[Al Garay]

I'm putting my monoblocks in a new single case. And I'm looking for a good toggle switch. What is the recommended type and specification?

Does it need to be heavy duty such as this Philmore  30-10360
15a@125vac/10a@250vac? Looking for a good quality one like AudioResearch might use.

I have read that Tocos from Japan are good but the ones I see in the Michael Percy catalog are only 5a@125vac/3a@250vac.

thanks,

Al

[andyr]

I'm putting my monoblocks in a new single case. And I'm looking for a good toggle switch. What is the recommended type and specification?

Does it need to be heavy duty such as this Philmore  30-10360
15a@125vac/10a@250vac? Looking for a good quality one like AudioResearch might use.

I have read that Tocos from Japan are good but the ones I see in the Michael Percy catalog are only 5a@125vac/3a@250vac.

thanks,

Al

Al, ma man, "toggle switch" for what?  Be a bit more specific and you might get people responding with some helpful advice.

Sounds like you want to select which monoblock you want to turn on, in the "single case"??  

Regards,

Andy

[Rom]

Hi Al,

Double pole Single/Double Throw (DPST/DPDT) is the recomemded type, these is the one that cut both the neutral line and the live line on your AC line.

I use circuit breaker on mine as these offer more protection and safety.



Cheers
Rom

[Al Garay]

Must have been too late last night for a clear posting. Yes, this would be a toggle switch to turn the power on the amp on and off. Perhaps it's purely for cosmetic reasons that I think it looks nicer than a standard rocker switch.

I have not looked into circuit breaker switch. Is there a model?


thanks,

Al

[Seano]

I would use a DPDT toggle with a 10A 250VAC rating. You might be able to get away with lighter rating if you are going for a switch per monoblock though.

I suppose you could also use a lower rated switch if you used a 10A relay or better. That way you may be able to take advantage of a far more aesthetic range of switches than a hulking great 10A toggle. Bit more complex though.

The circuit breaker is generally a seperate component from the power switch.

I use the 10A toggle. Actually it was one supplied by Hugh. But it isn't far removed from a switch (Cat No. ST-0575) I can get from Jaycar for four bucks Oz.

[Al Garay]

I am curious about circuit breaker and how that might impact the sound quality if any. I like to leave my amps on all the time and occasionally we do have a power outage. So, the circuit breaker solution is attractive if there is no sound degradation... sorry for being extra anal about a bloody switch.

I appreciate giving me the spec for the toggle switch. I wasn't sure of the proper current capacity. There are many 10A 250VAC toggle switches I can find.

Does anyone have model and part number for a circuit breaker they're using for AKSA?

thanks,

Al

[gonefishin]

Another option would be to go for a rotary switch which enables you to use a knob...if this suits the look your going for.  


   

  dan

[jules]

I've been thinking rotary myself Dan [for knob reasons]. Can you give a few details on specs, maybe reliability and a source?

Jules

[gonefishin]

I've been thinking rotary myself Dan [for knob reasons]. Can you give a few details on specs, maybe reliability and a source?

Jules

   Hi Jules,

  I sure can...but not tonight     I have the pages bookmarked on my computer at home.  I'll be at work all night, so I won't have an opportunity to get to it until the morning.

   Reliability...Not really sure I can help you there.  I've only recently gotten my first AKSA (25W) amp finished a couple of months ago.  It's been on almost constantly since it was finished.  No problems yet...and I hope the streak continues  

     There are two sources for two different switches that I've ordered (I've got two other AKSA amps to still build).  I'll get you all the links and info in the morning.

    Also...the best deal I found on the type of switches that I was looking for are the AudioNote Knobs from PartsConnexion in Canada.  The AudioNote knobs are nice and actually fairly reasonable once you make the proper currency conversion (compared to many other knobs out there).  Even though you'll have them shipped nearly half way around the world ...it still might not be bad if your not in a hurry, considering their light weight.

   If you've never visited the partsconnexion web page before...go to the supplied link (above).  Then look for the KNOBS tab near the bottom of the page.

      take care,

    dan

[andyr]

I appreciate giving me the spec for the toggle switch. I wasn't sure of the proper current capacity. There are many 10A 250VAC toggle switches I can find.

thanks,

Al

Al, even though you're putting the two monoblocks in one case, I suggest there's still good reason to think of them as "monoblocks" and have them individually switched (with 10amp switches), as Seano suggested.

If you wanted to deliver the same sound as you "currently" have with your monoblocks    , you should consider not only individual power switches but individual power cords.  That way your two AKSA modules are not being starved of current when they need it, by both having to suck through the one "straw".

In my own setup, I have three AKSA modules each side as I tri-amp.  Each module has it's own 10amp power switch, fuse and power cord.  I also used DPDT switches (from Hugh) as this enables me to change mains polarity with a flick of a switch (which makes a difference to the sound).

It's also convenient to be able to switch off one module when you're doing some testing.

Regards,

Andy

[Al Garay]

Hi Andy,

Good suggestion. I'm having a hard time finding a similar toggle switch DPDT with 10A@250VAC.

