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I have had good luck using baffles made of constrained layers. Instead of 3/4" plywood for example, use three layers of 1/4" ply separated by damping sheets (roofing felt, etc.) and bonded with green glue (viscoelastic compound). Once the raw boards are glued, clamped, and cured, I then proceed to cut baffles from the newly created stock. Some of the autosound companies offer exotic damping materials that convert vibration into heat. They can be very expensive and I have found only a small difference in performance between those materials and roofing felt from Home Depot. If you opt for the type with adhesive on one side (peel-n-stick) you can save some time, but don't omit the green glue altogether. As for the exposed surfaces of the baffles, I have always preferred them to be untreated in OB.
Yes its a topic which is not discussed much. Aside from cork I have seen the use of felt, but is it just cosmetic?
Not cosmetic, felt attenuates the hi freq.Baffle treatment are restrict to external side, I have never see a internal baffle treated as it is said it sound better untreated_non stuffed. What you can do inside aside stuffing is paint black all the speaker inside for less resonances.
How about something like this, applied to the rear of the baffle (self adhesive) ? https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-2-acoustic-sound-damping-foam-with-psa-18-x-24--260-520
I suppose one could mount one's drivers on a thin sub-baffle above the main baffle with an acoustic absorbent layer in between. This would help isolate vibrations being transmitted to the main baffle.Possibly rubber matting glued to the sub-baffle might be useful here with the corners of the sub-baffle being fixed to the main baffle with screws.Any sound improvement would come from the isolation of bass frequencies vibrating the main panel. Physical time alignment is also a possibility with different sub-baffles for the woofer and the midrange, with the tweeter mounted on the main baffle. I might give this a shot when I get the time.C.M