[S Clark]

In a time where shipping insurance is challenged as corporate policy, and boxes get tossed like Scottish cabers, what is one supposed to do when you absolutely have to ship a TT across the country?  I'm tempted to skip the "insurance" and put the cash toward extra packing. 
This is a direct drive Victor TT-81

I'm thinking 2" sheet styrofoam around the internal surface of the box.  Then another 3/4" base of styrofoam with a hole cut out for the motor housing.  An inch of styrofoam on top, put the platter in between two 3/4" styrofoam sheets.
Reinforce the box corners with extra box corners glued in to double the corner strength. 
Open to all and any suggestions.

[TomS]

As you know, it's not "insurance" for damage at all, only for loss due to theft, lost packages, etc. Otherwise, they'll cover nothing.

You hit all the key things. That 2" foam all around is the first line of defense against routine punctures and big drops. The other is to make sure there are no voids inside the box, such that the contents are tight as can be, you want zero movement. Separate big heavy parts with pieces of thick foam, etc. I plastic wrap most parts to keep them from rubbing and to keep any stray liquids out.

Then, you hope and pray ... good luck!

[Nick B]

Everything you’re suggesting sounds good and I like the corner reinforcement idea. Depending on the weight, maybe adding some heavy duty bubble wrap. I’d plastic wrap parts like Tom suggests. Is there a locking screw for shipment?

[Photon46]

Although much more expensive, I greatly prefer dense sheet upholstery foam that you buy in places like JoAnn Fabrics (or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Charcoal-Upholstery-Padding-Cushions/dp/B07G3HH9BX/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=foam%2Bsheets&qid=1642035023&sr=8-19&th=1 ). That type of foam cushions and protects against g-force shocks better than harder styrofoam. I put 2" of that foam around all sides of the component being shipped and then an inch of styrofoam between the upholstery foam and the cardboard box.

[Folsom]

With that table you need the screws that secure the transformer. They're probably just M5's long, but I don't recall. And the platter separated. Aside from that the best boxing you can. Double boxed is a good way to go... it sux as it builds up the cost but they are not making any more of those.

You can also build up cardboard if you have a bunch.

[S Clark]

With that table you need the screws that secure the transformer. They're probably just M5's long, but I don't recall. And the platter separated. Aside from that the best boxing you can. Double boxed is a good way to go... it sux as it builds up the cost but they are not making any more of those.

You can also build up cardboard if you have a bunch.

Thanks, Jeremy.  I'll pull the housing and look for the transformer.

Photon46, I've got some 1" dense foam used for cabinet dampening (No Rez) that I can cut and use.  It's expensive and heavy, but I might try to shield the top frame with it.  I could wrap/encircle the upper frame and tape it in place.  It might have to take the place of some of the styrofoam inner sleeve. 

[TomS]

I have also shipped product where the pack-n-ship type shop lays a plastic wrap on it, then sprays foam in place - top piece and bottom piece, basically molded to the shape of the object inside. It has a little bit of give to it, not as stiff as EPS. We did this for some very valuable heirloom items and it wasn't really all that expensive.

[Bob2]

I use carpet padding when I have to ship delicate heavy items like amps ect. It's cheap (relatively). Double box and tape the shit out of it. I have received amps and TT packed like that with no damage. Line the box with Styrofoam first. 

I found when I shipped Composite aircraft parts that UPS would smash the package as much as possible no matter what I did. Making a box out of birch ply and place that inside a carboard box would survive every time. Remember UPS means Ur Package Smashed... Fedex is no better. USPS is f^&^&$g useless. We are all doomed!!

[Folsom]

Thanks, Jeremy.  I'll pull the housing and look for the transformer.

Photon46, I've got some 1" dense foam used for cabinet dampening (No Rez) that I can cut and use.  It's expensive and heavy, but I might try to shield the top frame with it.  I could wrap/encircle the upper frame and tape it in place.  It might have to take the place of some of the styrofoam inner sleeve.

The transport screws come down from the top, no need to remove the lower enclosure if you can find them on top.

[rotarius]

I have also shipped product where the pack-n-ship type shop lays a plastic wrap on it, then sprays foam in place - top piece and bottom piece, basically molded to the shape of the object inside. It has a little bit of give to it, not as stiff as EPS. We did this for some very valuable heirloom items and it wasn't really all that expensive.

