[Viscouse]

That seems to check out, thank you!
Between 1 & 2: 14-50ish Ohms
Between 4 & 5: 100ish Ohms
5 & 6: 0.3 Ohms
2 & 3: 0.3 Ohms

Anyone have specs on this switch, or a replacement one? Resoldering this is gonna be a pain...
EDIT: 10A, 250V DPDT

[HAL]

Since the red and black leads are cut, was this removed from the speaker crossover for testing only?

If you change the direction of the switch, do the original measurements swap?  If so, the switch is working.

[Viscouse]

Yes, I removed it for testing & possible replacement/repair. Wait...I thought this was the crossover. Is that incorrect?

If I flip the switch:
5 & 6: 0.3 Ohms
2 & 3: 0.3 Ohms

[davidc1]

Yes, those are the crossovers you removed. The poster just misspoke a bit.

I wouldn't replace any crossover components unless they have specifically failed. While electrolytic caps and resistors can sometimes go bad, these usually don't. Also, keep in mind you have very high-end crossover components. They were an option that cost hundreds more.

Many people have removed the switch, because it's only there for bi-amping, which is useless pretty much for this series of speakers. There are a couple of threads on how to remove then if desired.

Forget the paper tube test, just stick your ear near the speaker to listen.

You are on your way to an awesome speaker.

Check all the wiring inside the box. A wire could have easily come lose from it's terminal. Do a really good search on this site, and somebody may have posted the assembly instructions as these were available as kits as well.

[Jstower]

It best to just remove the toggle switch, weak link in crossover, you move #2 to positive binding post, #5 to negative binding post. Then follow where red and black wires #3 and #6 go and cut them off (other set of binding post) I just use that wire for the jumpers. You will have to use external jumpers between the two set of binding post. Don’t forget to fill the hole from the switch.
 Good luck.

[Viscouse]

Thank you! I will remove the switch, since the speakers are already bi-wired (not Bi-amped).
If I already am setup for bi-wire, I think I do not need the jumpers. Is this correct?
Amp has 1 positive and 1 negative that terminate in 2 positive and 2 negative, that go into the 4 speaker jacks.

[Jstower]

Correct, bi wire you’re good to go.

[Viscouse]

Thanks everyone!