[BikeFi10]

I was going to wait till further into the mod before posting, but a question arose plus Im open to any advise along the way. Im only upgradeing caps and maybe inductor.
I made diy stands awhile back which prohibit me from pulling sock up as others have done. I cut out sock in back to access XO. Plan is to make a wood plate to cover hole.

My question is do the 5 solder points on the XO board go thru to the front side? I cannot see front side of panel due to sock where XO is and unfortuneately, I cannot fully  replace wires as they are spaded on front side of speaker.

2nd question, the XO will be external due to the physically larger caps. Should I use the same 16 awg pvc insulated wire or would there be any benefit to use upgrade wire like  OFC 12 awg Airlock insulated? This will add about an extra 4 feet of wire per speaker.



Ill try to post pix, but that doesnt always workout here. Sorry if theyre sideways.

[BikeFi10]

Pix

[wgallupe]

Hi,

The wires do not go through the XO board. They are literally sitting in a puddle of solder.

I don't think it's the end of the world to leave the original wires from the solder joints to the driver terminals. For the 4 foot distance to the external XO I would probably go with 14 guage.

I highly recommend upgrading the inductors while you're at it.

You can see my LRS XO in this thread:

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=190211.0

[BikeFi10]

Better view

[BikeFi10]

Wgallupe... thanks.. Nice xo mod on your LSRs
It definately would be easier to tie into those solder points. I wanted to try to eliminate any extra connection points.

[audiobliss]

You should consider something like this, I built these years ago for my MG12s. I separated the high and low sections so they could be biwired with outboard crossovers. A bit of work, but worth it.

[BikeFi10]

Audiobliss... Very nice, but that is beyond my plan plus I do not have 2 amps for a bi setup.

Your stand weights are much more classy than the workout weights on mine, lol.

Im considering wgallupe's  advise and looking into inductors, but cant seem to find what I think is a good upgrade. Neither Parts Express or Parts Connexion have them. Im looking for 1.4 mH 16 awg air core wire wound. No oversea supplier.
Any suggestions?

[audiobliss]

You don't need two amps, just biwire cables,  or build it with one pair in for regular cable but still separate the highs and lows coming out.
I don't know any source for the inductor,  it's been awhile. Try asking on the DIY  forums.

[wgallupe]

You don't need two amps, just biwire cables,  or build it with one pair in for regular cable but still separate the highs and lows coming out.
I don't know any source for the inductor,  it's been awhile. Try asking on the DIY  forums.

Check out Madisound. It's OK if the inductance value isn't spot on. Going higher value mH is better than smaller. what's more important for Maggies is the DCR value. To achieve low DCR like the stock iron core inductor you will need to go thicker guage. Have a look at the link below for example and make note of the DCR value in comparison to what you would be removing from the Maggie. My inductors are 12 guage.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-12-awg/goertz-cf1.4-12-awg-copper-foil-inductor/?srsltid=AfmBOoqGDg5rW3-3h4jmlexvNtlbOBL1HLbah_mcYyGat1YtzEcsr6Km

[wgallupe]

I meant to reply to BikeFi10. Sorry about that...

[BikeFi10]

Yes, I was just reading old posts about inductors and Madi Sound was linked. I talked to a guy at Parts Connexion and he said they could make exactly what I need for no extra cost.
I know the existing inductor is 1.4 mH as labeled. Looks about 16 or 18 AWG which specs at a supplier show DCR is 0.24 ohms.
I am going to disconnect it and try to measure it, but not sure how accurate that will be as its so low. I ll call Magnepan too. Maybe they would share that spec.

Next question is to go with wound wire or foil. Ive read foil may give a bit more detail where as wound may be warmer / lush. Of course the whole system plays its own part with that.

[BikeFi10]

Moving at a snails pace here, but ready to soldier connections now and realized I have dissimilar wire metals copper and I think aluminum. Is this a problem?
I know in plumbing this can be a problem.
Ill try to attach pic.

[NIGHTFALL1970]

Dissimilar materials might corrode.

[wgallupe]

Don't worry about it.

[BikeFi10]

Finally done. Literally started looking into this project one year ago. Cap, inductor and wire research, design changes, triple triple checking wireing, life obligations.

Magnepan uses nickel coated copper wire. I tried to soldier new crossover leads to stock soldier points but could not. Must need a very hot iron. I cut stock wires off soldier points and connected to new xo wires off board.
Pleasently surprised it all worked when powered up.

After 100 hours burn in I listened last night.
Obviously cannot do an AB test with this change, but I do believe overall SQ has improved. Havent reconnected tt yet which is the best quality from my Analog Production vinyl, but some HiRez streaming was very impressive. I would say maybe more open, less veiled. Most shocking was the deeper, louder bass. Crazy thing is I am running streamer/ dac directly to amp since I its running 24/7. Normally everything goes through pre amp and Rythmik servo sub.

Ill try to post pix. Doesnt always workout for me.

[BikeFi10]

Inside Mod XO.