[flocchini]

Is anyone out there considering a CHIME with a 6SN7 replacing the 12AU7? I did this with my Cornet2 and would go in in this direction with a little prompting. Thanks
Bob

[hagtech]

Here's what I'd try for a hybrid CHIME.

1)  Change V401 to 6SN7 (wires to socket)
2)  Change R424, R425 to 2.4k
3)  Change R431 to 510
4)  Change R423 to 1.8 [[edit]]

That should rebias the circuit for good operation.  Make sure you double check the resulting heater voltage.  It might need some tweaking.

jh

[flocchini]

Thanks Jim

[flocchini]

Jim:


Should R434 be R423?


Thanks

Bob

[hagtech]

Oh yeah, 423.  I'll fix the post so nobody will know what we're talking about.

jh

[flocchini]

My hybrid Chime is up and running. Thanks Jim

Ended up with R423 at 1.4 ohms to get the 6.3 V on the heater.

Stock except upgraded caps (Auricaps for bypass and Cardas at the output); upgraded RCAs for output and a RCA and BNC at the input.

Initial reaction is that this unit is absolutely a keeper. A nice compliment to the hybrid Cornet2. Sound is detailed and smooth and there is a nice punch.

More as it breaks in.

Also am looking forward to trying the USB input

[flocchini]

Tried to use the USB option with the Chime

Sony Vaio recognized USB device

With iTunes tried to play both stored music and a CD
RCV LED green
PLL LED RED.
No sound

Ideas please !!!

Thanks in advance

CHIME with Acurus transport sounds fantastic

[hagtech]

Red LED means it has been resampled to 48kHz.  Software or operating system getting in the way.  Could just be a dialog box setting.  Maybe you can try WMP or Roxio or ?

jh

[flocchini]

Jim

Have tried both. No luck

In the Sound control panel there is an option for sampling rate. Choices are good, better, best. I'll try to find out what that means.

Thanks

[flocchini]

Jim:

I triedFoobar with ASIO output. This supposedly bypasses the kmixer.
Still no sound.

Could there be a hardware problem?  Something I could measure?


Thanks

Bob

[hagtech]

Forget, did I sell you a chassis?  If so, the dang "USB" and "CD1" labels are backwards.  Change select switch.  Then again, you'd only have green light on left side if CD1 had a valid input.

Can't think of anything else right now except to try a different computer.  Or maybe you can check the output from USB chip.  The dc voltage (using a DVM) on one side of C507 should be about 1.6V.  Probably not the case, as computer recognizes chip.  Check the 220 ohm values.  One other customer reported DigiKey supplying the wrong value.

One possibility is that the clock in the PC, or at least the clock on the USB inside the PC is off by more than +/-100ppm, the redbook standard.  USB works over a much wider range, but the HagDac will not.  It only locks to under 100ppm sources.

Do you have a scope?

jh

[flocchini]

Jim:

Made my own chassis, The other two positions work fine.

I do have access to a scope.

Also I bought my crystal from Jameco. Digi-key no longer carried the part you recommended. I vaguely remember see 12Mhz on the top.

Today I was even thinking of buying one of your assembled HAGUSB boxes. That surely would be a quick way to check the hardware angle.

Will check resistors and the voltage you mentioned.

Thanks

[hagtech]

Could be the 12M xtal is off.  I doubt it.  Not sure sure if the recovered Spact locking signal is referenced to the PC clock or the local clock.  They're both 12MHz for USB.  

With a scope, maybe you can check the CLK test point on the HAGDAC?  Hard to access.  It will be 256x the recovered data, or 11.2896MHz for 44.1k, 12.288MHz for 48k data.  Don't think there is any other easy way to check rate.  

I could send a HAGUSB for testing?

jh

[flocchini]

Jim:

Let me see if I can find a MAC owner?

Thanks for the support

Bob