https://realtraps.com/modecalc.htmResonant freq = 1130/1.66*2 = 339Hz <--- this is the resonant freq between 20" parallel surfaces.
With the driver only inches from each wing, the resonance will be very loud and will drive you crazy.
Options:
>340Hz is high enough to be damped by 2" rigid fiberglass board installed to the inside of each wing.
>Angle the wings outward so resonance does not occur.
>Design a different bracing scheme using one vertical beam centered behind the drivers and connected to the baffle at multiple places between the drivers with horizontal struts. Rather than two parallel wings on the sides.
>Make the baffle strong and non-resonant enough to stand alone without external bracing, probably metal.
If you stick with the perpendicular side panels you will need to damp them from vibrating also. They will want to sing along in sympathy with front baffle and the 339 resonance. MDF has wide Q, so it will sing, and sing very ugly, no matter the part dimensions. Cross bracing between the wings will help. Batten bracing does nothing.
With two 15" woofers you don't need side wings to support bass extension, especially if you are using Q .7 or higher drivers. If you use normal Q .4 drivers and have separate amplifier for bass, you can add a little eq to contour the bass to match your room if needed.
No matter how heavy the 10" it will be held up just fine by plywood, or even MDF. Use through bolts and nuts rather than wood screws if you're concerned. The more important factor is the vibration of the baffle itself. It wants to sing along with the drivers that are bolted to it, so damping the baffle is a major part of dipole speaker design. I use rear strut bracing as described above, along with laminating layers of wood with green glue to good effect, but there are many baffle damping techniques. One I have wanted to try is sand filled. Hi Bob!
