[Escott1377]

I have the Musical Paradies pre amp that uses a 6sn7 for each channel and then splits the 3rd tube between channels.  I have purchased the Ken Rad VT231, Hytron Vt231, some of the RCA 1950 blackplates, and the Tung Sols from the 50’s. 

Right now I am using a pair of the RCA and 1 Ken Rad.

I found the Hytron to sound too thin in my system, even with multiple combinations I could not get the sound that I wanted.

The current set up that I described sounds very good.  Mid range and soundstage are great, but does sound a bit “lush” and seems to leave out some of the higher frequencies.

I am considering a pair of the Raytheon VT231’s since I have read they sound somewhere between the RCA and KR.

Anyone have experience with these?  I have also read that the 1950’s Raytheon’s with brown base sound pretty darn good.

So I am looking for suggestions on the next pair that I purchase. 

I am also using a pair of Dutch Amperex 7308’s in my DAC which affects the sound as well.  These sound so good that I am not looking to change these right now.

I have read the reference 6sn7 thread many times but I am looking for member feedback instead of an old document on the internet.

Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance -

[JakeJ]

Welcome to the world of tube rolling.  One thing to keep in mind is that the sound you get with a specific tube set will differ not only from any other tube set but they all sound different in your Musical Paradise vs another brand/model of gear.

You may need to widen your query to other forums where Musical Paradise gets more attention.  Audiokarma and hifihaven are two forums that popped up on a Google search.  Also if you do Facebook there is an MP group.

Best of luck.

[Escott1377]

There’s so many factors involved between the pre, the DAC, and the mono blocs I use for the highs and mids.  I am using KT77 for my power tubes and 12AX7 Tele’s in my gain stage on the mono blocs.

I think I should narrow the inquiry to the Raytheon VT231’s or the brown base that I mentioned.

Does anyone have experience with these 2 options?

Thanks

[jtcf]

If you're interested in new production tubes I'm at the moment breaking in a Psvane CV181-T MKll 6SN7 that is very impressive. The vocals and highs are fantastic along with the bass.Everything in the middle has a bit of extra texture, which is not unpleasant just different. But I only have a few hours on it.Another one I like is Sofia Blue,warmish especially in the lower mids.An inexpensive NOS that are fairly neutral with a touch of warmth,decent highs, are General Electric.
  My amp is AricAudio Transcend Four KT88s and three 6SN7s.I "tune" it by putting my favorite tube in the input spot and a different brand on either side.

[mresseguie]

Question for anyone with experience or knowledge:

Which NOS 6SN7 tubes do you favor, and what do they do for your listening pleasure? Do you feel they sound better than new production tubes?

I ask the above 3-part question because this thread jogged my memory. I know a gentleman (in Taiwan) who owns a considerable hoard of NOS tubes from the 50s and 60s. He once told me his selection of 6SN7 tubes, but it's been a while since I spoke with him. I'll look through my conversation with him to see what he's got. Then, I'll report back.

Thank you to Escott1377 for this thread! 

Michael

[Tyson]

6SN7 Input Tubes I have:

Sylvania VT99 (2)
Tung Sol VT99 (1)

Tung Sol 7N7 (1) {Burned in}
Westinghouse 7N7 (6) {5 Burned in}

Russian 6h8c (2) {Burned in}
Russian Melz 6N8S  metal base (2)


CBS 6SN7 GT (2) {Burned in}
Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 (4)
GE 6SN7 GTB side getter (2) {Burned in}
Hitachi 6SN7 GTB (3) {Burned in}
National Union 6SN7 GT black glass (2) {Burned in}
Psvane CV181 grey glass (2) {Burned in}
Raytheon 6SN7 GTB (2) {Burned in}
RCA 6SN7 bottom D getter (2) {1 Burned in}
RCA 6SN7 GT grey glass (VT-231) (2) {Burned in}
RCA CRC 5692 Red Base (1)
Shuguang Black Treasure CV-181 (2) {Burned in}
Shuguang WE6SN7 Plus (2)
Sylvania 6SN7 WGTA (3) {2 Burned in}
Sylvania 6SN7 GTA black plates (2) {Burned in}
Sylvania 6SN7 GTB full chrome dome (2) {Burned in}
Sylvania 6SN7 GTB top D getter (2) {Burned in}
Tung Sol 6SN7 GT short bottle (3) {2 Burned in}
Tung Sol 6SN7 GTB tall, top D getter (2) {Burned in}
Tung Sol 6SN7 GTB tall, top O getter (1) {Burned in}
Tung Sol 6SN7 GTB new production (4) {Burned in}
Westinghouse 6SN7 GTB tall bottles (2) {Burned in}


I like NOS Tung Sols from the 50s and 60s the best.

