[ButchWillard]

I've built Danny's XLS Encores with upgraded crossovers and tube connectors.  I'm about the build a pair of CSS Audio Triton 1TD-X with superior crossovers for a separate area in our home.  I'd like to have the flexibility of both tube connectors and binding posts on the back of each speaker.  I'm not quite sure how to do this with good connectivity to each.  Jumper wire between the tube connectors and binding posts?  Separate wires from the crossover to each set of connectors?  Other?  Also, any suggestions on a good set of binding posts that are non-metallic.  The posts that come on the CSS Audio DIY kit have metallic nuts and washers while the post itself is non-metallic.  Will the metallic nuts and washers make an audible difference on these speakers.  Thank you!!!

[Zuman]

I did exactly what you're talking about with my highly-modified CSS Criton 2TDx speakers. I used a Dayton Audio mounting plate that accommodated two pairs of binding posts and mounted one pair of binding posts and one pair of tube connectors.
I duplicated the crossover feed wiring, running one pair to the tube connectors and another to the binding posts.
In all honesty, I can't hear a difference between the two types of connections.

[nlitworld]

Outside of tube connectors, some of the best I've found are KLE. Pricey, but super easy to solder and have a very nice sound.

[PumaCat]

I've built Danny's XLS Encores with upgraded crossovers and tube connectors.  I'm about the build a pair of CSS Audio Triton 1TD-X with superior crossovers for a separate area in our home.  I'd like to have the flexibility of both tube connectors and binding posts on the back of each speaker.  I'm not quite sure how to do this with good connectivity to each.  Jumper wire between the tube connectors and binding posts?  Separate wires from the crossover to each set of connectors?  Other?  Also, any suggestions on a good set of binding posts that are non-metallic.  The posts that come on the CSS Audio DIY kit have metallic nuts and washers while the post itself is non-metallic.  Will the metallic nuts and washers make an audible difference on these speakers.  Thank you!!!

It's not whether the binding posts have "metallic nuts and washers", but whether or not these fasteners are magnetic. You want to fasteners and connector parts that are non-magnetic.

[PumaCat]

Outside of tube connectors, some of the best I've found are KLE. Pricey, but super easy to solder and have a very nice sound.

If you need to use binding posts, as I have to do*, I'd recommend using WBT binding posts. (*-my speaker cables are Shunyata Research Alpha v2s, and are too heavy to use with tube connectors).

WBT is very widely-regarded in the speaker manufacturing industry, and makes a wide range of excellent binding posts with excellent engineering specifications and various price points. Link to WBT: http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/0763m.html

Here's the WBT - 0705Cu



Description:
WBT's flagship terminal with compact design. Equipped with filigree signal conductor made from pure copper that is directly gold plated and constructed on the nextgen principle. Grants highest conductivity. Fully insulated. CE and IEC conformant. Accepts 4-mm bananas, spades as well as crimped cable ends up to 4 mm² (11 AWG). Outer metal cap with platinum finish.

Also, if you need speaker cables, I'd also recommend Danny's GR-Research speaker cables, as well. Excellent design topology and excellent quality materials used for the conductor and dielectric (insulation), as well. Here's the higher-spec 24 strand cables, but 16-strand are also available at a lower price: https://gr-research.com/product/24-strand-diy-audiophile-speaker-cable/

[jmimac351]

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[Danny Richie]

If it were me, I would just replace those ferrous parts off of the cheap binding posts and just use them when connecting to something that has spades or banana on them. Then use the tube connectors as a primary connection.