[YEEEEGZ]

Hey guys, last summer I built a pair of NX-Studio speakers and I love them. I'm trying to make it a habit to build some new GR speakers every summer. This year I am gonna attempt the X-On Wall speakers and next year try my hand at assembling the Double-Troubles. I just received the flatpack today and before I start gluing and clamping things together I thought it would be smart to solicit some good advice. I wasn't able to find many threads about assembling these things, anyone know a good order of operations? It is a very angular design!

Does this dry assembly look correct? I know it is a bit wonky, just figuring it out.









Wasn't sure about this gap that I circled, maybe due to the assembly not being tight or maybe that piece isn't supposed to be there, or I should epoxy the gap?

Any advice about the order of things is deeply appreciated, I am pretty stupid, thank you, guys!

[Peter J]

Something is not right there. Either bottom piece is cut narrow or cabinet not fully going together. Compare bottom filler width dimension to that of backrail or top. They should be the same width. If it's still mocked up, you could also measure from table to cabinet side top and bottom to check if there's slope top to bottom. All references are to cabinet the way it's oriented when installed.

If I'm looking at it right, that piece is a filler so not structural, so it could be filled with no adverse effect, I suspect, but you paid for the flat pack, right?

[YEEEEGZ]

Something is not right there. Either bottom piece is cut narrow or cabinet not fully going together. Compare bottom filler width dimension to that of backrail or top. They should be the same width. If it's still mocked up, you could also measure from table to cabinet side top and bottom to check if there's slope top to bottom. All references are to cabinet the way it's oriented when installed.

If I'm looking at it right, that piece is a filler so not structural, so it could be filled with no adverse effect, I suspect, but you paid for the flat pack, right?

It is the flat pack, but I could be experiencing user error, this is a better angle of the thing.







As you said, it does seem to act like a filler piece, I just wasn't sure what to do with it, if it was meant to be put there and filled or was just cut a little bit short. I think without it there it gives more room for the tube connectors.





Looking at the plans, I thought it was maybe the "F" labeled on there? Maybe it's better to just do without the piece though if it's not necessary.

I can see this being a bit of a problem later on. The tube connectors do not leave much room between them and the wall if at all. I think the binding post version of this design has a counter-sink in the back whereas this does not. Am I tripping?

[Peter J]

Assuming all else fits together right and is glued together well, I'd say that piece is really only providing a bit of extra wall bearing surface. It sure looks like proximity to wall will be a problem with the tube connectors. I've only built these with binding post cup, and even with the recessed area it was tight but doable.
I'd say your choices are either: 1. recess the tube connectors similar to binding posts  2. extend the back for a little more clearance  3. have a fairly large hole in wall to accommodate wiring. Option 3 could be trimmed with recessed AV box but placement would be critical.

[YEEEEGZ]

Assuming all else fits together right and is glued together well, I'd say that piece is really only providing a bit of extra wall bearing surface. It sure looks like proximity to wall will be a problem with the tube connectors. I've only built these with binding post cup, and even with the recessed area it was tight but doable.
I'd say your choices are either: 1. recess the tube connectors similar to binding posts  2. extend the back for a little more clearance  3. have a fairly large hole in wall to accommodate wiring. Option 3 could be trimmed with recessed AV box but placement would be critical.

I think you're right, Peter, I am going to need to recess the holes for the tube connectors in order for them to be feasible. Would you happen to have a suggestion for a bit that would do the trick for a guy with just a bog-standard handheld drill? I think that once it is glued together I can also grind out a little half moon through the bottom so the wires can hang down since putting a hole in my wall to funnel wire is unfortunately not in the cards. Thank you for the help!

[Peter J]

I think you're right, Peter, I am going to need to recess the holes for the tube connectors in order for them to be feasible. Would you happen to have a suggestion for a bit that would do the trick for a guy with just a bog-standard handheld drill? I think that once it is glued together I can also grind out a little half moon through the bottom so the wires can hang down since putting a hole in my wall to funnel wire is unfortunately not in the cards. Thank you for the help!

So wires will be surface mounted and come up from below? One thing you could do would be to drill holes at the back of panel E for the Tube Connectors to face down. Thus you'd run wires through existing holes and plug them off with either flexible caulk or moldable putty.  Outside of that a scoop (or 2) could be cut where E meets wall with a cylindrical burr in a Dremel or die grinder. Even a drill would work, although not near the RPM.

[YEEEEGZ]

So wires will be surface mounted and come up from below? One thing you could do would be to drill holes at the back of panel E for the Tube Connectors to face down. Thus you'd run wires through existing holes and plug them off with either flexible caulk or moldable putty.  Outside of that a scoop (or 2) could be cut where E meets wall with a cylindrical burr in a Dremel or die grinder. Even a drill would work, although not near the RPM.

Funny you should say that because, at first glance of the pieces, I figured the holes for the tube connectors were going to be on the bottom. I think that is actually the way to go, and plug the existing ones!

...Though tube connectors can have a tendency to not be the tightest fitting things against gravity, but some blue tack should sort it out.

[Killian Smith]

Looks suspiciously like your F piece was clipped by the exact length of the tool used to cut it. Send me an email if you'd like a replacement! (dentonwoodworkers@gmail.com)

I'm not sure why I have those TC holes so low. While I bump it up, Ill add a little recess for them.

[Solarflares]

Looks suspiciously like your F piece was clipped by the exact length of the tool used to cut it. Send me an email if you'd like a replacement! (dentonwoodworkers@gmail.com)

I'm not sure why I have those TC holes so low. While I bump it up, Ill add a little recess for them.

A lightning quick, positive response.
You can’t grumble at that.

[YEEEEGZ]

Looks suspiciously like your F piece was clipped by the exact length of the tool used to cut it. Send me an email if you'd like a replacement! (dentonwoodworkers@gmail.com)

I'm not sure why I have those TC holes so low. While I bump it up, Ill add a little recess for them.

Hey Killian, that would be mondo cool, I actually sent you an email yesterday after Peter’s suggestions!

[YEEEEGZ]

Not much cool stuff happening, I had the day off from work today so I tried to think about all the things I forgot to do the last time I put the NX-Studios together sans glue.



I decided I would mount the tube connectors on the bottom and fabricate a little standoff holder to keep the male ends from falling out, I saw a post on here where someone had done that but I can't find it at the moment! I went ahead and drilled new holes for the tube connectors on the bottom while plugging the old holes on the back. I also decided where to mount the crossover and got that set... I'm not sure what else I may be missing before I do a little sanding, cleanup and attempt to glue these lil MC Eschers together...