What is your favorite amp for planars?

thunderbrick · « **Reply #20 on:** 25 Jul 2020, 11:23 pm »

My go-to amp for decades was a Moscode 300; used it with DQ-10s, ML Quests, Maggie 1.6, even briefly with a borrowed pair of Sound Labs.

It sang on the Maggie 1.6s in a BIG room, but ran out of gas on the Maggie 20.1s. It was good, but something was missing. A local GAS member had a Primare A32 amp for sale, and offered to let me A-B the two amps on his system. Astonishing difference. Bass, depth, width, slam, clarity, you name it, right from the get-go.

It's now in my system running full range (20.1s) and I'm experimenting with two subs (old DQ-1Ws) run from another amp. The difference in the amps in my system vs. his is exactly the same. Vocals are pristine, but maybe just a tad bright. I'll have to play with the HF resistor some time.

It's an 80+ lb. beast!

mijostyn · « **Reply #21 on:** 26 Jul 2020, 12:16 am »

Lynxo, the JC 1 sounds like a very powerful tube amp but with great bass and dynamics. It has the airy, effortless presentation of a class A amp. You would be hard pressed to do better with 20.7's or 3.7i's. You are talking Constellation, Boulder or Atma-Sphere and serious money. I use JC 1s on my Custom electrostatics. No other amp has been able to drive them well. The impedance drops to 1/2 ohm at 20K and the JC 1's just cruise away effortlessly. If you can find a pair for 4-5K I promise it will be the best money you ever spent.
Sound Labs has used JC 1's for demonstrations. It and the Atma-Sphere MA 2 seem to be their favorite amps. I would love to try the Atma-Sphere MA 2's but they are presently beyond my reach. I think they are 45K a pair. New JC 1+'s are 18K a pair. It would be very hard for me to spend more than that. Everything else is way beyond the point of diminishing returns.

eduke55 · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 Jul 2020, 12:26 am »

I'm currently using a Bel Canto E1x integrated amp on my Eminent technology 8bs. It's rated at 180w per channel 8 ohms and it drives the 8bs to 90db+ in a large (240 sq ft) room with no strain or Class D glare. It is "voiced" very well for long term listening, but will reveal weak links in your system from source to cables.

JakeJ · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 Jul 2020, 04:17 am »

Quote from: Lynxo on 25 Jul 2020, 10:27 pm

Hi Jake,

Nice blend

Did you experiment with different brands?
I see Solens, Clarity. Have you tried Jantzens?

You bypassed the fuse for the ribbons?

Hi Lynxo,

I did not make these the previous owner did with some help from Gary Koh Of Genesis fame. I bought them from a member of the Pacific NW Audio Society and Gary is involved with that club. My next step would be active crossover.

No the tweeter fuses are still in the circuit and not using a resistor yet. I'd like to experiment with jumpers made of different metals.

SteveFord · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 Jul 2020, 09:27 am »

Giant VTL mono blocks.
Not the thing for the summer months and you wouldn't want to be carrying them up and down the stairs too often, though.

Lynxo · « **Reply #25 on:** 26 Jul 2020, 10:03 pm »

VTL Monoblocks, $18K a pair, Wow!

I have been reading up on 2 way active crossover to split the low end(40Hz) to subs and the high end to the planars. There is a video on youtube about this. My only thought, what impact would the active crossover have on the sound signature especially if the set up is mostly tube based.

Source—>DAC(tube)—>Active Cross(op amp)—> High/Low Outputs—>Preamp(tube)—>Amp(tube)

I have seen only studio type op amp based active crossover. I actually have one, dbx 223xs but never used it. Just never got there but will
some day. In any case, which active crossover would you consider for your set up, one that would not degrade the sound without breaking the bank.

kmmd · « **Reply #26 on:** 27 Jul 2020, 02:24 pm »

Quote from: Lynxo on 26 Jul 2020, 10:03 pm

I have been reading up on 2 way active crossover to split the low end(40Hz) to subs and the high end to the planars. There is a video on youtube about this. My only thought, what impact would the active crossover have on the sound signature especially if the set up is mostly tube based.

Source—>DAC(tube)—>Active Cross(op amp)—> High/Low Outputs—>Preamp(tube)—>Amp(tube)

I have seen only studio type op amp based active crossover. I actually have one, dbx 223xs but never used it. Just never got there but will
some day. In any case, which active crossover would you consider for your set up, one that would not degrade the sound without breaking the bank.

I cringed when I saw the words op amp. A lot of components out there use op amps to stay within budget. Examples are OPA 2132/2134 and OPA627’s. While the 627’s are better, they still pale in comparison to discrete components. This is why I modded my Marchand to get rid of the stock 2134’s and replace them with Burson Audio V3 and now Vivid V6 ones. Still, the Marchand isn’t a match to my Pass which is a two-boxed, well designed and thought out crossover. It’s not even close.

That being said, going active is not the best option for many. You must take into consideration the added expense of an extra component, interconnects, amp(s) and speaker cables. However, if you are interested, a Bryston crossover may be in your sights. There are some threads on the Audiogon Forums about different crossovers.

Over the years / decade, I’ve learned to get rid of components using op amps and a SMPS (switched mode power supply). I enjoy doing my own mods, and love how my Hakko soldering station warms up in seconds.