So, I'll stay with rocker switch(es) and keep them in the rear. I stated thinking that kids and pets may find a toggle switch in the front too appealing, drawn to touch it. The best value seems to be the Shurter IEC with built in switch and fuse, keeps it simple though perhaps not as elegant.

thanks,

Al

[andyr]

Hi Andy,

Good suggestion. I'm having a hard time finding a similar toggle switch DPDT with 10A@250VAC.

So, I'll stay with rocker switch(es) and keep them in the rear. I stated thinking that kids and pets may find a toggle switch in the front too appealing, drawn to touch it. The best value seems to be the Shurter IEC with built in switch and fuse, keeps it simple though perhaps not as elegant.

thanks,

Al

Hi Al,

You should get in touch with "Occam" (Paul) ... he was the one who found those DPDT, 10 amp switches for Hugh.  Or RS Components has "Arcolectric" 16amp/250VAC DPDT (centre off) switches, Part No. 350-254.

I agree with having power switches on the back panel as it saves you having mains AC wires through the amp.  Don't know that the all-in-one IEC/switch/fuse is necessarily the best, sonically, though ... are they heavy duty switches?  I keep my AKSAs on most of the time but, even though the switch doesn't get used much, I still like to have a heavy-duty one.

Regards,

Andy

[hanguy]

I have used GC switch part number 35-3154, a DPST switch on my 100W N+. It is rated to 20A for 125V and I found this in a local electronic store. I have also see this in a Frys store.

Good luck

Mike

[Occam]

Al -given your preference for back panel mounted gegaws, I'd suggest the following -
http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm
IEC Power Receptacle takes 2 GMA fuses, changeable from 115V to 230V with switch ....... $1.49ea and $125.00/100
halfway down the page.


Iff'n you have to cut that horrible hole for the IEC in the first place, you might as well make it a bit bigger and save vourself a whole lotta hassle. I believe it is the same as -
http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=189&M=764-00/003

From a philosophical and practical perspective, yes, circuit breakers are prefferable. Their resistance is generally lower than the equivalent  switch and fuse, and their trip characteristics are ideally suited for initial turn-on surge as we are wont to construct, without the high resistance of slo blo fuses.... But given your specific needs and preferences, make your life easier.

[gonefishin]

I've been thinking rotary myself Dan [for knob reasons]. Can you give a few details on specs, maybe reliability and a source?

Jules

   Hi Jules (sorry for the delay)

     For my amps I ended up with one GrayHill
 per channel...which is why I have two rotary power switches on the amp that's pictured.  For my brothers amp, which I still have to build, I ordered one NKK Switch.  As I mentioned before...the audionote knobs from partsconnexion are a nice deal.

    Another thing I did for the power cord and interconnects (which I'm not sure what I'll end up with yet ) is to hardwire them.  
 


    dan

[PSP]

A really nice 10 amp DPST rocker switch (with silver contacts) is this NKK:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=390379&e_categoryid=143&e_pcodeid=63302

This switch is flat black with just a slight semi-gloss... cool in a "Stealth Bomber" sort of way.  You can buy it with/without 1/0 on-off markings.  I've used this switch on the three AKSA 55s I've built, the TLP, and the GK-1.  It's worked well for me.

You could also use this combination power switch and breaker from Schurter (first recommended, I think, by Bob Crump on AA).  
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=*693ABDBL*%2b*150C0*&terms=693-ABDBL+150C0&Ntt=*693ABDBL*%2b*150C0*&Dk=1&Ns=SField&N=0&crc=false

What I have not been able to find is a nice-looking 10-15amp DPST metal toggle... everything I've found has a short, round club-shaped toggle and a knurled mounting ring... these look OK, but "just OK".

Good luck,
Peter

[jules]

dan,

thank's for the info. The Grayhill you give a link to, the 948-7277 rotary 15amp switch looks good. On the reliability side it offers 10,000 cycles which is about as good as it gets for this sort of switch. How do you deal with the 5 position issue ... is it possible to set a stop/pin it in some way?

Hardwiring as much as possible makes a lot of sense [to me anyway   ] and I'm thinking of using a fair bit of it provided it doesn't limit the portability of my system too much. The power cord is the most obvious candidate. At the moment I'm using a 600mm electric jug cord to supply my amp and while there shouldn't be any problems with capacity [at 2,000W   ] it's one of the "extras" for which the best option isn't obvious without a bit of ferreting around.

I understand there's a recommended power lead and maybe a recommended length but the simplest option would seem to be to include a length of "best" cable in the kit and hardwire it in place. I do realize this changes the fuse system somewhat and would add to the weight/volume of a kit for freight . edit: On a cost basis it's going to cost me more in time and money to search out, order and pay for the freight on a cord as a separate item than it would have cost as an inclusion.  

As for other hardwiring other interconnects ... less of those ridiculously expensive plugs and less debate about their supposed virtues/weaknesses  

jules [/i]

[rookster]

Would a rotary switch with a rating of 4A/250V (Max inrush current of 6A) be OK for use on a stereo 55N+ (for use in Australia)

[AKSA]

Michael,

I'd say no, this is not enough for the 15A or so of inrush current at switch on.  It will certainly work, but it won't last more than a couple of years.

Better to go to a higher rating......

Cheers,

Hugh

[rookster]

Hugh / All,

What fuse would be required to cover this current, but still offer protection?

Can I or should I use a switch and fuse for each channel?