[Bark]

Hi,

I have a new to me BDA-1 that was operating perfectly.  Then, during some home maintenance where I was replacing some standard light switches to dimmable LED light switches and turning breakers off to determine which room was off, the BDA-1 red colored standby light went off at some point in time, I noticed later in the day.  That's strange, I thought.  Neither the BDP-1 nor the BDA-1 were actively powered on at the time.  (Next time, I thought, maybe I'll turn off the power bar.)  Nevertheless, I recognized that the internal fuse was blown, so I purchased a replacement.  In fact, I ordered two.  Both fuses have blown instantly when connected to utility power.  The first one enabled the standby light to turn on.  But, when I moved the BDA-1 to its listening shelf, it blew the fuse instantly after connecting the power to utility.  It didn't get to the point I could even turn the BDA on.  The fuse that was in the device originally was a hifi tuning fuse, so someone in the past may have needed to change the fuse.  The only other item could be some influence from the XLR cable connecting the BDP-1 and BDA-1.  Could that have an effect?

Is there any value trying a slow fuse at the same rating?  The factory is 250V/250mA, which is what I tried. 

Digikey has the following slow burn version, but its 220V/250mA, but I'm in Calgary, operating at 120VAC:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/7030.3250/486-4786-ND/1731142/?itemSeq=323889959

Alternatively, I could put a slightly higher rated fuse, I think the next one up was 310mA.  I read a thread on Audiocircle where the 220-240VAC fuses were originally rated at 125mA and were adjusted to 160mA.  Given, that 160mA x 2 = 320mA, maybe the 250mA is marginal on power up.

In lieu of that, I guess the only recourse is to send it for service.  But, my gut feeling is the device is fine, just something with initial power connection. 

Thanks kindly for any advice,
Aaron

[James Tanner]

Hi,

I have a new to me BDA-1 that was operating perfectly.  Then, during some home maintenance where I was replacing some standard light switches to dimmable LED light switches and turning breakers off to determine which room was off, the BDA-1 red colored standby light went off at some point in time, I noticed later in the day.  That's strange, I thought.  Neither the BDP-1 nor the BDA-1 were actively powered on at the time.  (Next time, I thought, maybe I'll turn off the power bar.)  Nevertheless, I recognized that the internal fuse was blown, so I purchased a replacement.  In fact, I ordered two.  Both fuses have blown instantly when connected to utility power.  The first one enabled the standby light to turn on.  But, when I moved the BDA-1 to its listening shelf, it blew the fuse instantly after connecting the power to utility.  It didn't get to the point I could even turn the BDA on.  The fuse that was in the device originally was a hifi tuning fuse, so someone in the past may have needed to change the fuse.  The only other item could be some influence from the XLR cable connecting the BDP-1 and BDA-1.  Could that have an effect?

Is there any value trying a slow fuse at the same rating?  The factory is 250V/250mA, which is what I tried. 

Digikey has the following slow burn version, but its 220V/250mA, but I'm in Calgary, operating at 120VAC:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/7030.3250/486-4786-ND/1731142/?itemSeq=323889959

Alternatively, I could put a slightly higher rated fuse, I think the next one up was 310mA.  I read a thread on Audiocircle where the 220-240VAC fuses were originally rated at 125mA and were adjusted to 160mA.  Given, that 160mA x 2 = 320mA, maybe the 250mA is marginal on power up.

In lieu of that, I guess the only recourse is to send it for service.  But, my gut feeling is the device is fine, just something with initial power connection. 

Thanks kindly for any advice,
Aaron

Hi Aaron

Check with Mike on this - mpickett@bryston.com

james

[Speedskater]

I would get a "Kill-a-Watt" AC power line meter, and check the line voltage on many of the AC outlets in your home. You many be developing a 'lost Neutral' problem.
a 'lost Neutral' problem causes some of the outlets to have very high voltages and others to have very low voltages. These reading will change with what (120V) appliances are in operation.

[Bark]

Hi Aaron

Check with Mike on this - mpickett@bryston.com

james

Will do, thanks kindly!

[Bark]

I would get a "Kill-a-Watt" AC power line meter, and check the line voltage on many of the AC outlets in your home. You many be developing a 'lost Neutral' problem.
a 'lost Neutral' problem causes some of the outlets to have very high voltages and others to have very low voltages. These reading will change with what (120V) appliances are in operation.

Ok, there is a power bar in play here.  I'll check neutral to ground on it.  I'm not having issues with any other devices connected to the power bar.  But, anything is possible.  Thanks for your suggestion.

[Bark]

I forgot to report back that this worked perfectly in my case.  Thanks to Bryston for the support on answering this question, it was greatly appreciated!