This is best, encased in foam will give the best shock absorption.  Just because other materials are heavier, or softer, they don't offer better protection than styrofoam.  Take a look at infant car seats, designed for impact, they use hard foam not something squishy. Avoid the spongy stuff which is mostly air.

[Photon46]

Rotarius makes a good point. There's a lot of density difference between cheap and expensive foam and the squishy cheap stuff is to be avoided. The "spray-in expanding hard foam" packing system he mentions is the best for sure, not sure how easy it is to find shippers who use it though. When I ordered a 60lb. Acoustic Signature turntable it came packed with that expanding foam system, worked like a charm.

[S Clark]

Finally took this table to UPS for shipping.  I've spend weeks building a multiple layered box, extra corner reinforcement, getting all the internals like I wanted.  So the gal takes it, measures (20x20x21), weighs (27lbs), and says that will be $133 dollars...     Insurance is more if I want it.
I took it home.
I can buy another table, shipped out of Japan, for about $500.  By the time I get it fixed and shipped back, I'm barely ahead of the game. 
I've shipped amps withing the last 18 months that were just as bulky and three times the weight for about half that! 
What in the hell has happened?

[TomS]

Finally took this table to UPS for shipping.  I've spend weeks building a multiple layered box, extra corner reinforcement, getting all the internals like I wanted.  So the gal takes it, measures (20x20x21), weighs (27lbs), and says that will be $133 dollars...     Insurance is more if I want it.
I took it home.
I can buy another table, shipped out of Japan, for about $500.  By the time I get it fixed and shipped back, I'm barely ahead of the game. 
I've shipped amps withing the last 18 months that were just as bulky and three times the weight for about half that! 
What in the hell has happened?

I just shipped a TT from SW FL to Louisiana that was 75#, 2 boxes 26x20x10 each strapped, plus a tonearm in another small 5# box, for ~$150 via Fedex Ground plus insurance. It was a pricey item, so insurance was similar. But, of course, it is not really "insurance" at all so there is that.

[wushuliu]

When I took a few years off from the DAC race some time back I got heavily into fixing and selling old turntables. I figured out what IMO is an almost damage-proof AND cost-effective method of shipping for most tables. When buying vintage tables I received the gamut from double-boxed to styrofoam to just newspaper. Personally I did not find double boxing to be a panacea. I shipped 3 dozen tables across country - all arrived undamaged except one which was my error (dustcover crack). It's been years at this point so excuse if I leave something out.

Here was my method:

1. Bubble wrap platter, set aside.
2. Bubble wrap dustcover. Don't wrap across the bottom, creating an inner lining is fine. Set aside.
3. Twist tie/rubber band arm to retaining clip.
    - Remove headshell if applicable, wrap, set aside.
    - Remove counterweight, wrap, set aside
    - Remove hinges if applicable, wrap, set aside
4. Bubble wrap arm. Talking thinner wrap here, not bulky.
5. Bubble wrap bottom of the table up and onto the front, sides, and rear edges of table.
    - Talking a good 1in or so along the edges. Just roll up the wrap to desired thickness.
    - This assumes using 2 directions of wrap of course, side to side and back to front.
6. Place dustcover back on top of the table. There should now be a thick buffer of wrap between the bottom edges of the DC and the edge of the table. Feel free to insert additional 'california' rolls of wrap between if needed.
7. Tape down DC to table secure and tight. From top to bottom. Lift the table and give it a jiggle. It should be compact and feel like one unit, no moving parts.
8. Get a box that is only a few inches larger than the wrapped table. If much taller, cut down to size with scissors.
9. Lay down some padding/wrap/newspaper on bottom.
10. Place wrapped platter on bottom.
11. Place wrapped and preferable small-boxed headshell/weights/ accessories on bottom
12. Put thin cardboard or USPS boxes as a divider on top of those.
13. Put wrapped table on top.
14. Insert addition bubble wrap between table and box edges or try
      - sealed USPS small priority boxes. Just put them together as normal, but empty inside.
      - or a combination of both.
      - I do not suggest crushed newspaper or styrofoam. One is too pliant, the other too rigid.
15. Close up and ship.

The key here is the bubble wrap and the compact packing. The box will not have any loose movement and the wrap will absorb impact without passing that energy on to the table. You save money on shipping AND minimize potential damage and it only takes about an 1 or 2.