How to "Mute" Rigid Fibreglass Yellow Color?

gravy · « **on:** 24 Feb 2005, 10:59 pm »

Hi guys,

I'm getting a little further along the trek to acoustic nirvana, especially with all the help on this forum.

I've purchased a bunch of rigid fibreglass ceiling panels, removed the backing and stacked the panels to 3" at first reflection and behind the front speakers, and 6" in the front corners for bass trapping.

Anyway - these panels, as you know, are BRIGHT yellow! Is anyone trying to "treat" these before covering with acoustically transparent fabric so that you won't be able to see the yellow through the relatively porous fabric? I know that painting is certainly verboten.

Thanks,
Scott

nathanm · « **Reply #1 on:** 24 Feb 2005, 11:50 pm »

option 1: Lay the panels outside in bright sunlight for a period of three years or more until desired fading is achieved.

option 2: Leave yellow panels as is, allowing them to show through the black fabric. This will be the basis for decorating your room as a shrine to Christian rockers Stryper.

option 3: Use denser fabric or double up on it. The big bad frequencies will find their way in no matter what so it shouldn't be an issue.

Red Dragon Audio · « **Reply #2 on:** 25 Feb 2005, 12:33 am »

click picture.

warnerwh · « **Reply #3 on:** 25 Feb 2005, 03:26 am »

I just use a double thickness of burlap. Works fine and is cheap and easy to work with. Also covering the fiberglass first with some batting first will help keep the little micro particles out of your lungs.

gravy · « **Reply #4 on:** 25 Feb 2005, 02:26 pm »

Quote from: nathanm

option 1: Lay the panels outside in bright sunlight for a period of three years or more until desired fading is achieved.

option 2: Leave yellow panels as is, allowing them to show through the black fabric. This will be the basis for decorating your room as a shrine to Christian rockers Stryper.

option 3: Use denser fabric or double up on it. The big bad frequencies will find their way in no matter what so it shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks guys...hopefully a denser fabric will do the trick.

gravy · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 Mar 2005, 11:47 pm »

Well I completed my treatments - 4" on the backs and first reflection point, and almost 6" for the corner traps. You'd never know there is shocking yellow fibreglass behind the cloth.

Each panel is 2'x2'.

Thanks for the speaker grill cloth tips!

mcgsxr · « **Reply #6 on:** 20 Mar 2005, 12:01 am »

Man that is a tasty setup... well done!

PeteG · « **Reply #7 on:** 20 Mar 2005, 12:31 am »

Scott
Nice room, you did a good job. I’m in the process of making some panels and I had the same problem with the bright yellow fiberglass I put ½” of white poly-fil in front of it so it don’t show thru, I’m covering it with white burlap.

Pete

gravy · « **Reply #8 on:** 20 Mar 2005, 02:22 am »

Thanks guys - hopefully we'll show other folks how easy it really is!

(Although I did have a bud with a table saw which helped out immensely...)

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #9 on:** 20 Mar 2005, 07:22 am »

Very slick work, Gravy!

Although I cringe when I see that huge flat glass table right in front of the sweet spot!

gravy · « **Reply #10 on:** 20 Mar 2005, 02:38 pm »

Quote from: Rob Babcock

Very slick work, Gravy! Although I cringe when I see that huge flat glass table right in front of the sweet spot!

lol - Good point RB ...

My flat ceiling can't be helping me much either, but I'll have to live with it for now.

I'll definitely be consulting you all for Round 2 of treatments!

Red Dragon Audio · « **Reply #11 on:** 21 Mar 2005, 05:24 am »

Lookin' good there gravy!!

So what do you think of the treated room now?

gravy · « **Reply #12 on:** 21 Mar 2005, 03:21 pm »

Quote from: heavystarch

Lookin' good there gravy!!

So what do you think of the treated room now?

Thanks Starch! I think the bass traps are the biggest improvement - I no longer get "rumbing, rattling bass". Low Bass seems clearer now - I'm able to distinguish more notes down low. I find overall clarity has improved quite a bit, and I thought it was pretty good before.

Also, the side benefit of having more black in the room has helped tame ambient light spill and really helps my picture quality!

nathanm · « **Reply #13 on:** 21 Mar 2005, 03:48 pm »

So Gravy have you noticed any cancerous lesions forming on your lungs and fingers yet? That fiberglass is a one way ticket to an early grave you know!

No but seriously, that is one nice looking room! I like the soffit-mounted rack thingy, very slick. I also like how the corner panels go from floor to ceiling, making for an even visual line.

gravy · « **Reply #14 on:** 21 Mar 2005, 04:54 pm »

Quote from: nathanm

So Gravy have you noticed any cancerous lesions forming on your lungs and fingers yet? That fiberglass is a one way ticket to an early grave you know! No but seriously, that is one nice looking room! I like the soffit-mounted rack thingy, very slick. I also like how the corner panels go from floor to ceiling, making for an even visual line.

I keep the lesions at bay with healthy doses of scotch. Its a difficult balance to maintain but I'm a pro.

But truthfully, I think I finally stopped scratching about a day ago...MAN i hate working with fibreglass.

Campindog · « **Reply #15 on:** 12 Apr 2005, 03:43 am »

Great job! Dumb question, but how did you attach the panels flat to the wall w/o showing any hardware? stacking 2' x2' panels was not done with picture wire.

Can you tell I'm gonna build some soon?

gravy · « **Reply #16 on:** 13 Apr 2005, 03:55 pm »

Quote from: Campindog

Great job! Dumb question, but how did you attach the panels flat to the wall w/o showing any hardware? stacking 2' x2' panels was not done with picture wire.

Can you tell I'm gonna build some soon?

Not a dumb question at all, Campin! You're right, no picture wire here. I wanted a solid wall connection that would resist vibrating, but also hold the weight of the 2x2 panel.

I used a "French cleat" setup, which uses a couple of pieces of strapping with 45 degree bevels cut into them to fit together. One mounts to the wall (preferably to a stud), and the other is mounted into the back of the panel. I used a french cleat for each individual 2x2 panel. I measured and mounted the wall cleats first, then used a nail gun to attach the top and bottom 2x2 panels together to form one 4' unit just prior to hanging.

(Pics courtesy of: www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html - These are NOT my pics or panels...)

Wall Cleat -

Part that attaches to back frame of panel:

As the 45's are inverted, they snug into each other very easily and actually pull the panel towards the wall.

Hope that helps - if you want I can take pictures of my in-home setup to better illustrate - those pics were the result of a quick search!

Campindog · « **Reply #17 on:** 15 Apr 2005, 12:30 pm »

Very cool. Makes total sense. Thanks!

CJ Paul · « **Reply #18 on:** 17 May 2005, 03:33 pm »

I'm interested in how you hung the corner panels myself. Any advice?

Kevin P · « **Reply #19 on:** 17 May 2005, 04:04 pm »

Quote from: CJ Paul

I'm interested in how you hung the corner panels myself. Any advice?

It's pretty simple. I just use a screw on both sides and hang my panels like a picture. If you keep the frame simple and light it works like a charm and you can stack them the entire length of the corner by hanging multiple 4' panels.