BTW, the crossover is placed after your preamp.

Marchand with Burson Vivid V6’s

Pass Labs XVR-1

/mp · « **Reply #27 on:** 27 Jul 2020, 02:29 pm »

Quote from: Lynxo on 26 Jul 2020, 10:03 pm

Source—>DAC(tube)—>Active Cross(op amp)—> High/Low Outputs—>Preamp(tube) —>Amp(tube)

You'll need 2x preamps w/the crossover there. Also, you're locked into a sole source unless your DAC has multiple inputs--in which case it's acting as pre-amp (source selection). The pre-amps only are controlling gain. Is that your intent? I imagine more folks would put the xover post pre:
Source—>DAC(tube)—>Preamp(tube) -->Active Cross(op amp)—> High/Low Outputs—>Amps(tube)

As always YMMV.
Enjoy,

BobM · « **Reply #28 on:** 27 Jul 2020, 02:33 pm »

Using a McCormack DNA500 with my Apogee Duetta Sig's. it's an arc welder of an amp that is just effortless on these demanding speakers.

johnto · « **Reply #29 on:** 6 Aug 2020, 05:18 pm »

I started with Maggie 1.7 and Emo 1L mono blocks which didn't work out well at all a bit grainy sounding and for some reasons amps blew and kept having to be returned, I moved to the Parasound Halo Hint which was a wonderful match for the 1.7. Upgrade fever hit and I went for the 3.7i with a pass 250.8 this is a terrific match and the heat isn't as bad as what people think, you can feel it touching the top of the amp and maybe going up about a foot and a bit on the side heat sinks. I try to allow at least half an hour for the amp to warm up. I think I'm done unless a pair of 20.7 comes up at a can't resist price.

dcbingaman · « **Reply #30 on:** 20 Aug 2020, 09:26 pm »

I agree with Pass amps. I am using a Pass Aleph 5 with my LRS amps. ~100W into the 3 ohm load and sweet single-ended class A. An Aleph 4 might be even better and so I have all the boards (KK Audio) and parts to build a mono block pair form scratch. Keeps me off the streets. ~160W into the 3 ohm load, again single-ended Class A.

twitch54 · « **Reply #31 on:** 21 Aug 2020, 12:35 am »

Agree with PASS (and Plinius), IMO they can do whatever is needed in the world of SS.

tubes, that is for another discussion ........

Craig B · « **Reply #32 on:** 21 Aug 2020, 01:09 pm »

I've never had a ton of money to spend on amps at any time in my 45 years in audiophilia. When I got my first Maggies (MG-1s, purchased new in 1978), I powered them for about 10 years with a GAS Son of Ampzilla. I replaced that with a B&K ST-140, which I loved, and used for the next 10-12 years until I sold the speakers. I got new .7s last September and bought a new amp along with them - an Emotiva BasX A-300. It works great with the .7s, putting out close to 300 wpc into a 4-ohm load. Stable, neutral, seems to have a lot of reserve for punch and dynamics, and a very detailed soundstage. I don't kid myself that it's the be-all, end-all, but I think it punches way the hell above its $400 price point, and it's a much better sounding amp than the old Son and B&K, as good as they were.

rollo · « **Reply #33 on:** 21 Aug 2020, 05:43 pm »

Depends on how low the impedance goes. If dipping down to 2 Ohms not every amp can handle that well. Budget as well matters.

charles

crazywizard73 · « **Reply #34 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 02:50 am »

cayin iha-6 with teac ud-501

DNArtist · « **Reply #35 on:** 20 Oct 2020, 09:58 pm »

Anybody try the Chiro by Kinergetics. I have several and it is GOBS of current!

Tyson · « **Reply #36 on:** 21 Oct 2020, 12:36 am »

Considering that my planars are 97db efficient and a flat 8 ohm load, and only go down to 150 hz (where they are off-loaded to powered OB subs), I can run puny little amps like the single ended pentode Dennis Had Inspire mono blocks which put out 12 watts. Goes very loud and sounds glorious.

JakeJ · « **Reply #37 on:** 21 Oct 2020, 12:58 am »

Quote from: DNArtist on 20 Oct 2020, 09:58 pm

Anybody try the Chiro by Kinergetics. I have several and it is GOBS of current!

Unfortunately I don't thing you'll get too many bites. Kinergetics closed their doors in August 2000.
https://www.stereophile.com/news/10843/index.html.

HappytrailsPC · « **Reply #38 on:** 23 Oct 2020, 11:00 am »

Carver TFM-45 with my LRS.

http://www.carversound.mobi/carver-amplifiers/tfm-45/
When I ordered my LRS Magnepan's comments were oh the LRS will be happy. But you either love or hate Carver gear

I did try a Carver tube similar to the Crimson 275 @100wpc but it lacked the ability to push the LRS. I have tested both a NAD 7100 (my son's) and a Sanyo system 240 just for fun, neither had the ability either

FWIW, I may have one of my TFM-45 up for sale in the future as I do not really need 2

Holderlin99 · « **Reply #39 on:** 24 Oct 2020, 01:19 pm »

An old Classe CA-101A has served me very well on the high end of bi-amped 3.6Rs.