[schmidtmike76]

Guys if you dont mind me chiming in.  I have a dedicated electrical outlet to the breaker box just for my stereo.  This is off but honest, every time the deep freeze kicks in and or I turn a light on or off in the mud room where the break box is my dac will shut down to red stereo will stop and then come back on.  The stereo is in my basement about 15 feet from that room fyi would a BIT help

[Armaegis]

The deep freeze isn't too surprising since it likely has a huge inrush current when it turns on, which can cause pretty wild voltage sags. I can't speak for the BIT helping there though, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. (though I'd guess the answer falls into a big "maybe" as it depends how heavily your freezer draws on the current)

The light in the mudroom is concerning though; a simple light shouldn't be causing that much fluctuation. It especially shouldn't when turning off. Can you check that the wiring is all proper in that room?

How about a vacuum? Does turning on a vacuum cause the same audio drop out?

[James Tanner]

Guys if you dont mind me chiming in.  I have a dedicated electrical outlet to the breaker box just for my stereo.  This is off but honest, every time the deep freeze kicks in and or I turn a light on or off in the mud room where the break box is my dac will shut down to red stereo will stop and then come back on.  The stereo is in my basement about 15 feet from that room fyi would a BIT help

Hi

The BIT AVR version should prevent voltage fluctuations.

james

[schmidtmike76]

Thanks James as always.

[Big Audio]

I do perfectly understand that power conditioners condition (filter) the filthy power signal coming into our audio rooms.  I also do understand that why we audiophiles throw away the stock power cords and purchase super duper power cords that are supposed to filter the power signal coming into our audio rooms.  If the two devices are performing the same function, why buy both? There may be a cumulative benefit, but is the "marginal" benefit of having both as opposed to having one worth the exorbitant cost?  Alternatively, if the power conditioner does its job well, couldn't we just use the stock power cord from the power conditioner to the audio component?  All thoughts will be appreciated.

 Good Power conditioners filter out while well built Power cords, interconnects, and speaker cables protect EMI, RFI, and digital noise from getting back into the system.
Thats why adding the last high end cable to replace a stock cable has such a huge effect on the whole system.

(Edit) Also if you don't believe high end cable make a difference just try replacing your stock duplex electrical outlet @$3.00 with a Hubbell duplex @ $16.00

[Bob2]

Good Cables can help. I use only power cables from Specific Dynamics. They provide the best shielding and insure all that power is sent to my audio gear. The 12 gauge power cables with the Wattgate connectors work as well as any I have tried..

[G Georgopoulos]

Yes there can be isolated situations with power line problems, but most audiophiles that chose well designed hi-fi equipment should not have to resort to power conditioners or exotic power cords.

excellent post Kevin
lot's of misinformation here

[Big Audio]

Something dangerous to my pocketbook then happened, I started actually listening to those type of products in spite of my belief system. There was no doubt that power conditioning products had the capacity to change the character of an audio system.

So true. Its fascinating how denial and its commensurate belief systems can kick in especially when it comes to money.

Its also tragic how much enjoyment is missed and great electronics not fully enjoyed.

[werd]

very well put. i never sad power conditioning is not helpful. i work in  a physics lab and a lot of our sensitive measuring equipment wouldn't functoin right without power conditioning. Im saying power cord doesnt fix anything that is broken, which should be obvious to everyone one except maybe someone who gets his info from the MIT cable brochure.

That is the problem, the stock power cable is broken. You ever look at one lately? They are almost certainly 3 prong plated with nickel (usually more nickel than copper) those are the prongs and extends also to the conductors inside. Cut that cable in half you will still see the nickel over copper. Generic cabling made with copper conductors and gold plated copper connects is no longer a reality. The shielding will be some mixture  of plastic and rubber  that will feel like more like garbage than a power cable.

[*Scotty*]

Really doubt that the conductors in the power-cord itself is plated with nickel and here's why. Copper is $2.2159 USD/lb and nickel is $4.2799USD/lb as of May 3, 2016
See links below
http://www.kitcometals.com/charts/copper_historical_large.html
http://www.kitcometals.com/charts/nickel_historical_large.html
Nickel is primarily used for corrosion resistance on the plugs in a power-cord and has no real application as a plating on the conductor inside an extruded insulating jack which rather effectively protects the conductor from the environment.
An easy test can be made using a neodymium magnet. Nickel plated metal such as copper or brass are not normally attracted by a magnet. If a nickel plating is suspected the object in question should be weakly attracted by a neodymium magnet.
Scotty

[werd]

Yes you are right, I meant solid core off any transformer into an outlet.

[Armaegis]

If you see a silver sheen on your cut copper wires, it is very likely tin or something along those lines to make it easier to solder.

[Marius]

Thank you Armaegis,


2 meters, that might indeed be of assistance, maybe anyone on the board has had experience with these?


Quackery or not, at least the Stetzer is certified by the government of Kazakhstan https://www.stetzerelectric.com/store/stetzerizer-microsurge-meter/


EMI should be measurable if it really causes so much problems, then again, I've had no issues at all (that i know of) so maybe shouldn't worry.

Cheers,
Marius

I have no affiliation with either of these guys, and have zero experience with their products:
http://www.stetzerelectric.com/
http://www.greenwavefilters.com/
But these two as far as I know are the two main commercially available EMI detectors and filters in the US. Note that they deal more specifically with emitted electrical noise, not what's necessarily in the power line itself.

Some of it feels like it starts to veer in quackery, but hey that's for you to decide. Numbers and beeping machines make for convincing arguments when you don't truly know the meaning behind them.

I don't know of anyone who's tried this stuff or seen how it relates to audio. Who wants to volunteer for the greater good? 

[werd]

No, no, and no. I suggest you edit your post, and I'll edit this one to remove so a blatantly untrue post.

This represents a complete non-understanding of how things like mutual inductance, shielding, capacitance, resistance, EMI, etc...

Here's something to start your education on the subject.

Haha that made me laugh.

[Big Audio]

Its all about signal to noise.
 To call high end cables and power conditioners voodoo is silly.
 Special shielding, air tubes, conductors, special geometries, etc  all help.
Amps and other gear can help too

[werd]

Its all about signal to noise.
 To call it high end cables and power conditioners voodoo is silly.
 Special shielding, air tubes, conductors, special geometries, etc  all help.
Amps and other gear can help too

Signal to noise is valid but it's about power response. Power response and applying connects to a conductor and what that brings. The best response scenario you will ever find is by taking a power cable hardwired at the amp and then taking the outlet out, cutting off the male prongs on the power cable and tieing the conductors right to house wire. That is your reference scenario Beats anything you can buy. Unrealistic to most but it will tell you what the reference sound is and what you want to attain with a normal cable.

[Armaegis]

Also try not to share the same circuit as whatever your fridge (or other high draw appliance) is plugged into. Shut off any CFL/LED lights. Remove as many wall-warts as you can find. It is far far better to remove or isolate from the sources of noise than use magic boxes to "fix" it.

[Big Audio]

Signal to noise is valid but it's about power response. Power response and applying connects to a conductor and what that brings. The best response scenario you will ever find is by taking a power cable hardwired at the amp and then taking the outlet out, cutting off the male prongs on the power cable and tieing the conductors right to house wire. That is your reference scenario Beats anything you can buy. Unrealistic to most but it will tell you what the reference sound is and what you want to attain with a normal cable.

Power response is huge you are right. Thats why Bryston are such great amps.  The main power cords from the wall to the power conditioner then to the amp should be your best. Fast, agile and generous power is an important part of the signal.

[rmurray]

  For sure,that's where I feel the effect in having such power cords lie