Do you know what the Totem Beak is for?

michaelv · « **on:** 14 Aug 2005, 08:31 pm »

thanks.

RichardS · « **Reply #1 on:** 14 Aug 2005, 10:08 pm »

according to Totem:
"Tuning pods that control resonances and allow for better driver integration. Results in imaging and dynamic improvement."

you can find more info here:

http://www.totemacoustic.com/english/products/access_beak.htm

Zero · « **Reply #2 on:** 14 Aug 2005, 11:26 pm »

Resonance control.

The beak isnt for pretty looks, and is actually a well engineered tool.

In order to take full advantage of a beak - make sure it is being used on a speaker that has medium to low density cabs. Run your finger-tips along the top of your speaker while its playing tunes.... and find the spot where there is the most resonance built up, and place the Beak there. I wouldnt expect night/day differences, but you should notice a gain in performance.

Cheers

suits_me · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 Aug 2005, 02:02 am »

These have always struck me as very tweaky, and expensive.

Based on the descriptions so far, why wouldn't a small paperweight work just as well on cabinet resonances? For about one fifteenth the money.

And while I realize there are a lot of effects which cannot be explained empirically, I can't see how any diffraction effects from the beak's shape can really work when the beaks are placed so far out of the polar radiation area of the speaker at mid and high frequencies....

michaelv · « **Reply #4 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 04:55 am »

Thanks for the reply. I can't believe that the beak is around $100 /pair at the dealer.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 05:15 am »

Quote from: michaelv

Thanks for the reply. I can't believe that the beak is around $100 /pair at the dealer.

And you would use two pair...

Quote

The Beak was developed to control parasitic vibrations that occur on top of a speaker cabinet. These resonances negatively impact speaker performance, specifically the lobbing action in tweeters. Placing a Beak on any speaker helps to control vibration, provides and reduces interaction between speaker, tweeter and enclosure. Much thought and a year of research were poured into the development of the Beak. Its precisely defined contour was carefully designed and requires extremely accurate fabrication. If any of its properties were altered, it would impact the flux created within and render the unit ineffective

The Shape
The Beak is precision milled in a strictly prescribed form. The shape controls cabinet resonance ad vibration. The Beak acts as a channel for these vibrations , moving through its cavity to the discharge point on top.
Like the beak on a bird or whale channels sound, this Beak channels the negative effects of cabinet vibration. Hence its shape and name.

Placement
The placement of the Totem Acoustic 'Beak' on a smaller speaker is usually towards the outer front or rear corner of a speaker. Fine tuning the location through experimentation is the key to find the best location to maximize imaging, extension, and musical impression. A pair of Beaks can be used on each speaker for improved results.

$100.00pr

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They do show up on Audiogon every so often...for less $$.[/list:u]

kfr01 · « **Reply #6 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:33 pm »

Sounds like an overpriced bandaid for poor cabinet design to me... Could be wrong.

michaelv · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 05:24 pm »

Uhm...i think i'll pass it. Right now, i have Totem Forrest and i like it the way it sounds and no more tweak...

The problem is i don't have the metal brigde between biding post. So i have to either create my own jumper or get another Straightwire cable which i currently own. Probably, i need to head to local bestbuy to get Monster cable 10 gauge for jumpers.

Thanks.

Bemopti123 · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 05:29 pm »

Mike, biwire and forget about the Monster jumpers, you should get the same sort of cable for jumpers as you use to connect the speakers to the amps. If you go crazy, you can see how some people splice up the ends of the cables and make them into biwires. that is if the cables do not have a crazy design.
or at the very least get a piece of cable and make your own jumpers between the binders. Experiment wiring your speakers either from the top set up binders or the bottom, to see what you like the best.

michaelv · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 06:11 pm »

Uhm...i think i'll pass it. Right now, i have Totem Forrest and i like it the way it sounds and no more tweak...

The problem is i don't have the metal brigde between biding post. So i have to either create my own jumper or get another Straightwire cable which i currently own. Probably, i need to head to local bestbuy to get Monster cable 10 gauge for jumpers.

Thanks.

michaelv · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 06:14 pm »

Quote from: Bemopti123

Mike, biwire and forget about the Monster jumpers, you should get the same sort of cable for jumpers as you use to connect the speakers to the amps. If you go crazy, you can see how some people splice up the ends of the cables and make them into biwires. that is if the cables do not have a crazy design.
or at the very least get a piece of cable and make your own jumpers between the binders. Experiment wiring your speakers either from the top set up binders or the bottom, to see what you like the best.

I don't think i can split straightwire Rhapsody i have and I can't find the same piece of cable of Straightwire. The only option i have to get second pair of Straightwire Rhapsody for biwire. I have tried to use a pair of Canare that i made as diy to the top end and I don't like it as it's harsh , not natural , at least to the Forrest i have.

Bemopti123 · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 06:27 pm »

Check the Moon Audio cables, check the jumpers. That would be more than suitable for your situation. I think $70 is reasonable for quality built. The worst is to get excellent drivers and poop them with bad wires.

If you do not like them, I think there is a review period.

michaelv · « **Reply #12 on:** 18 Aug 2005, 06:46 pm »

ah...i found another pair of Straightwire Rhapsody which is exactly the same lenght and quality from the one i have. So i'm going to bi-wire it.

Last night i tried different jumpers (diy) and I didn't like the sound . It's bottle neck , period. Then i tried to biwire to upper end with the Canare and the high is harsh. But when i switch Straightwire to the upper end, the high is clearer and smooth. So I end up getting another pair of Straightwire , of course used...

I'll post the review once i get it.

By the way, i don't like the sound from silver cable at all as i made two pairs of jumper from the silver wire which my i got it from my friend.

clubmyke · « **Reply #13 on:** 20 Aug 2005, 05:10 pm »

i have a pair for my audio physic libra and they make a minor improvement..picked up 4 of them on audiogon for $100...

JLM · « **Reply #14 on:** 21 Aug 2005, 10:53 am »

Beaks are for quacks.

Upstateaudio · « **Reply #15 on:** 21 Aug 2005, 04:13 pm »

Watch it. I have a pair of beaks so I have to duck your remarks.