[allensound]

Hi all,

As I mentioned in a previous post, I went ahead and bought the NX-Tremes with all the crossover upgrades.  That said, while waiting for my flat packs to ship, I decided I wanted to truly have the ultimate of ultimate speakers so I went out and bought some additional bypass capacitors for the circuits. 

The three options I picked up:

• Vishay-Roederstein Capacitor 0.015uF 100Vac-160Vdc MKP-1837 Series Metalized Polypropylene
• Vishay-Roederstein Capacitor 0.1uF 100Vac-160Vdc MKP-1837 Series Metalized Polypropylene
• Duelund Capacitor 0.1uF 630Vdc CAST-PIO-Sn/Cu Series Tinned Copper Foil Wax Paper Oil

I got the two different Vishay capacitors because they were dirt cheap, apparently do an admirable job of improving the sound quality as a bypass cap, and I was curious if I could tell any difference between the 0.1mF and the 0.015mF capacitors.  I think from various threads on this message board the advice is to stay between 0.01 and 0.1mF so that’s what I did. 

And then, if you’ve been to the https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html page, you’ll know why I picked up the Duelund Sn-Cu tinned copper foil wax paper capacitors - he loves them, and I think so does Hobbs….

With that said, what is the best way to make the crossover so that I can quickly and easily swap the capacitors with the least amount of impact on the overall sound.  I’m sure the “BEST” way would be to solder each new capacitor in and desolder and replace with the next one when ready…I’d really like to avoid that have have some sort of nice plug-n-play solution that will introduce the absolute least amount of sonic problems into the circuit? 

I think I saw Hobbs used some alligator clips?  I’d be down with that, but have had a hard time finding some “good” ones…anyone know where to get some really good ones?  Also, open to other ideas?

Thanks and super excited to get rolling on this!

[TRADERXFAN]

Yeah, if it were me, carefully twist around the lead with the bypass, and maybe add just a copper alligator clip to secure it.

[allensound]

Yeah, if it were me, carefully twist around the lead with the bypass, and maybe add just a copper alligator clip to secure it.

So my question on that - won’t I have solder on those leads when I connect the speaker wire, otherwise the speaker wire will oxidize?  I’m assuming if I solder the speaker wire to the main capacitor and then just twist the bypass around the tinned connection, that’ll definitely have a negative impact on the sound, yeah?

[TRADERXFAN]

Depending on where in the circuit it is, and if you use heatshrink on it or not... the leads are connecting to other components and are exposed. Look at some of the build threads and you can see what I mean.

[allensound]

Will do.  Thank you!

[TRADERXFAN]

Dont forget to use gloves or something to prevent oil transfer.

[allensound]

Great tip - will do that as well!

[David A]

How about Wago connectors like this speaker builder DIY'r, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dsp-three-way-open-baffle.412254/post-7861082.

[allensound]

How about Wago connectors like this speaker builder DIY'r, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dsp-three-way-open-baffle.412254/post-7861082.

I really like this idea - I did some googling and it sounds like the Wago internals are made of copper, which is what I want.  This looks very promising and seems like it'd have a pretty good, "direct" path from one wire to another

[allensound]

Thanks again David A - I will likely head up to Home Depot tomorrow and pick up a 10 pack of these...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WAGO-221-412-996-010-2-Wire-Lever-Nuts-Conductor-Compact-Splicing-Connectors-12-24-AWG-10-Pack-60343606/318073007

Should be perfect for what I'm trying to do.

[Early B.]

How about Wago connectors...

I use Wagos on my super tweeters to experiment with swapping resistors. They work great.

[billc]

I used copper alligator clips.  No solution short of soldering is optimal, but I was able to quickly swap and compare 4 different bypass caps, and the alligator clips did allow friends and me to hear important differences between caps.  I tested Mundorf variants and some other premium caps and landed on V-CAP CuTF capacitors.  YMMV.  Testing/comparing in-room was really helpful.

Good luck!
BillC

[allensound]

I use Wagos on my super tweeters to experiment with swapping resistors. They work great.

Excellent!  Thank you!

[allensound]

I used copper alligator clips.  No solution short of soldering is optimal…

Like you said, the ability to A/B compare things is huge - I think those Wago terminals will allow for the same easy switching and from what I can tell they are copper on the internal components as well so I will give that a shot..heck, I may. find some copper alligator clips and give those a run too - it’s not like any of this stuff is going to cost (altogether) what one of those Dueland caps cost! 

Thank you for your shared experience.

[TRADERXFAN]

Keep in mind something like an alligator clip isn't "passing" signal. it is more like the jacket of a cable, if anything. it "touches" the metal that actually passes the signal... so don't get too hung up on it.

[allensound]

Yup, not going to get hung up on this.  Went ahead and bought a 10 pack of Wago connectors - I think they’re perfect for this…

[E-Zee]

For temporary capacitor connections I've used wago connectors, which are certainly easy and secure. I have also used wooden clothespins. I'm reasonably happy with both options. Originally the clothespins were sometimes a pain when the wire leads wanted to roll around on the flat wooden jaws.  I found that rubbing a finetooth hacksaw blade a couple times across one face of the wooden clothespin created a tiny little kerf that the capacitor leads would naturally stay in making it much easier. The wago are a little easier probably,  but for some reason I still like the clothespins.

Oh yeah. Be prepared for endless hours of work trying to evaluate bypass caps. Below is a photo of one small bag of bypass caps, some of which I haven't gotten around to yet. There's one more bag with close to the same amount that I have already been through. I have a spiral bound with notes,  but its an overwhelming task,  and i have mixed feelings.
 In the photo, these are all different pairs of 0.1uf bypass except for the Deuland 0.01 at the bottom.  Whoever is undertaking bypass testing, good luck. Once you get done comparing 0.1 against each other in the same speaker,  then of course there is opportunity to compare 0.1 against 0.22 using same bypass and so on. At some point, you just have to pick something good and consistent and be happy with it. I think bypass vs no-bypass is a more reasonable discussion as sometimes it may not be possible to find differences between two similar bypass capacitors.

[allensound]

LOL - E-Zee - I feel your pain…part of me doing this is exactly what you described towards the end - to bypass or not to bypass, but it also sounds like you got hit with the same curiosity I have - does a 0.1uF sound the same as the 0.01uF even in the same capacitor line.  I figure you only live once…and rather than reading tons of flame wars on discussion boards, I’d just give it a go. 

Out of more curiosity - have you published your thoughts / notes anywhere?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

as sometimes it may not be possible to find differences between two similar bypass capacitors.

That was my conclusion between the Gen 3 Sonicap vs the JB bypass, the difference was slightly better clarity vs slightly better soundstage, and I do mean slightly.
I do need to get back into doing more comparisons at some point.

[mkrawcz]

That was my conclusion between the Gen 3 Sonicap vs the JB bypass, the difference was slightly better clarity vs slightly better soundstage, and I do mean slightly.
I do need to get back into doing more comparisons at some point.

Try these. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/940C30S1K-F?qs=wE98CiVmOw5ePFogrQjHvA%3D%3D