Your broken tweeter is a strong sign that you have uncontrolled oscillation. Only a high frequency signal can make it through the tweeter's high pass crossover filter. The damaging signal must be ultra sonic because you don't hear it, and with large enough voltage to fry the tweeter voice coil, meaning it's probably full amplifier voltage, which means most likely the amp is oscillating, not the preamp. Probably the amplifier is running hot?
Most amps have an input capacitor which blocks DC on the input signal. And most preamps have a output capacitor to block DC on the output, so it's highly unlikely that the DC offset causing the thump or pop on shutdown is coming from the well engineered NAD preamp. IMO, the Sparkos upgrade opamp in the amplifier is the culprit. Opamp replacements must always be checked for oscillation while working in the actual amplifier circuit with an oscilloscope. Please replace the sparkos with the original opamp that came with the amplifier to see if there is improvement.
Oscillating amp can overheat and even catch on fire, so only run it for testing until it's fixed.
DC offset is what causes thump or snap when powering off. The DC offset can be caused by oscillation.
Test for DC offset:
Disconnect the amp from everything - standalone. Use a voltmeter set to VDC to check the output voltage of the power amp on each channel. It should be zero +/- 0.05VDC
You can have oscillation without any DC offset, and it will still cook the tweeters, but it probably wouldn't pop on shutdown.
If the amp behaves fine when running alone by itself, even turn on and off while connected to speaker without pop, then cause is preamp or signal source.
As for your question about class D amps, I have Purifi and it is amazing. It is better than ICE and HYpex UCD. I have not heard NuPrime. Denafrips AB even better than Purifi.