[AllanS]

I’m not a wine drinker and don’t dabble in tube rolling yet but more so than any other aspect of this hobby I think of master sommeliers when coming across threads like this.

[jtcf]

@AllanS I wish I had the $$$ to try as many tubes possible Most of the new production tubes are clean and clear sounding, so if one wants a touch of that 'tubey' midrange experimentation is a must. Last night I found a a really nice combination which I had low expectations of, but damn!The Psvane C181 flanked by Electro Harmonix.The EH are of the clean clear variety but they compliment that Psvane perfectly. Almost. There's a touch of glare in the mids that I'm hoping will fade away. Neither brand has many hours on them yet so we'll see.

[Escott1377]

I actually just PayPal’d Brent Jesses this morning for a pair of the Sylvania VT231’s.  I am hoping that with some combination of the Ken Rads and Sylvanias that I will find what I am looking for.

I really enjoyed the Ken Rad / Hytron combo on vinyl, but found it to be too bright with my DAC.  My DAC has a pair of Dutch Amperex 7308’s and my phono pre is solid state, almost makes me feel like it should actually be the opposite based on the format.

[FullRangeMan]

Hi Tyson,
This is a great collection of tubes, congratulations. 
Would you mind posting close-up pictures of these your tubes in this topic below, so we can get to know them.
Thanks in advance.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=173996.msg1837176#msg1837176

[jtcf]

Here's my #1 combination for now - Linlai HiFi black plates (input) two Psvane CV181-T Mk2 (phase splitters).With this amp a clean and detailed tube seems best for the input,then adding a touch of warmth that doesn't obscure detail is sounding outstanding

[Early B.]

This isn't about purchasing 6SN7's but related.... I switched the 6SN7 tubes in my amp and the tubes are touching. Is there any danger in this once I turn on the amp and they start to heat up?



The reason I switched tubes is that I have the same tubes in my preamp, so I'm wondering how the system would sound with the same 6SN7 tubes in the preamp and amp.


 

[mick wolfe]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the middle tube of those three is the one that contributes most to the amp's sonic signature. At least that's the way it is with my similar Erhard Elvis. Even with my VTA ST70, the middle tube of the three is key. I would replace the outside tubes with something a little more common ( and with less girth) like a new re-issue Tung-Sol. I would not want the tubes touching, but that's just me.

[Early B.]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the middle tube of those three is the one that contributes most to the amp's sonic signature.

Good question. I asked the designer of my amp (Don Sachs) and he said: "All tubes matter, drivers affect sonics probably as much as the center input tube."

 

[mick wolfe]

Being as that I don't have experience that amp, I'd listen to Don Sachs in your case. In my case and in regard to my Erhard or VTA amps, I've been told more than once that the middle tube rules the roost. In your case however, I'd still probably select a tube configuration that doesn't allow the tubes to touch. Ultimately, your call in the end though.

[mick wolfe]

Maybe even a socket saver that would raise the middle tube to clear the others. Just a guess though.

[JakeJ]

Early B.

Did you ask Don what his opinion is on tubes touching during operation?  I personally would not want to operate a tube this way.  I think it creates a hotspot in the glass at the point of contact.  Do have an IR temperature gun or know someone who has one you can borrow?  Perhaps a tool rental company?  I am very curious as to the temps across the tube envelope.  Food for thought.

As to tube position and importance, Don knows his circuit and other designs it may not make as big a difference.  My VAC PA-160's have a 6SN7 in the input position and another in the driver position and the input tube make the bigger difference in SQ, and the driver does have an effect just not as pronounced.  Sylvania chrome domes for input duty because they sound the sweetest of my stash.

Jake

[Early B.]

Early B.

Did you ask Don what his opinion is on tubes touching during operation?

Yes. He said it's OK if the tubes touch, but if it bothered me I could use tube risers. I have a set of risers, but when I installed them, the coke-bottled and lightbulb-shaped tubes still touched, so I removed them. 

[Cloud.sessions]

Yes. He said it's OK if the tubes touch, but if it bothered me I could use tube risers. I have a set of risers, but when I installed them, the coke-bottled and lightbulb-shaped tubes still touched, so I removed them. 

I understand completely Early B. In the current production of the Valhalla I spaced the tubes out more to allow 3 e-6sn7 tubes to go up front. I’ll do the same thing for the Kootenay if I take production over it. We’ll see, I’ll most likely take over production of the 300B statement first.