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How far away were you from your loudspeakers and was the sweet spot any larger or smaller as a result of the processing. Also what kind of speakers are you using.Scotty
But HOW??? That is the hard part. Besides computers, there are very little available. It is definitely a DIY job.For transaural the cheapest, most accessible experiment is the following:
I've heard csero's system on day t+1 or 2, it is scary realistic as he says. Forget hi-fi, if you really want to sit and listen to performances and reality is paramount there is no looking back. Everything else is second best if even that.
Are you using ambience channels? I didn't find it very believeable 'til the ambience channels were added.
This is why I detailed my use of BruteFIR. It was fairly east to get it working and try it out. Changing the parameters of the processing is more complex, but it's extremely flexible. People have even been using BruteFIR to implement a digital active crossover.If you've got a Linux system and a CD burner, you're in business and can start experimenting. If you like the effect, then you can look into a hardware solution...One advantage of doing it the way that I did is that you're not dependent on the ...
I'm still not positive that it is more "real" than normal stereo. It's different, but normal stereo can produce a very nice effect too. And, if nothing else, placing two speakers side-by-side is going to do odd things to the directivity, possibly increase baffle-step and diffraction problems, change the tonal balance...From my brief exposure to it, it really does seem dependent on the original recording. It sure is fun to play with though!
I just found computers unfriendly in the listening chain. There is nothing wrong with the Creative, just a standard Motorola 56k DSP with digital and analog inputs and reasonable quality CS DAC chips. The FIR algorhytm is reasonable, quite long which gives good crosstalk cancellation down to around 600 Hz. Below that you actually need the crosstalk, at least for "normal" stereo records.AFAIK Brutefir is for 10 deg speaker separation, so your speakers are too close. Try 12". Feed the canceler with L channel only and find the spot, where the music sounds from the extreme left only.
The included filter with BruteFIR is for 10 deg, but it should be quite possible to setup whatever you want...
I also took a look on the net for the Creative PS2000, and didn't find it for $40.Too bad it's setup to feed a subwoofer. I'd much rather just run it full-range.
BruteFIR is fast enough to process in real-time, but I didn't use it that way.The included filter with BruteFIR is for 10 deg, but it should be quite possible to setup whatever you want.I did separate my speakers a bit last night and found that things at the sides of the soundstage improved, but things in the center seemed more muddled.
I also took a look on the net for the Creative PS2000, and didn't find it for $40.
just from a google:Hey csero (or anyone else) did you ever try the 'optimal source distribtion' crosstalk method? Seems to me it came up here a year ago or so. The idea being that different frequency ranges have different angular separation needs. So, array your drivers out in an arc horizontally with the tweeters narrowly spaced (5-10 deg), spanning out to the subs at +-90. If you had a continuous tapering of frequencies, the crosstalk signal would si ...
just from a google:http://www.cdromshop.com/cdshop/desc/p.18403.htmlHey csero (or anyone else) did you ever try the 'optimal source distribtion' crosstalk method? Seems to me it came up here a year ago or so. The idea being that different frequency ranges have different angular separation needs. So, array your drivers out in an arc horizontally with the tweeters narrowly spaced (5-10 deg), spanning out to the subs at +-90. If you had a continuous tapering of frequencies, the crosstalk signal would si ...
If you have to weight which one is more important, the XTC or the ambience, it is a close call, but none of them enough alone.