Skylan Stands

efm2 · « **on:** 2 Mar 2005, 11:08 pm »

Hi,
How much sand did you puy in your stands? Do I have to fill it up for best results? Thanks.
Edwin

Fife12 · « **Reply #1 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 12:41 am »

I filled mine up 4/5 full with 1 bag of Home Depot playsand.

maxwalrath · « **Reply #2 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 01:06 am »

anyone use lead and sand combined? what size lead ball, about how much does lead cost, and is there a definite improvement over sand alone?

I have mine filled about 85% filled with sand, but that's the way they came when I bought them.

WEEZ · « **Reply #3 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 02:08 am »

Believe it, or not, mine are filled with low dust kitty litter and work great. Tried this for the hell of it after talking with Noel. Fill 'em right to the top!

WEEZ

mcgsxr · « **Reply #4 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 03:17 am »

I own a set of Atlantis Reference stands, and I filled them up 100% with white silica sand - it does not leak out, and was reasonably priced at a local building supply store. Took about 50lbs to fill both stands.

jrdcesq · « **Reply #5 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 11:32 pm »

Hi:

I filled mine with kitty litter about 3/4 and it works very well.

rosconey · « **Reply #6 on:** 3 Mar 2005, 11:36 pm »

was it dirty or clean cat litter

moray james · « **Reply #7 on:** 4 Mar 2005, 08:30 pm »

I have been involved with Noel at Skylan for years and have used a number of his stands as well as being a small part of some of the inovations Noel uses. I like to use one of those double headed rubber or plastic malets used for furniture construction. I fill the collum with sand and then use the hammer to tap the sand down then fill back up and repeat till I can't get any more sand into the collum. You will be amased at how much sand you can pack in this way. This will add a lot of extra mass and improve damping. Lead shot if mixed with sand will as the heavier aggragit settle to the base of the collum over time. Lead shot will lock up against itself and while it adds mass it does not add any loss which is really what this design is all about. Make sure that the locking nuts on your three spikes are snug so the spike is stable and can not wobble. Snug is all you need or you will spin the insert in the MDF base. If you should strip out the insert you can fix it with some epoxy glue. The point is you don't need a torque wrench to snug the locking nuts. If the stand is mounted on a hard floor set up is a breeze. If the stand is to be on a carpeted floor then you need to insure that the spikes penitate the carpet and underlay compleatly. This will often require a set of needle nose pliers to pull the carpet next to the spike up over the shaft of the spike. This in no way hurts the carpet. If your stand is on a carpeted floor you can check for propper floor contact by putting your hand on top of the speaker and pressing front to back and side to side. If there is any motion of the speaker it is because the stands spikes are not makeing solid contact with the floor beneath the carpet. Sometimes I have placed all my body weight on top of the speaker on the stand (on a carpeted concreat floor) and still the spikes have not gone through the carpet backing. So testing for motion will ensure a perfect set up every time. I know of so many cases where people do not sand fill to mass load and they will never have any idea of just how impressive these stands can be when used as designed. Best regards Moray James.

efm2 · « **Reply #8 on:** 4 Mar 2005, 09:48 pm »

Thank you guys for all the response.
Edwin