Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS

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Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #20 on: 28 Feb 2021, 04:15 pm »
Thanks!  :thumb:

And, yes, that is a consideration.  I have seen that suggested for other speakers.  In the design of the X-CS, Danny’s sketches show the outboard braces with no middle web and a shortened lower brace leg.  I see now that might be a practical compromise between having stiffness in the cabinet and having access to the crossover.

I have ordered the components from Danny for both the X-CS and X-LS.  My plan is to hold off going any further with these, other than make the corner braces.  When I get the hardware from Danny, I will “test” assemble the crossovers (not solder them) and see how they will fit.  Then I will decide on a path forward.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #21 on: 17 Mar 2021, 08:00 pm »
I got my “care” package from Danny yesterday.   :dance:

Time to get back to work.  I have waited as I wanted parts in hand before making hole cuts and recesses so I can practice and ensure everything fits properly before tackling the actual parts.

I did find out something interesting while I was waiting.  I didn’t have the top baffle for the X-CS well support while it was just sitting around.
It warped!  :slap:

Not a lot; maybe 1/16 inch, but still.  MDF has no structural rigidity at all.  No wonder Danny designs in so much internal support.  Judging by how much that one piece warped, one might think my X-MTMs would look like pretzels in just a few weeks without all that they have in the way of braces.

That aside, back to work now...  :green:


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #22 on: 17 Mar 2021, 11:08 pm »
I just finished my X-CS crossover over the weekend and mounted it to the bottom before gluing it on.  This allowed me to mount the board and attach the no-rez in one solid piece..  The spacing between brackets for the crossover looks about the same as the MTM, so the same board size and layout works.  In my case, I made the mistake of soldering before the final mounting on the board, so my resistor is off the board a little and I needed to carve out the foam a little :duh:.  Lessons learned.  I didn't make the same mistake on my MTM crossovers.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #23 on: 18 Mar 2021, 02:55 pm »
Thanks for the warning ...
For my MTMs I did lay the crossover parts out on a board, without soldering and then made sure it would fit.  With that trial fit I made sure it would fit through the opening for the woofer, just in case I had a need to remove it at a later date.

My plan is to do something similar with the X-CS, only I think I will leave the top baffle for last for gluing.  Not sure on quite yet.  One reason I have waited to proceed with gluing is I want the crossover parts to do a trial fit.  In particular I cut the outboard braces the same as those in the MTMs, which is different from the plans for the X-CS, and I wanted to see if the crossover would fit in or if I need to modify those braces.

JW - I have seen others who have mounted the resisters on top of the caps.  I know functionally what you have should be OK, but if for some reason you don’t want the overhang, you could do that...  Just bend the wire to the resistor 180 deg and tie the resisters to the cap that is next to it.  I see the board is already mounted, so this might be an academic thought.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #24 on: 18 Mar 2021, 03:17 pm »
Opps in the making...   :duh:

Last night I went through the box of goodies, checking what I got, and sorting all the parts out in those for the X-CS and X-LS.  While I was labeling everything it dawned on me that while I have 2 woofers for the X-LS speakers and 2 woofers for the X-CS speaker, and they look the same,  they are actually different woofers... And I wondered if I mis-marked them as to which design they go with.

This could have been a mess if this came to light in my feeble brain after I finished the assembly.  Or worse yet, if I mixed up the 4 and had miss-matched woofers in the X-CS and between the 2 X-LS and had them all finished...   :bawl:

As it was, I looked for marking, admittedly, not too hard.  Didn’t readily see any, so I pulled out the trusty ohm meter and checked them.  Yup, mis-marked them.  At least the wrapping for them is now correctly marked.  Later, when the wrapping comes off I will mark the drivers themselves with a really bright silver Magic Marker... 


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #25 on: 18 Mar 2021, 05:49 pm »
At least you caught it. Would have been really weird when you finished them and they all played at different volumes!


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #26 on: 18 Mar 2021, 06:39 pm »

“Weird” - that would be a word for it.

Then would come the:





Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #27 on: 3 Apr 2021, 04:50 pm »
A bit more progress.  I have received all of the hardware for both speakers.  The last bits were the ports for the X-LS.  I know that people complain a lot about the USPS, or at least the complaints make the news, but wow, I think they have nothing on UPS:

I wonder what this would have looked like if it was marked “FRAGILE”?   :nono:

It looks like there are some molding channels that need to be remove...

Not a big deal.

More practice.  Fortunately, all of the driver holes are the same between these speakers and the X-MTMs.  Also, I was “smart” to have saved all my notes from that build... : :roll:

I am using a hole cutting jig for this...

To cut the holes.  This works really well, with a little practice.  For the base drivers the sketches call out a 5-3/4 inch hole.  For the X-MTMs I found that a slightly smaller, 5-11/16 inch, hole worked well to give a bit of snug to the driver.

