[DarqueKnight]

@James Tanner

Questions about the BP-26:

1. What material is the BP-26's knobs made of (metal?, plastic?)?

2. Why were toggle switches used on the BP-26 and MPS-2 rather than push buttons? I assume there is some mechanical durability and/or noise performance benefit?

3. There is about 1mm of play in the input selector knob. Why was this configuration used with a very long shaft between the knob and the selector mechanism?

4. Why was it decided not to use an input selector that would work with the remote?

5. I assume there are some parts and circuit differences between the current BP-26s and those made over 10 years ago. Would you provide a summary of the changes?

Thanks.

[amblin]

@James Tanner

Questions about the BP-26:

1. What material is the BP-26's knobs made of (metal?, plastic?)?

2. Why were toggle switches used on the BP-26 and MPS-2 rather than push buttons? I assume there is some mechanical durability and/or noise performance benefit?

3. There is about 1mm of play in the input selector knob. Why was this configuration used with a very long shaft between the knob and the selector mechanism?

4. Why was it decided not to use an input selector that would work with the remote?

5. I assume there are some parts and circuit differences between the current BP-26s and those made over 10 years ago. Would you provide a summary of the changes?

Thanks.

Regarding the input selector, I assume the mechanical design was supposed to provide the best possible contact area, least noise and resistance.

But infact the large contacts in the mechanism were rather prone to oxidation especially in humid environment and in time this could affect sound quality and even functionality.  The selector in my BP26 became slightly oxidated after 6 years which caused significant interference in the right channel and led to several days of painful trouble shooting before I finally found the cause.

In short, if you can hear slight hissing while rotating the knob, check the inside for signs of oxidation.  A few quick shots of CRC contact cleaner will fix it in no time.

[James Tanner]

@James Tanner

Questions about the BP-26:

1. What material is the BP-26's knobs made of (metal?, plastic?)?

2. Why were toggle switches used on the BP-26 and MPS-2 rather than push buttons? I assume there is some mechanical durability and/or noise performance benefit?

3. There is about 1mm of play in the input selector knob. Why was this configuration used with a very long shaft between the knob and the selector mechanism?

4. Why was it decided not to use an input selector that would work with the remote?

5. I assume there are some parts and circuit differences between the current BP-26s and those made over 10 years ago. Would you provide a summary of the changes?

Thanks.

Hi

1. Metal - aluminium

2. No the toggles were popular when the 26 was designed so no performance difference.

3. The closer the switch is to the backboard rear panel the shorter the signal path between the difference sources.

4. No real changes other than some parts are used now as others parts get discontinued - ex - capacitors , resistors etc.

james

[amblin]

Hi

1. Metal - aluminium

2. No the toggles were popular when the 26 was designed so no performance difference.

3. The closer the switch is to the backboard rear panel the shorter the signal path between the difference sources.

4. No real changes other than some parts are used now as others parts get discontinued - ex - capacitors , resistors etc.

james

Hi James



There's interference in the right channel when I turn the input knob, which sounded exactly like when there's a bad connection to the HF channel of the speaker. 

I found some slight oxidation on the four yellow PCBs . I already cleaned it with plastic safe CO contact cleaner, but I fear there's still some inside the clear plastic which can not be reached without disassembly, should I take it to the dealer or simply 'wash' it more throughly ?

A

[James Tanner]

Hi

I would email Mike and see what he recommends. Mpickett@bryston.com

James

[amblin]

Hi

I would email Mike and see what he recommends. Mpickett@bryston.com

James

Thanks. I washed it again with CRC CO contact cleaner, HUGE improvement. No more interference and hissing. 



--------
The trick is to use only short bursts so there's no condensing and tilt the case slightly And turn the knob repeatly so the solvent can reach all the printed circuits before drying out.

It's quite scary to see all the liquid running around the parts but it'll dry out in a few seconds and there's no residue.

[James Tanner]

Thanks. I washed it again with CRC CO contact cleaner, HUGE improvement. No more interference and hissing. 



--------
The trick is to use only short bursts so there's no condensing and tilt the case slightly And turn the knob repeatly so the solvent can reach all the printed circuits before drying out.

It's quite scary to see all the liquid running around the parts but it'll dry out in a few seconds and there's no residue.

Great news - thanks for letting me know.

james