[MattSelinger]

Best place I can think to get input on this is right here in the GR-Research community:

I have a 2020 Toyota Tundra and I want to keep the sound system as stock as possible while also doing a little to make the sound better.  Basic question is this... could I expect to hear more detail and clarity from the stock dash 2.75" speakers if I change the 100 uF electrolytic capacitors with a decent quality poly type capacitors and would adding a bypass capacitor help the cause?

More details for those interested:  The dash speakers are 2.75" paper cone speakers with a 100 uF garbage capacitor on the positive lead.  They are 4 ohm and my calculations say the 100 uF capacitor is doing a simple roll off around 200 Hz.  This particular vehicle has a center dash speaker (dual voice coil) that many folks on the Tundra forums suggest to disconnect.  I disconnected it and that definitely helped improve LT/RT separation.  Weird they put a "mono" speaker in the middle.  Also, the door speakers in the stock design is essentially a woofer that rolls off around 300-400 Hz. 

One thing I put some time into so far is applying sound dampening material to the doors.  This made a big improvement to the overall sound and quietness of the ride.  First time I have done this to a vehicle and I highly recommend it as a first step in any car sound improvements.

Much appreciation for sharing experience and thoughts to help.

Background:  I have built X-LS Encores, NX-Studios, Desktop Minis, and several Parts Express kits and I have modded/rebuilt several crossovers and heard the difference quality components and bypass capacitors make.  Many thanks to Danny, Hobbs, Ron - you guys have helped me to enjoy music and sound more than I could have without your "paying it forward" kindness.

[czechm8]

The sound deadening will help a lot.  I would put your money into some replacement drivers.  The stock JBL, or whatever Toyota is using are not good drivers.
Went through the same thing you are doing with my '05 Sequoia a couple decades ago - ended up scrapping the entire JBL system and built my own. 
I thinkt he bottom line is that those stock drivers wouldn't know the difference from a qualilty cap and a fire cracker.

Just recently wen through replacing all the drivers in my '18 Audi SQ5 with the B&O system.  Head unit and amps are quality, but the stock B&O drivers are cheap crap.  Made a huge difference.  It's actually enjoyable now!

[Early B.]

I would put your money into some replacement drivers.

Agreed 100%. If you want better sound, you gotta toss the garbage stock speakers. Don't waste time and money upgrading caps. 

Caution: you can easily go down the rabbit hole and add amps, subs, replace the head unit, etc. Next thing you know, you'll look up and your bank account has $2,500 less money in it. So if you want to keep the sound system as stock as possible, then "do nothing" is an excellent option.  If you feel you have to do something, then sound deadening will make an audible improvement.

[Doublej]

I too would toss the existing drivers. Check out the Crutchfield website for lots of great detailed information on upgrade options for your specific truck.

[toocool4]

It’s funny, even when you spent a lot of money on an expensive car like a BMW, Mercedes etc they only put cheap and nasty drive units in them.

[MattSelinger]

Much appreciation on the suggestions and comments.  Totally agree the existing drivers are cheap junk.   Replacement is a good idea but my concern is the stock head unit has some dsp stuff going on that is working to enhance the behavior of the cheap stock drivers.  Putting in good dash speakers could create a new problem of stock radio dsp doom.

Sound deadening is done.  That helped a ton and gave me the hope I could tweak the system instead of full replacement. 

I am choosing to experiment….  I am focusing on the 2.75” dash speakers.  I ordered new caps so I will test the stock speakers with decent quality capacitors to see what I can hear. I will also measure the stock speakers response and try to match their spec and curve with something new.    Then depending on that outcome, I will put in new speakers with the good caps. 

I will report what I find for those interested.

[czechm8]

Sounds like a good plan. 

[Tone Depth]

It seems to me that a mono center speaker probably evens out the sound left to right, and taking it out creates uneven sound levels. Think of it this way: left plus right equals mono.