I am using a 1/8 inch up spiral cutter, which mean the center pin location for the jig needs to be increased by 1/8 inch to compensate for the fact the jig’s scale is based on a 1/4” cutter.

So, practice with the pin set for a 5-13/16 inch hole

Perfect.  Same as I got for the X-MTMs, go figure ...   :lol:

As you can see I did the hole cutting on a board, using a couple of clamps to hold the piece being cut.  The clamps bow a little when tightened, which holds the piece in place.

Once I cut the holes in the front baffle for the X-CS I did a dry fit of the pieces making up the cabinet, except for the top.  Because I made the outboard braces like the ones in the X-MTMs instead of what is shown in the X-CS sketch, I wanted to make sure I could fit in the crossover through the hole for the driver.  I used a piece of 2x4 to mockup the approximate size of the crossover that would being going in there and slid it in through the opening and around the braces...

So, it fits, with room to spare.  From here I will lay out the crossover parts on a piece of cardboard and make sure that fits before going any further on this speaker.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #28 on: 3 Apr 2021, 05:24 pm »
Looks good!

As far as I know the crossover board does not have to be one board. Maybe when you put the high and low circuits on different boards they will fit better.

True, you can split the crossover up if needed Jon. Check out the boards Hobbs made for his X-statiks.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #29 on: 3 Apr 2021, 08:54 pm »
True...  :thumb:

I need to do the crossover layout and doing it on cardboard will make easy to try it as one piece.  If it doesn’t fit, splitting it will be an easy solution.


Re: Amateur build of the X-CS and the X-LS
« Reply #30 on: 10 Apr 2021, 03:22 pm »
Best laid plans of mice and men...

Or, is it - measure 4 times and cut twice.

Ok, a fixable screw up...  :P

It seems that even practicing, measuring twice, and doing a layout of what is to be cut doesn’t not prevent errors.

Practice I did.  In particular I did a practice run of the tweeter cutout with the recess.  The cutting order is important here with the recess needing to be cut first, then the through hole is cut.  The recess needs to be “right on” as once the hole is cut, it will be difficult to fix it afterwards.

I always do a pencil layout, in particular to ensure I have selected the correct pin hole in the router jig.

I routed the recess using an up spiral 1/4” cutter.

I was a bit surprised to see that the exposed surface was more torn up than it was when I did the X-MTMs.  It could be the quality of the MDF sold at Lowes has gone down.  Yup I bought the “cheap” stuff again.  But, I also wonder if the cutter has gotten dull.  Probably not as it has been little used.  So, I going to blame the MDF.  I was able to clean this up with some light sanding.  So not bad.

In the past I have used the 1/8” up spiral cutter for doing the through cuts in the the MDF as it draws less on the router’s battery.  For the tweeter cutout this meant that I would use the 1/4” bit for the recess and change over to the 1/8” bit for the through cut.  But this time I opted to use the 1/4” bit for everything.  This worked just fine.  The router has plenty of power to handle the larger bit and, with the hole being small, the battery lasted plenty long.

With practice done, time to do some real cutting.  All went great...

Until I noticed that one thing didn’t look like the other...

Don’t ask me how this happened.  I did the layout of the 2 front baffles at the same time and I used the same tape measure for both...   :scratch:

But it did happen and, no, I didn’t go back and check the layout a third time just before cutting.  Nope, didn’t do that.

Well, after a few choice words... :shake:  I thought this would be a good time to see how good that hole cutting jig really is and I used it to cut a plug for that misplaced hole.

On the first try, I achieved a plug that was almost a perfect fit.  With a little light sanding, it was a light press fit to get it into place.  The thing I did notice is that the router cuts holes with a slight taper.  Not a lot on a 3/4” thick piece.  Maybe a total of 1/64” with the 2 pieces fitted together.  Not sure if that all of the pieces and parts of the router and jig being slightly off.  Or is the router bit pulling everything off at a slight angle  :scratch:  Curious.

The plug fit nicely and a little excess glue to ensure everything got covered well

I did wipe the glue off while it was still wet to make sure it didn’t affect staining later on.  I re-did the layout, this time checking it against the other front baffle before making the cut.  It is interesting that I found not only was the vertical dimension wrong, the horizontal dimension was wrong as well.  I really missed the mark with this on.

With the new hole cut, I am back in business.

There is a bit of uncut material at the bottom of the holes.  This is a result of the plunge cutting depth on the router being set just slightly less than the full thickness of the MDF.  I do this to ensure the plug being cutout does not move while cutting it. I cut the hole in the MDF using 3 cutting depths passes so as to not overload the cutter and/or router. After I make the final cutting pass the plug pops out nicely.  A little light sanding cleans all of this off.

You will also notice that the 1/8” cutter I used to cut the hole for the woofer made a much cleaner cut than the 1/4” cutter I used to cut the tweeter opening.   Neither is a “cheap” cutter, with the 1/4” cutter being a Whiteside....  Hmmmm :scratch: