamat xtreme such that it would fit tight in the hole of the enclosure.

I don't have a better suggestion for step 6. May be Brian could offer a new frontplate without a horn?

Bruno

Brian Cheney · « **Reply #1 on:** 13 Jan 2006, 04:44 pm »

We will offer a horn-free mounting bracket for the FST.

ctviggen · « **Reply #2 on:** 13 Jan 2006, 04:46 pm »

How much does removing the horn give you? (I mean in terms of lessening the rolloff.)

John Casler · « **Reply #3 on:** 13 Jan 2006, 05:29 pm »

Quote from: Brian Cheney

We will offer a horn-free mounting bracket for the FST.

That would be an "unhorny" tweeter.

woodsyi · « **Reply #4 on:** 13 Jan 2006, 05:56 pm »

John,

I am horny now. I want to get unhorny. Would you please take care of this for me? Thanks

By the way I was the one who PMed Bruno.

Bob Wilcox · « **Reply #5 on:** 14 Jan 2006, 07:47 pm »

If performing the tweeter mod, exercise the caution suggested. You will have to use a bit of force to pull the face plate away from the FST tweeter body. It is held there mostly by intense magnetic force. If you leave the tweeter connected, you'll want to avoid wacking the cabinet when you do this.

That was the trickiest part for me. I was expecting the face plate to just fall off when the hex screws were removed. I removed the midrange panel just below and was able to reach in and push out the tweeter assembly from behind. Then a firm grip is needed on the rear of the tweeter assembly using the free hand to pull the faceplate away. As mentioned, once the faceplate is removed, there is nothing protecting the tweeter ribbon.

I used small pieces of a dynamat clone to wedge the tweeter in the cabinet hole. When Brian has the brackets, I will secure the tweeters the right way.

Bob

ctviggen · « **Reply #6 on:** 19 Jan 2006, 02:46 pm »

Any idea when the brackets will be available? I'd like to do this all at one time, if possible.

Pocketchange · « **Reply #7 on:** 10 Feb 2006, 11:58 pm »

Where can we view a modified 626 ?