[audioferret]

Greetings,

  I am thinking about purchasing one of your HT3 kits "for Christmas."  Will it ruin the sound to build the kit in a slightly different cabinet with the Extremis driver facing forward?

  Also, I would like to assemble the crossover in a separate box so I can actively power the speaker later on with an electric crossover.  How much extra would it be to supply two extra sets of binding posts?

[RAW]

The HT3 can not be made into a forward firing 3way.
Doing so would require a new crossover.The slim floor stander is why we have designed it this way.
You would have no advantage to place the Extremis on the front as we have tested the similar model and the side firing we found this could load rooms better as the woofers could be placed to fire against a wall or away from a wall.Room depending

Design is the same for the new HT8 as well for the side firing woofers.

[audioferret]

I guess that would make an active crossover more difficult.    Does an external crossover adversely affect the sound as well?

[RAW]

No
You can mount the crossover extrenal.This does not effect anything.
What you could do is make a small base with removable back plates and have the crossovers slid out the back of the bases!

[audioferret]

...What you could do is make a small base with removable back plates and have the crossovers slid out the back of the bases!

Yep, that's what I had in mind.  I want the speakers to be about 45-50" high.  The speaker would look good with a stand and it would make upgrading and triamping easier.

How much if the kit is tweaked to leave out the terminal cups and replace then with four sets of binding posts per speaker?  Do you have crossover boards or should I just make them from Radioshack?

[RAW]

Sounds like you have done a little pre planning which is good.

Adding 4 binding posts to replace the 2 terminal cup.
will add $15.00

Now crossover boards.
We do not believe in them as a lot of issues happen with PCB boards.
High breakage
Vibration of parts

We perfer to bond all the parts to a peice of 1/4" plywood with hot glue.
When all parts are connected and tested we cover all (NOT THE RESISTORS) the parts with a hot glue or a silicone.
Hot glue is quick to set and a lot easier to use than a Silicone.

Covering all the parts (less the resistor) stops any chance of a harmonic vibration coming from the crossover parts.

The kit comes with complete lay out of the parts and easy to assemble if you just follow the layout as provided.

But if you want PCB's that is really up to you but we perfer not to use them.

Point to point solder along with a 1/4" plywood  for the crossover parts to attach to works the best.

[audioferret]

Well, it looks like I have approval!    

  So, how would you like me to request the kit package with the extra connectors?  Should I just give you a call tomorrow?
  Also, in your web site, it mentions the Ice Absorbtion material that is exclusive to your speakers.  Does that come with the kit or do I have to source my own?

[audioferret]

It looks like 14 pairs of binding posts for this project...

 

[brj]

You might want to consider eliminating some of the binding posts on the crossover box by simply passing the speaker wires out through a small hole in the enclosure.  Just attach spades (or whatever) to the ends that connect to the speakers.  Even if you decide you want to change wire later, it would be easy to do provided that you make the crossover enclosures easy to open.  (For example, attach the bottom with 4 screws or something.)  This change alone would eliminate 6 pairs of posts, assuming you have 2 speakers with connections for the tweeter, mid and woofer.

You can take it one step further by passing out attached wires for the connections on the amp side of the crossover enclosure as well.  If you already have speaker cables that you want to use, however, this might not be as attractive an idea.

[RAW]

Yes you are welcome to give a call and we can talk about the final product.

For a external crossover
Use 3 pair of posts on the bottom of each cabinet one for the tweeter,mid,woofer then wire to your crossover.

If you are doing this you will need 6 posts in total.

Now the RAW ICE.
Yes this is our product.
We ahve done a lot of reseach into absorbtion and damping material and a lot of the product out have a interanl volume loss factor as well they have a absorbtion factor so high that some sound waves are absorbed completly with some products.
Really any product that has a top layer on the foam(black or white any colour) will have a loss factor.
Our product simple yet effective
1" high density high compression rate of foam uses a barrier we have put on, this side is put to the wall of the cabinet.Leaving the foam to the driver.

Over all the most effective for less money.

Really if a cabinet is build with enough bracing you should only ever have to use a foam for acoustic absorbtion not a material for vibration damping.


Back to the RAW ICE yes you can order that as well for the cabinets.

We can put together a final package based on your needs no problem at all.

As of today we can now offer Sonicap upgrades on our speakers and kits, we did a few before but now can offer it to all customers.

Now last we can add a Sonicap cap upgrade with Mills resistors to the HT3 on the Tweeter network with a stacked Sonicap and Solen on the mid (this is done to keep the upgrade to Sonicap cost lower yet retain some of the Sonicap Advantages)
Cost for the HT3 upgrade to Sonicap $145.00 for the pair.

A very good upgrade cost for the dollar.