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a] the amp may intentionally roll-off sub-woofer frequencies.b] old coupling capacitors may be going bad.
...how much does it require to get decent 30 Hz output?
Probably 350 watts but...Is this a homemade sub using Infinity car speakers? Are the drivers a 10" woofer or 10" subwoofers, it makes a difference. My old JBL L100 speakers have a 12" woofer but they roll off at 40 Hz, no amount of power will make them go lower.The model number of the box and/or the drivers will help a lot.
This is a home brew of various parts. Enjoy and prefer that type of tinkering versus just grabbing the "best" reviewed product.
While shopping for cheap A/V subwoofer a couple of years back found that most aren't what I'd call a subwoofer (something that can reach 20 Hz). It seems that they are meant to supplement tiny desk top loudspeakers in small rooms. SVS SB-1000 or Rythmik L12 are two exceptions. Both are sealed and small, equipped with 12 inch drivers, not expensive, but musical, and go deep (25 Hz or better). So small and deep from a sealed cabinet is possible. And points to the hazards of swimming in the unknown waters of DIY.With the driver specifications a true DIYer should be able to predict performance for a given cabinet. How are the drivers wired to the amp? Suspect the drivers may be nominal 4 ohm loads. Depending on how they're connected you could be presenting the amp with a 2 ohm load, which could be very hard on the amp or up to 16 ohms if the drivers are nominal 8 ohm loads which would result in loss of output.
Trying to test your sub with an in-room analyzer is just going to show the combination of subwoofer and room behaviors. Residentially sized rooms are notorious for having bass peaks/dips up to 30 dB.