[owcraftsman]

Rather than have my speakers down for however long it takes a noob like me to finish a speaker upgrade I have been doing it in sprits. Today I cut the boards, twisted the parts up, marked out the holes and drilled them, secured the parts to the boards with zip ties soldered and tinned the wires. With a little bit of heats shrink thrown in there for good measure.

I hope and pray I got this right but I had a lot of help from some of the guys here so I'm fairly confident




I post these to help anyone who might need it. Note there is a top/left and right view of both upgrades.
The only thing I had trouble with was identifying the resistors which EZee & Danny were very helpful with.  Of course the identifying marks are redacted here to protect the intellectual property of GR Research. If you have any questions ask them or reply here and I will do what I can for these Klipsch upgrades only.

For the board I used 24 in. x 36 in H Dry Erase Board from Lowes. It saved me a step of painting and cost under 10 bucks.
All networks boards were cut with my trusty portable table saw to 4.5" x 9.5"

What took the most time was sanding the red off the coil leads as needed pre twist and solder. I used Emory cloth from my plumbing kit.
Other tools:
I had in house a Wagner Spraytech 0503008 I used to use with monokote building scale model airplanes and a Weller D550 solder gun both are overkill but get the job done nicely.
I also picked up some extra solder so not to run out of it 63-37 High Purity Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electrical Soldering, Content 1.8% Solder flux cost under 8 bucks at the big A.
Something I noticed before I started today was that the heat shrink included with the kit is quit large at 1/4" even at 3to1 shrink a bit large for what I was doing today. Fortunately I had picked up a combo kit from the big A which came in quit handy. Couldn't find a reasonable priced red white kit so I settled for KOOWIN 300 PCS 3:1 Ratio Heat Shrink Tubing Kit, 5 Sizes (Diameter): 1/8, 1/4, 3/16, 3/8, 1/2 Inch, Electric Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box (Black & Red)

My next free weekend I will finally complete the DIY experience. Removing the speakers posts ports and cheezee  crossover. Followed by cleaning up the interior and applying the No Rez. Then measuring, drilling, cutting and soldering in the tube connectors, and speaker wires. So, stay tuned.

[Richie_C]

Nice big clear pics!
Will be following with interest
 

[Richie_C]

Just received my kit for my RP-6000Fs

Was expecting a little more of a guide or instructions included in the box, so glad I can come here for guidance.

Could you please share a legend for your identifying markings?

I'm guessing:
T- = Tweeter Negative (this is where you connect to Negative on the Tweeter)
In- = ? Negative input/speaker post?
W- = Woofer Negative? (is this Lower Woofer?)
Mw- = Mid Woofer Negative? (Upper Woofer?)
etc etc

Thank-you

[Richie_C]

my progress (using your images as a guide, thankyou!)

[owcraftsman]

my progress (using your images as a guide, thankyou!)

Looking good there Richie. I'm glad it was helpful to you I'll be doing the same with the RP-500M and hope that helps others as well.

I made some comments in other threads regarding No Rez please ignore I had plenty. I didn't account for the braces inside the cabinets.
The only thing I ran short of was soldier and If I was better at it it may have been enough.

[Richie_C]

some more progress shots of my RP-6000Fs

[Richie_C]

I finished these tonight, and I gotta say; I enjoy the sound of these much more than previously
I used to find these harsh (particularly on the top end) and scooped out in the middle, and just generally fatiguing when listening to a lot of music I normally enjoy. I thought they sounded better from the next room, than in front of them.

Now the harshness is gone, yet they still sound lively, and I think they sound fuller.
I can now enjoy music on these at a decent volume that I couldn't before.
Very happy with the end result. I honestly didn't expect the sound to be so improved 

PS: I too ran out of solder, but had plenty of all the other materials supplied to complete this project

[owcraftsman]

I'm with you quite satisfied with the results. Thanks for posting those pics I'm sure it will help someone.
My subjective best word to describe the difference is Clarity. I definitely hear things that were missing or muddled.
The brightness at the top is smoother yet somehow more defined. Totally agree the harshness is gone.

After mapping out the lengths of wire needed with different locations for the new network I decided to use the front to have NoRez on the back wall. I have no clue if that is better or not.
Your choice was my second choice based on amount of wire needed and available with the kit. As you can see below your way and mine would consume the same amount of wire. I had maybe a foot and a half left over.



Because of the triangle brackets 1"x1" there were gaps between walls and braces with the NoRez. I took the factory acoustic PolyFill and cut in to 3 strips each piece removed, long ways. I tucked the strips into these gaps and had just enough to fill every gap. My thinking was better used there than taking up even more volume after the NoRez which takes up quite a bit. 

[owcraftsman]

One of the things that attracted me to the RP-6000F is the height of the tweeter. It is at 36" off FFE which happens to coincide with the height of my ears at the MLP when reclined. The proverbial nail in the coffin came when I realized my media center paired with the RP-600C placed it's tweeter at 36" off FFE. It also did not escape me that all three have exactly the same drivers. See image below.



My previous system was RSL CG3-5.1 system with an extra 10s speedwoofer. The 10s speedwoofers are still in service and until recently I was still using a pair of CG3's as surrounds. Given how impressed I was with the Klipsch I decided to timbre match the surround with a pair of RP-500m speakers and of course upgrade them as well.

 

Bottom line I feel like I have a system that cost thousands more than I paid even with the upgrade and time spent.