[Tempus Fugit]

All,
I've started my NX Studio build.  My cabinets are glued and sealed with 3 coats of Lacquer spray.  I plan to veneer the sides and paint the baffle, back and bottom.  I have watched Peter R's videos on veneering the X-LS cabinets.  I can envision routering the back, top and bottom edges but how do you go about getting a clean edge between the baffle and front edge?  Any thoughts would  be appreciated!

[KTS]

All,
I've started my NX Studio build.  My cabinets are glued and sealed with 3 coats of Lacquer spray.  I plan to veneer the sides and paint the baffle, back and bottom.  I have watched Peter R's videos on veneering the X-LS cabinets.  I can envision routering the back, top and bottom edges but how do you go about getting a clean edge between the baffle and front edge?  Any thoughts would  be appreciated!

I want to be sure I understand what you are asking, when you are saying clean edge, are you referring to flush or straight? My apologies, but both will be challenging but different approaches.

[Tempus Fugit]

Sorry, I suppose straight and flush.  Describing action is more difficult then I realized.
My thought is to cut a side of the paper-backed veneer as straight as possible prior to gluing and then aligning it to the baffle/side interface during the gluing process.  the other sides I would router away.

[KTS]

Straight is pretty easy if you use a straight edge and a veneer saw and you will get it straight. Flush is not possible unless you can figure out how to take 1/16” off the sides in thickness while it is glued up. Typically I would have suggested to plane the sides 1/16” prior to assembly. You will have a 1/16” of an inch lip, no big deal. You can veneer the sides and front baffle all at one time, however if you do you will need to trim the veneer around the wave guide. I do not recommend this unless you are confident in router skills and the equipment you will be using. If you go that route, several members have done this and they were very helpful when I veneered my Studios.

Hope this helps you decide which route you want to go.

[Peter J]

Yet another way would be to put what's called a furniture joint at the junction of paint and veneer.  Essentially a small groove that disguises the height difference between the baffle and side. Straight edge veneer to edge of baffle then cut a groove with router or narrow saw kerf on table saw. Perhaps 1/16" or 3/32" deep. Paint it same color as baffle. The step will get lost in the shadows and look intentional.

Also, you'll want to scuff that lacquer up really well where you're applying veneer on cabinet. Assuming you're using Heat Lock it's best to apply to raw wood but that ship has sailed. I think it's still workable though if not ideal.

[KTS]

Excellent idea Peter! I thought guitar binding would look nice and it could be contoured at a slight slope to minimize the visual impact, and possibly add some aesthetics. However doing that would be too challenging for me to attempt.

[Tempus Fugit]

Thank you for the replies, I think with my limited woodworking knowledge and the fact that I have a table saw, the furniture joint will be my best option.  I’m wanting on veneer delivery and will post pics soon. Thanks again!!

[Fltguy]

I hope these pictures illustrate Peter's point. I did this on my NX's and I am very happy with the end product.

[BrandonB]

Very Nice!

[KTS]

Looks great!

[jmimac351]

This is good stuff.

What color are we gonna paint the baffle?

[Tempus Fugit]

Fltguy, thanks for the visual of a furniture joint.  How deep/wide did you cut your joints?  I see you also veneered the top of your speaker.   How did that go?   Did you use scraps from the sides?   What sequence did you follow, ie, top front first, top back next, etc?  Your speaker looks great!  The finish looks very nice.  I made the mistake of using lacquer to seal the sides and top and I’ve had to sand extensively to get back to the MDF base layer so the Heat glue will adhere. 

[Fltguy]

Let me preface my post, I am not a woodworker, rather I am a hack that can follow or copy other's great ideas. I used a palm router with a 3/32" straight flute router bit to make this furniture joint. The depth is also 3/32". A straight edge clamped to the speaker provided a guide for the palm router along the wall and baffle joint. Very straight forward cut with minimal jeopardy.

The veneer is 10 mil thick mahogany. Better Bond heat lock glue worked great for my novice skill set. I over thought the veneering steps. I did both sides first, then the back and finished with the top and bottom. I applied multiple coats of Odie's Oil and the end product is a uniform warm tone in a satin finish. I spent too much time worrying about a 10 mil piece of veneer. The brown finish covered any imperfection.

The baffles, I sprayed multiple coats of Spray MAX primer, sanding between coats. Final color is 2K Spray MAX hot rod satin black.

I am very happy with the final product.

I will post a photo of my just completed OB subs. The companion pieces to my NX's.

[corndog71]

For a hack you did an amazing job!   

[jmimac351]

Those turned out great!!!

[nlitworld]

Hey John, those look super clean. The spraymax aerosols really do make your job easy. Glad to hear things turned out well.