[DonMcG]

I noticed in the photos of the X-static that the front and back baffles go all the way down to the floor. The PDF indicates that the back baffle only goes down only to the top of the woofer enclosure. Does it matter or is the PDF the correct design?

Thanks

[Keithh]

I used a 1-1/2" baffle all the way down and just glued it to the front of the cabinet.
Seemed a lot easier to build that way and just can't see any reason to build it the way
the plans show other than saving a little bit of wood.
Actually the 1-1/2" baffle is 36" with a 3/4" x10" piece at the bottom so the face of the
baffle is out 3/4" from the bottom part of the cabinet. I was kind of going for a Salk speaker look.
 

[DonMcG]

The speakers look great.
Thanks for the reply.

Don McGinlay

[Chops]

It also looks to be the way the original X-Statik's were built as well. The front baffle is one solid piece of 1.5" all the way down to the base (plinth), and bolted to the bass enclosure, as well as glued. You can see the thickness here in the speaker opening as well as on the very bottom of the speaker with the plinth removed. They are a very stout, well built loudspeaker. Even the side walls and rear panel are chunky 1".






And just as a side note, here you can tell I have the early version of the X-Statik as they came with "real" binding posts and not those cheapy plastic terminal cups that the later ones and current kits come with. Also, my X-Voce was a later model (though only purchased a month or so later) and came with that plastic terminal cup. The binding posts on those cups really suck. Sorry, but it's true. I still have that X-Voce. It's stored in my old bedroom in the house I grew up in. The absolute BEST center channel I've ever heard, period.

[corndog71]

Just seeing that last pic brings back memories of all the scrapes and cuts all over my hands from scraping that crap out of several X-series speakers built by AV123.  I didn't even bother for my Statiks.  I just upgraded the crossovers.

[Chops]

Just seeing that last pic brings back memories of all the scrapes and cuts all over my hands from scraping that crap out of several X-series speakers built by AV123.  I didn't even bother for my Statiks.  I just upgraded the crossovers.

Exactly. Even with a putty knife, I had to get in there with my bare hands to pick and tear a lot of that crud out of there. A bunch of scraped up knuckles, sore finger tips, cracked/split finger nails, etc, etc. It took more time to remove that crud out of just one enclosure than it did to upgrade both crossovers from start to finish.

I tell you what though, installing that No-Rez was well worth it. It greatly improved the speed, tautness and detail in the upper bass and mid-bass. The bass didn't get any deeper, but due to the improvements just mentioned, the X-Statik's became more visceral, impactful, and definitely more "up to speed" with the open baffle section, making it a more complete package from top to bottom.

If I had to do it all over again and go through all of the pain and aggravation again, I most certainly would.

If you're still using your X-Statik's, I'd highly recommend doing the No-Rez. These speakers definitely benefit from it in a big way.

[Danny Richie]

I noticed in the photos of the X-static that the front and back baffles go all the way down to the floor. The PDF indicates that the back baffle only goes down only to the top of the woofer enclosure. Does it matter or is the PDF the correct design?

Thanks

You can do it either way.

[Captainhemo]

For all you  guys  using the   OEM  binding posts,  I'd  recommend  making a nice  little  panel to cover  the hole up and install the   tube connectors.  They're  a cheap upgrade and shouldn't  be overlooked

jay

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Out of curiosity, why don't the X-Static have inner side wings like those in the NX line? Would there be any benefit to adding one?

[MrBoyks]

Just ordered my X-Static kit and have a couple of questions about the cabinet build.  This is the first project beyond bookshelves and desk organizers for me.  I have bought a router and circle jig for cutting the speaker holes.  The plans say to radius the holes and I am not sure what that means.  I am considering a single 1.5” nicer wood for speaker front and getting a 1/2” router bit to round the edges.  I believe that I need a straight 1/4” bit for the circle jig.  Any thoughts on 1/2” vs 1/4” shank size on the bits?  My router will do both.

[mlundy57]

Just ordered my X-Static kit and have a couple of questions about the cabinet build.  This is the first project beyond bookshelves and desk organizers for me.  I have bought a router and circle jig for cutting the speaker holes.  The plans say to radius the holes and I am not sure what that means.  I am considering a single 1.5” nicer wood for speaker front and getting a 1/2” router bit to round the edges.  I believe that I need a straight 1/4” bit for the circle jig.  Any thoughts on 1/2” vs 1/4” shank size on the bits?  My router will do both.

I always go for 1/2" shanks when available, they're sturdier. However, smaller diameter bits don't always have 1/2" shanks. A 1/4" bit with a 1/4" shank is fine. All my 1/4" bits have 1/4" shanks.

To cut a radius you use a either a roundover or round under bit. If you cut the radius on the backside of the woofer openings before gluing the baffle on you use a roundover bit from the back side of the baffle. If you glue the baffle on before cutting the radius, you have to use a roundunder bit. Roundunder bits are considerably more expensive than roundover bits and, in my area, have to be special ordered.

You can cut the holes with a straight bit but I prefer an upcut spiral bit. Especially if you have a dust collector or shop vac connected to the router.

[MrBoyks]

So Am I correct in saying that, for the top two speaker holes in the plans, that the diameter of the front of the hole is 5.75” and the back of the hole has a radius that is 1/2” to 3/4” larger?  Or is it larger at front?  Is that change straight (linear) or curved?

[goggle1824]

mlundy, which are your currently preferred router/upspiral bits?

[mlundy57]

mlundy, which are your currently preferred router/upspiral bits?

Either Whiteside or Freud carbide bits

[AlexH]

So Am I correct in saying that, for the top two speaker holes in the plans, that the diameter of the front of the hole is 5.75” and the back of the hole has a radius that is 1/2” to 3/4” larger?  Or is it larger at front?  Is that change straight (linear) or curved?

Yes the top two woofer holes are 5.75" and you put a 1/2" or 3/4' round over on the backside of you baffle.

[goggle1824]

Either Whiteside or Freud carbide bits

Thanks!

[MrBoyks]

Thank you.  The pictures cleared things up for me nicely.

[Captainhemo]

and, it's good practice to put  a large roundover  on the rear side of  any mid woofer  coutout whether it be in these , monitors, or whatever it maybe.    We even include them on the rear of ouir   H-Frame baffles

jay

[sonofholhorse]

Thanks to everyone for their tips in this thread! I had a couple more questions if anyone would be willing to share, since I'm building a kit and this is the first build that I've ever done:
1. On the diagram for the cabinet plans, there is a layer above the "base" with the same visual appearance as the "C" braces that has no label and specifies as a good place for the crossover; is this an additional brace, or just a visual indicator? If it is an additional brace, does it need a cutout to fit the crossover up-and-through with a removable base?
2. When running the wiring from the Mid drivers on the top half of the baffle, how do you route the wires into the sealed base? Is it better to hollow out channels inside the rear of the front baffle, or should one drill holes in the top of the 'slanted' top board and seal them after installation?
3. If adding No-Rez to the interior of the cabinet, what would be the ideal spots for placement? Just front, back and top between the braces or all sides?

[goggle1824]

All good questions and I have yet to do a GR Research build but am following to learn in anticipation of my own build. Thanks for asking these.