Newbie question for all to laugh at

denverdoc · « **on:** 2 Dec 2004, 02:00 am »

Thinking about buildinng a line array, and for various reasons, want to relieve the stress on the baffle, and connect the drivers by their butt ends. Can one drill into the back plate magnet structure and strap them to a non-magnetic alloy like brass, can one screw into them period w/o dire results? In other words besides epoxy and wood, how can one keep them together as a single unit?

EchiDna · « **Reply #1 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 02:05 am »

you have a specific driver in mind? that way we can take a look at a tech drawing and see how or if a hole drilled into the magnet structure will hit or miss the important bits

also, what are you trying to solve by reducing the strain on the baffle? just make the baffle thicker/stronger??

warnerwh · « **Reply #2 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 02:28 am »

Ask this over at http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/index.html
They have alot of good knowledge available.

denverdoc · « **Reply #3 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 02:29 am »

I/m simpling looking for a concept--thougt about rigid stringers embracing the magnets or an I beam screwed to the back of the drivers, etc. My goal is to decouple them mechanically from the front baffle yet keep those pups in line.
Drillo seargent,
J

JohnR · « **Reply #4 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 11:08 am »

Given that the magnet structure is held together with glue anyway, I think I would try gluing the back of the magnet to something rigid. Might be worth a couple of cheap drivers as an experiment.

Here's a pic from the Linkwitz site, it looks like he has some sort of clamp around the magnet:

http://linkwitzlab.com/orion-rev1.htm

JoshK · « **Reply #5 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 02:53 pm »

I like John's idea of glue or clamping better than drilling but really I have no idea if drilling would work, just seems like if it didn't you'd be out expensive drivers.

denverdoc · « **Reply #6 on:** 2 Dec 2004, 05:07 pm »

Thanks for all the tips:

Echidna, yes worries about the stress on the front baffle along with more about flexing--for cosmetic and acoustic impedance reasons, want to keep the baffle back uncluttered as possible, and given its gotta be pretty wide to begin with for dipolar operation and the drivers basically abutting each other, thinking even 1 inch mdf is gonna flex at the isthmuses or do I just make a huge serpentine cut and try to fill in the gaps with some spray insulation?

Also thought about perpendicular wood bracing between the cutouts, but to keep the center to center distance at 6 inches or so, even that can't be too thick with the SEAS drivers I/m considering, or even too deep--maybe metal would be better.

And I did check out the link to linkwitz--some say the sound was improved pretty significantly by eliminating mechanical coupling to the baffle. And a good idea as to the cheap drivers--got get some long setting aerospace epoxy I use for rocketry i can try.

Thanks to all.