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Thinking of buying two plate amps for this (got a passive pre and an SET tube amplifier at 18watts for the full range mids) eq and crossover to be handled by dsp.I can be happy at an average loudness of 85dbIf the grs subs are really on the money for this setup i can allocate some of the funds for an amp so Im open to any suggestions that can handle the low end pretty well. Are the GRS subs articulate if I cross them at 200-300hz and aim for them to reach flat to at least 40to45hz?Just read somewhere about a minimum QTS value to follow for OB?
With plate amps, the DSP requirements become minimal, as there are some with built in bass boost that will compensate nicely for the LF roll off /baffle loss. The PE Yung line with 6db bass boost are also budget friendly. The only wild card would be their low pass filters are 200hz max, but that is electrical. The combined electro-acoustic filter response will be higher, but 300hz might be cutting it close, even with a flat baffle (the best for symmetrical upper end response).cheers,AJ
Hi! Does this mean I have to cross the fullrange driver to at least 150hz? Thanks Again!
Hearhead,Here are 2xGRS10sw-4 on a smallish 12"w x 30"h flat baffle, driven by a Yung SD200-6 (6+ db boost at 35Hz). No DSP eq, measured at 1m, plate amp low pass filter at max 200hz.You should be able to cross a 8" fullrange >200hzcheers,AJ
AJ - those GRS drivers are 4 ohm. Does that Yung amp handle a ~2 ohm load or did you wire them in series for an 8 ohm load?
these https://www.parts-express.com/grs-10sw-4-10-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-482.The pole vent is a bit small but a pair in series is an easy amp load and the 8.5mm xmax might be sufficient unless you need fairly high SPL.
The thing with plate amps is you would need to build enclosures for them. You don't want the back exposed anywhere someone could stick their finger on it.Another possible option: old AV receiver with analog inputs. Nobody wants 'em but the amps are still good. Then you would use one channel per driver. The GRS driver needs about 60W to Xmax at 40 Hz (according to unibox).Just a thought - as they are likely around cheap or possibly even free. May take a bit more work to locate a good one (analog input, decent power, won't blow up with 4 ohm load).
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