[YEEEEGZ]

I'm having a hell of a time finding a nylon or plastic top hat for my next speaker build that'll fit the mount I'm working with.

It needs to be 35mm in diameter and at least 83mm deep. I can find a lot plastic or nylon top hats that are 35mm in diameter, but they are all way too shallow for my mount. I'm looking everywhere but coming up short (literally). I have found some metal ones that fit the bill, but none that aren't conductive.

Any of yous guys have insight on locating one? Surprised this is difficult!

[Peter J]

Perhaps it would help if you showed us a photo of what you're after. I don't know what a "top hat" is as it relates to speakers.

[YEEEEGZ]

Perhaps it would help if you showed us a photo of what you're after. I don't know what a "top hat" is as it relates to speakers.

My mistake!

It’s an insert that allows the speaker to be pole mounted. It looks like a lil top hat:

[Peter J]

Still kinda guessing. You have a pole that consists of a 35mm pipe that the "stem" fits into? Assuming the flange screws to bottom of speaker? Why not metal? Why the specific length? Maybe this is common parlance to some, but not me.

[YEEEEGZ]

Still kinda guessing. You have a pole that consists of a 35mm pipe that the "stem" fits into? Assuming the flange screws to bottom of speaker? Why not metal? Why the specific length? Maybe this is common parlance to some, but not me.

Yep, that’s right. The length requirement is because it needs to be fully inserted to the pole and that’s how long it is, the non-conductive element is me just wanting to preserve the integrity of the signal path it’s in proximity to (as paranoid as that may be).

[Peter J]

I think I get the mechanics of it, but I sure don't see how the material has any bearing on the "signal path" Search tells me this is common on PA gear, but I fail to see how speaker mounting apparatus would be relevant. I assume you've searched in the PA or DJ world? I suspect to meet all your criteria, having something made may be your best bet.

[YEEEEGZ]

I think I get the mechanics of it, but I sure don't see how the material has any bearing on the "signal path" Search tells me this is common on PA gear, but I fail to see how speaker mounting apparatus would be relevant. I assume you've searched in the PA or DJ world? I suspect to meet all your criteria, having something made may be your best bet.

Ok, so check it out, Peter:


This is the wall mount that I'm using to secure the speaker to my office wall (a requirement). The flange needs to fit that pole which is a lil too long for what I can find online. The signal path paranoia is that the flange is going to run in close proximity to the crossover inside the speaker so it'd be preferable if it's non-metal. I think the effects of using a metal top hat would be negligible, but I figure if I'm going to put the effort into building something I want to carry with me for the rest of my days that it should be done in the least compromising way.

You're probably right about doing it myself. I need to hit up a buddy with a 3d printer. I was just fishing if anyone else had this issue. 

[FullRangeMan]

Check the know Sorbothene rubber feet.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=a45e90ee3e925b06&udm=2&fbs=AIIjpHydJdUtNKrM02hj0s4nbm4yAFb4PvhjIUcDtaFHkK_tyqfYVx0lCBcCX38sg5LqgWMbBDpOpi-b87KRYaAlAzJqMvLYsSu7hLLf25XWG1b4MAgPyc1ug6JsIpJm1G3aQiWZTaKZzfh1NEo3N7fkmU5OVqsdysm_VjEbOxIWse96FIUUJ_nFoYcIEXakOTYZBXoaVPG1HDU3Qoq6tc66C5RGgAXePQ&q=sorbothane+feet&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiu48uhjLGQAxU1L7kGHfMcNd4QtKgLegQIFBAB&biw=1109&bih=748&dpr=1.15

[Peter J]

Ok, this makes more sense to me now.  What about ditching the post altogether and install a threaded insert in bottom of speaker and bolt directly to horizontal arm? I did this with NX Studios and stands. If you 3D print, I'd think I'd recommend something reinforced with fiber. PET-G or Nylon.

[Peter J]

BTW, that's a beefy looking bracket. Where did it come from?

[Peter J]

Or you could cut the post down pretty easily. Or something along those lines:

[YEEEEGZ]

Or you could cut the post down pretty easily. Or something along those lines:

That’s a pretty bitchin’ solution, with some threaded inserts on the cabinet… I do like that idea a lot, but it’s more cost prohibitive… I have some things to think about.

[YEEEEGZ]

I guess another idea would be to mount the shorter plastic flange inside the cabinet walls and drill a 35mm hole through the bottom… that would add another 19?mm to the depth and would probably work, but the placement wouldn’t work for me because the flange, if centered on the speaker, would be between two cabinets squashed together. Maybe I have to go the threaded insert route… Thanks for the idea! 

[YEEEEGZ]

After some thought I'm going to do a combination of a couple m8 inserts in the cabinet in addition to the top hat across a 1/4" aluminum bar spanning the horizontal axis of the mount... Anything protruding through the cabinet from the top hat I'll just epoxy paint the hell out of. I'll report back in a couple months to let you know how it went. Thanks for the ideas!