[John Casler]

OK, if the SR71 (Black Hole 5) option was not enough, get this:

Big B, has now approved the upgrade of the Cardas Patented Binding Posts for some models.

And guess how much it costs?

Well on the the RM30, the RM40 and the RM/x for the present, it will cost you a cool $0.

Yes, that is correct, it is a $0 cost upgrade for the time being for all new orders of the RM30, RM40, and RM/x.

On the 626R is will be a $50 option.

I will have pricing on these for the rest of the model line including subs soon.

For those not familiar with the Cardas Patented Binding posts look here:

http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&content_id=10&pagestring=Patented+Binding+Posts

And this is what they look like:



For those who like, using bare wire, or spades many feel there is nothing better.

Looks like Big B, listens to his fans

[ctviggen]

That's similar to what's on my Jeff Rowland amp, and they are by far the best binding posts I've used.  But I also use nothing but spades for amp and speaker connections.

[CornellAlum]

Any info on doing this onesself to bring current speaks up to par without shipping?

Thanks

D--------

[JoshK]

CPBP rock!

[ScottMayo]

Any info on doing this onesself to bring current speaks up to par without shipping?

Thanks

D--------

I second that request!

This makes the RM/x not just the coolest, clearest speaker I have ever heard/owned/loved, but now it will be the easiest to hook up. It just doesn't get better than this. Brian, you are the Man.

[woodsyi]

If I am going to do surgery again with BH and CPBP, is there an upgrade available for the pots as well?

[John Casler]

Any info on doing this onesself to bring current speaks up to par without shipping?

Thanks

D--------

Looks rather simple, but I haven't tried it.

Look here for install steps:

http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&pagestring=Patented+Binding+Posts&content_id=10

[John Casler]

If I am going to do surgery again with BH and CPBP, is there an upgrade available for the pots as well?

Nothing from VMPS except the DEQX and TACT units, which we are working on.

[CornellAlum]

Any info on doing this onesself to bring current speaks up to par without shipping?

Thanks

D--------

Looks rather simple, but I haven't tried it.

Look here for install steps:

http://www.cardas.com/content.php?area=oem&pagestring=Patented+Binding+Posts&content_id=10

Thanks for the link.  I am going to do the bh5 and binding posts thing next weekend and I will report back with pictures for anyone that is interested.  Is there a thread anywwhere on yanking out the binding posts that are in there or is it a lot easier than I think?

D---

[StevenACNJ]

FYI

Cardas Patented Binding posts are not drop in replacements for standard binding posts. A centerd third hole has to be drilled.

[CornellAlum]

Blah, I am not drilling holes in the MLS finish, no way no how unless it could be done undestructively which I highly doubt seeing as I haven't drilled a , uhh, nevermind

[John Casler]

Blah, I am not drilling holes in the MLS finish, no way no how unless it could be done undestructively which I highly doubt seeing as I haven't drilled a , uhh, nevermind

Actually they are already drilled, for the original posts, but I doubt if the holes match.

You might need to fill and redrill.  But in any event, it is in the binding post recess, not the cabinet.

However 626Rs might be "tricky" since Brian said there is a $50 upcharge to put the Cardas in them.

[ctviggen]

Plus, the back of the Cardas post will (should) hide any holes.  I'd take the Cardas over the current set of posts any day, just because the Cardas are easier to use.  Now, if Brian could move the posts away from the cutout in the cabinet and make them closer to each other, I'd be in heaven!

[ScottMayo]

Plus, the back of the Cardas post will (should) hide any holes.

If the holes are in a sealed portion of the cabinet, fill them with caulk or putty before putting the new posts in. Don't assume that it will be air tight otherwise, or that air tight doesn't matter.

A few years back I was working on my old Infinities, and I took a cooked driver out. I put the mounting plate back in the enclosure with the speaker hole blocked, so I could still run the speaker without a huge hole in it.

I turned it on and nearly fell over in shock. There was a *hideous*, *loud* squealing in the room, like a puppy that had just been stepped on - a nasty, warbling, sobbing kind of sound, that varied but didn't stop.

It took a minute to work out what had happened - when I put the mounting plate back in, I'd forgotten it had had 4 small screw holes in it that held the missing driver in place. These 4 small holes were now open to the interior. Whenever the woofer moved, there was a lot of pressure differential built up, and it all vented though those 4 little holes. They made 4 very efficient whistles, almost but not quite matched in pitch.

Very, very nasty experience. I thought for sure I'd badly wrecked something.  

[CornellAlum]

I'll take a look.  That comment I made yesterday was about to turn out really badly.  I will post my thouights over the weekend.

[Bob Wilcox]

John

I sent my drivers from my old RM-40 cabinets to Brian a while back for installation in the MLS cabinets. After desoldering the binding post connections , I was able to knock out the mounting plates with a mallot. As I recall the mounting plate was hot glued to the cabinet interior.

Any chance that these binding posts could be offered premounted on the plate so the whole assembly could be retrofited with hot glue?

Thanks

Bob

[JoshK]

Bob,

When I recently revamped my RM40's I built out a new "mounting plate" and I put the xo's external.  I just used a screwdriver to pry off the plate and then wood glued and hot glued (for sealant) the new one on.  It an idea for someone willing to "mess around" with theirs.