This particular vehicle has a center dash speaker (dual voice coil) that many folks on the Tundra forums suggest to disconnect.  I disconnected it and that definitely helped improve LT/RT separation.  Weird they put a "mono" speaker in the middle. 

[MattSelinger]

It seems to me that a mono center speaker probably evens out the sound left to right, and taking it out creates uneven sound levels. Think of it this way: left plus right equals mono.

Good point Tone Depth.  With the stock "mono" speaker in the center of the dash the experience is a "wall of sound" from the front with almost no stereo separation (meh).  Disconnecting the center speaker changed the sound to a much more perceptible left and right sound field... more enjoyable for my listening experience. The stock door speakers are woofers running from about 250 hz down.  No real stereo separation comes to you from the doors in this stock design.

[vondy]

I have no experience with these guys but some folks in various Toyota forums like them.

https://oemaudioplus.com/toyota/#dica_divi_carouselitem_13

Seem to be high quality and plug and play for the most part.

The systems are design for the specific vehicle.

[czechm8]

I put a system from them in my FR-S.  They are great!  About as Plug n Play as you can get.
I would go for it if they make components for your vehicle.

[Digi-G]

I've done something similar as I wanted it to LOOK like it was stock.  I left the head unit and replaced all the speakers, 4 in my case.

I also added an amp.  I don't think you're doing new speakers any favors by driving them with the 5-7 watts that a stock head unit delivers.  New speakers along with a new 100-150 watt amp was magical.

[MattSelinger]

I've done something similar as I wanted it to LOOK like it was stock.  I left the head unit and replaced all the speakers, 4 in my case.

I also added an amp.  I don't think you're doing new speakers any favors by driving them with the 5-7 watts that a stock head unit delivers.  New speakers along with a new 100-150 watt amp was magical.

Digi-G - Can you give a little more detail on your method?  The 2020 Tundra (non-JBL) has dash speakers (2.75") run from the head unit.  Also there are rear door tweeters that are run from the head unit.  Then there is a stock amp under the passenger seat that runs the 4 door speakers which seem to be crossed over around 300 hz for the front and not sure what frequency the backs are low passed.

Did you rewire all speakers from a new amp under the seat?

[MattSelinger]

I have no experience with these guys but some folks in various Toyota forums like them.

https://oemaudioplus.com/toyota/#dica_divi_carouselitem_13

Seem to be high quality and plug and play for the most part.

The systems are design for the specific vehicle.

Thank you for sharing this Vondy...  They have a system for my vehicle and it looks like a well thought out system.  Price tag looks to be around $1,600 which does not meet the WAF (wife approval factor) and it also violates the 3KIC budget calculations (3 kids in college).  Ha Ha! 

[Digi-G]

Digi-G - Can you give a little more detail on your method?  The 2020 Tundra (non-JBL) has dash speakers (2.75") run from the head unit.  Also there are rear door tweeters that are run from the head unit.  Then there is a stock amp under the passenger seat that runs the 4 door speakers which seem to be crossed over around 300 hz for the front and not sure what frequency the backs are low passed.

Did you rewire all speakers from a new amp under the seat?

I had an installer do the work.  It was a 2005 Jeep Liberty.  In my case they installed the amp on the back of one of the rear seats - I didn't have room underneath the seat.  The seat was still able to lay down.  Pretty sure they were able to plug in to the factory plug from the radio/head unit.  And yes, all of the speakers were wired directly from that new amp.  Mostly, I didn't want to run all the wiring, including the power line from the amp that went directly to the battery (iirc).  That was a heavier wire and trickier to conceal.

I no longer have that vehicle but I was very happy with the install and thrilled with the sound.  The amp and speakers were Infinity / Kappa.  The amp and speakers were Infinity / Kappa.  Four speakers and a single 4 channel amp.  Price around US$1500, maybe US$1600, including installation.  Almost 20 years ago!

Good luck with your project.